I tried to do a search (and I did) and couldn't find a thing on how to do this or why I can't get the brakes to bleed on the Cavy.
As most know, I've got the Wilwood fronts with the Neon rear discs but upon all this changing of the brakes, ran the brake fluid dry in the car.
So now I'm in the middle of bleeding the brakes which I have no issue in doing with either gravity bleeding or using a vacuum device to draw out the fluid for each caliper.
But I've got an issue with the ABS module in that it will only allow the drivers side front caliper to fully bleed and the rear passenger caliper to bleed properly.
The other two will not bleed but only blow air through no matter how much I try to draw out the air or gravity bleed those calipers.
So I went to the two bleed bolts in the abs module, following the GM Service manuals advise with starting with the rear, and working it to the front bleed screw and again, nothing but air with just a little bit of fluid spitting but nothing flowing.
I've also read that I'd have to crank the car, drive it so that the abs module can click the abs solenoids to a top position so that they can be bled but the situation I'm is says I can't do this at the moment.
I also don't have a scan tool to be able to cycle the solenoids so that the fluid can flow through.
Now I've thought about switching the solenoid connections to see if that would work but not yet.
So I'm seeing if any of you have done this and what you did to accomplish this feat.
Thanks'
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
according to my haynes manual "start the engine and let it run for 10 seconds. watch the abs light - it should turn off after 3 seconds or so.
Warning:
if the light doesn't go off, a GM tech 1 scan tool must be connected to diagnose the problem. have the vehicle towed to a dealer service department or other repair shop equipped with the necessary tool. if the light rutned off like it is supposed to, turn the ignition off and repeat the procedure. if the light goes off again after 3 seconds the brakes can now be bled. " that's a direct quote from my haynes manual i got sitting rite next to me. it then goes on to tell you to bleed the abs module, starting with the rear most bleeder valve, then the front, then bleed (in your case) the calipers regularly.
i had to do this to my car a few months back, i let the master go dry after sittign for a month or so with no rear brakes on at all, and i had to follow that whole crap. everything worked out well, and i wound up not having to bleed the fronts at all, but i did this to my car on factory brakes, bleeding the module is the same as bleeding the rest of the brakes, pump the pedal, hold pressure, open valve yada yada yada. its just one extra step before actually getting to do it.
good luck blu, hope that helps
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 26, 2009 9:06 PM
damn. this does not sound fun.
and considering my car has been sitting for like 8 months without ANY brakes whatsoever... this could suck.
*listening
Familiar Taste of Poison.
Thanks Jon.
I was going to give this a try next but since the car is on jack stands, it can't exactly be driven.
But, I'm going to put the car in drive while on the stands to maybe simulate the driving and see what happens.
Hopefully it'll go good for me this weekend and I'm able to bleed the brakes.
And f*ck having to take the car to a dealership or service shop. If I can't do this myself, I'll crush the car.
Not really. lol
Brad, I'll let you know what happens with it after this weekend.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
when i did it the car didnt really have to move, just kinda idle for a few seconds. as long as the ABS light goes off theres no problems. what i did was filled the master like a day before and left the bleeders open (for me it was only the rear) to kinda gravity bleed em at least a little bit, this way the lines weren't completely dry, i guess it helped? lol. i had no problems so i cant really say otherwise, and it was really a walk in the park with a buddy helping me bleed even with bleeding the abs module. the one good thing is that unless the bleeder's on the module have been completely butchered in the past, they're out of the elements, so they were nice and easy to crack loose
and i agree about having to take your car somewhere to have the ABS code read. i probably would've pushed it off a cliff if something wouldve happened. lol. good luck 'blu.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, August 27, 2009 8:48 PM
Thanks Jon.
I'm going to have a chance Saturday after work to crank the car and give it a shot.
Once that's done, I'll see if it bleeds from the abs module and then go from there.
Thanks for all the advice people.
This should reinforce what I already read about it and hopefully get her going so that I can finally get the car off the stands and finally be able to drive it.
It's been a year and I'm so ready for a drive.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
hey man if you need to use a tech 2 i might be able to get my bro to grab it from work next week and meet up with you.
Max, if that's the case, I'll definitely holler at you.
It'd sure be appreciated to say the least.
I'll know by tomorrow on whether cranking the car is going to work.
It's too hot in that garage right now to do something so later tonight when things cool off, I'll be resuming work on it.
Thanks man.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
just let me know.
when i bought my car the e-brake didnt work. just thought it needed rear brakes. then ABS light started coming on every once in a while. went to do rear brakes and noticed there wasn't even fluid at all going to them.(dangerous) don't really remember everything, been over 4 years. but i bought a used BPMV and new ABS module. couldn't get the rear to bleed so me and my bro hooked up a machine and pressurized it. and there came the fuild. didn't have to hook up any tech2. still have problems with them f'ers locking up and do get tired of adjusting them. thats why i wanna do rear brake swap.
Well I got all the tools to do so.
I'll probably home all next weekend working on the 'blu.
I'll probably get the new exhaust on it and if you're not up to anything, come on by.
Holler at me if you're coming.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Well cranking the car to try to get the abs module to click the abs solenoids failed to work.
So I'm still not able to bleed the system out. Fail.
Now I'm doing research to eliminate the abs completely by either using a Wilwood mc like PJ used or something other, similar to what Section8 is using.
Looks like it's going to be that much longer before I can finally get the car on the ground and be able to drive it again..
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
damn, real sorry to hear that. keep posted bout that abs delete tho, sounds like a decent project.
Hey, from my experience on deleting my abs and the neon rear this is how I bled my brakes both times.
You HAVE to have another person with you.
Have them sit in the car while your at the farthers corner from the MS.
Have them hold the brake down
you open the bleeder and see the fluid come out.
you close the bleeder
have them let up off the brake
REPEAT this 3 times for EACH wheel and your brakes will be bled.
Of course while doing this youll have to add fluid to the MS.
I have done this process 3 different occasions and it worked everytime. You have to have patience
Try this and let us know how it goes.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Yeah, I've had no secondary help with the brakes yet so that'll be my last attempt to do the bleed job.
Last ditch effort before I go with dissing the abs unit for a simpler setup.
Thanks.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Lol, I'll try to have patience for sure.
Hopefully I'll have someone to give me a hand.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
