OK, I'm just trying to decide if this is worth it or not. Basically, all the rear axles in our cars are the same (3rd gens, anyways) with the exception that the uplevel GT's, Z24's, ect have the rear "sway bar" incorporated into the axle.
This "sway bar" is basically just a solid bar that runs straight across the rear axle. The cars that don't have the bar (like mine
) have the holes in either end to accomodate the bar. To add the bar, pretty much all that would have to be done would be to slide the proper sized bar into the hole from one end, and weld it to the rear axle on each end of the bar.
My question is, since I already have the Addco rear bar, Club Jeffie trailing arm bushings, and hub spacers, would adding the factory style rear sway bar make much, if any difference??? I am aiming to have one of the best-built suspension setups on a J, while retaining the stock axle setup. Has anyone even done this before??? Any comments or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
For everyday commuter driving experience; no, it will not make a difference. For spirited driving or on a road course, yes... a slight difference. What will happen is you'll get less under-steer and scale it more towards over-steer (more tail-happy). I don't know what would be your goal on how you want the car to handle, but that's what you'll get.
Your best bet if you want the rear stabilizer bar out back is to find a 2003+ Cavalier with the FE2 suspension. That model came with the largest size in the J; 19mm. FE2 Sunfires ALL came with 18mm, per GM.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I just went to the junkyard and pulled a trailing arm off a 02 Z/24 sedan with the stiffening bar. I believe that it'll help, but it Jeffies bushings will help more.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Im not gonna swap rear axles, just figured that if its worth it, id just get some solid round stock and weld it in.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I was already planning on building a trailing arm off the car so when it is done it would just be a simple swap.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
IMO, I wouldnt mess with it, If you want the rear stiffer, look into a rear tie bar or some of the custom bars members have built here that are like a rear tie bar but it also has a brace attached to the rear axle. anything stiffer than that, you might as well weld the rear axle to the unibody.
2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car
Rick wrote:IMO, I wouldnt mess with it, If you want the rear stiffer, look into a rear tie bar or some of the custom bars members have built here that are like a rear tie bar but it also has a brace attached to the rear axle. anything stiffer than that, you might as well weld the rear axle to the unibody.
No rear tire bar. Bad. Bad you.
Though if you are going to run r-comps you could run the triangulated setup.
That stock bar, I dont think it really does much. If you look at the forces, it adds practically nill to the torsional rigidity of the twist beam. I still say the best setup would be to cut the twist beam out entirely and replace it with another set of links off the trailing arms to make triangulated trailing arms and then to use a real trailing arm sway bar. You know like a real sway bar that attaches to the chassis in the middle. Even just a real swaybar on the stock setup would be nice.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Roofy wrote:Im not gonna swap rear axles, just figured that if its worth it, id just get some solid round stock and weld it in.
Go hollow, but bigger diameter. You would need to do the math, but a larger diameter hollow bar would do the same, and weigh much less.
.
