so tomorrow or fiday, i'm planning on dropping my car on d-specs with road magnets (courtesy stargrrrl) and i've replaced the strut mounts, making what is essentially 4 quick struts. now, the issue i'm working at, is the front (at full extension) springs are loose, and there is a decent gap between the top of the spring and mount. (rears are not tight, but i'm not concerned about that. my main questions are thus:
1. I've heard of issues with knocking issues with the RoadMagnet springs. has there been a definitive resolution found for this? i've thought about wrapping them in rubber hose, but wouldn't that limit the travel of the spring if indeed it did have to be compressed far enough to knock by having the coils touch?
2. i have all 4 corners assembled at this point, with the fronts having new spring seats. there are no dust boots on them, and the ones on my current suspension (96 factory) are not worth salvaging. are they a must? or can i do without?
3. i was planing on doing the aluminum control arm swap at the same time, and have pressed in the poly bushings to do so. however, they have not been modified yet to fit the j-body track. i've read the amount here in need to be adjusted for is 1/2". however, i've taken measurements against brand new control arms, and the difference is more on the line of 3/16 inch. can this amount be adjusted for with a camber bolt kit? also, i'm having SEVERE difficulty finding anyone to just weld the holes. i can do the rest of the modding that needs to be done, but everybody i talk to says what i've seen done to these arms CAN'T be done. if i were to swap the struts and springs, then get it aligned, and at a later date, swap the control arms, i assume i would need another alignment?
4. any suggestions as to keep this project rolling smoothly?
thanks ppl o the JBO.
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so i put on one of the rear d-specs, and lowered the car to the ground. is this a normal amount of travel between with road magnets? it's aboot 1.5" at most.
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sorry i cant help with everything but i have heard of road magnets knocking and i believe some have added rubber or clear plastic to slience the knocking. again im not 100% sure about the fix cuz i have sportlines...
but as for dust boots you dont need them i dont have them on my car but they do help keep rain and dust out of there, it looks like the ones you have didnt have dust boots as the struts look fairly rusted. i dont winter drive or drive it in the rain so mine look brand new after 4 years... sorry i couldnt help more, good luck with getting it all together.
cOrpsemangler wrote:sorry i cant help with everything but i have heard of road magnets knocking and i believe some have added rubber or clear plastic to slience the knocking. again im not 100% sure about the fix cuz i have sportlines...
but as for dust boots you dont need them i dont have them on my car but they do help keep rain and dust out of there, it looks like the ones you have didnt have dust boots as the struts look fairly rusted. i dont winter drive or drive it in the rain so mine look brand new after 4 years... sorry i couldnt help more, good luck with getting it all together.
have heard of the knocking... and i've now driven them with the struts (d-specs) set at the manufacturer's recommended street setting of 5 turns from full hard (from 7.5 turns), 4 turns, and is currently sitting at 6.5 turns, and have not heard any knocking i didnt hear with the factory (140k mile) setup. unfortunately, i can't get it aligned till wednesday, due to work and scheduling issues, but the question i now have is: once i get the GAGT control arms welded and redrilled, should i do another alignment? i imagine so, because the caster may change slightly due to slight length between the balljoint CL an that of the inboard mounting points. also, does anybody know the stock alignment setting for the front end? as far as toe/camber?
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Quote:
1. I've heard of issues with knocking issues with the RoadMagnet springs. has there been a definitive resolution found for this? i've thought about wrapping them in rubber hose, but wouldn't that limit the travel of the spring if indeed it did have to be compressed far enough to knock by having the coils touch?
Make sure you have the thrust bearing at the top in the front springs. When springs compress, one end needs to rotate or they will make a popping sound over bumps or when you turn the wheel.
Quote:
2. i have all 4 corners assembled at this point, with the fronts having new spring seats. there are no dust boots on them, and the ones on my current suspension (96 factory) are not worth salvaging. are they a must? or can i do without?
I've been running for 2 years with no dust boots, although my RR damper is blown, so I'll be adding boots. They protect the seals.
Quote:
3. i was planing on doing the aluminum control arm swap at the same time, and have pressed in the poly bushings to do so. however, they have not been modified yet to fit the j-body track. i've read the amount here in need to be adjusted for is 1/2". however, i've taken measurements against brand new control arms, and the difference is more on the line of 3/16 inch. can this amount be adjusted for with a camber bolt kit? also, i'm having SEVERE difficulty finding anyone to just weld the holes. i can do the rest of the modding that needs to be done, but everybody i talk to says what i've seen done to these arms CAN'T be done. if i were to swap the struts and springs, then get it aligned, and at a later date, swap the control arms, i assume i would need another alignment?
Well, I don't know about stock style springs, but with my coilovers the OEM camber plates will allow for proper alignment with
unmodified aluminum control arms.
Quote:
4. any suggestions as to keep this project rolling smoothly?
Air tools. Patience
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:
so i put on one of the rear d-specs, and lowered the car to the ground. is this a normal amount of travel between with road magnets? it's aboot 1.5" at most.
bringing this back from the grave... still never got a resolution on this question. anybody have a pic of a similar setup? don't care the brand of springs you have, so long as they're in the area of the same drop, 2.2" drop in the rear, just wondering if this amount of travel is normal...
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