Just wondering if anyone has raised their engine to maintain driveshaft angles when lowering. Tossing around some serious ideas for the winter projects.
sounds like a good idea what about hood clearance?
got a ton of room, 6" if not more. Im over laying cradle, i want rails laying. Struts cant suck it too lol. I popped an axle out of the tripod at a show riding 0 psi and turning, lesson learned.
You might be able to extend your cv shafts a little bit. Wouldn't that also work?
Spencer wrote:got a ton of room, 6" if not more. Im over laying cradle, i want rails laying. Struts cant suck it too lol. I popped an axle out of the tripod at a show riding 0 psi and turning, lesson learned.
that sucks i say go for it man i would love to see it done
In theory, its pretty simple with our engine mounting layout. Put a spacer below the upper engine mount, redrill holes in the transmission mounts and fab up a dropped bracket for the dogbone.
Now that is in theory. 1 issue I can see right away is that there wont be much threadleft to tighten the bolts on the upper mount. There are however, ways around that, like cutting the studs off and either welding in longer ones to drilling and tapping for long bolts.
Dont forget to raise the steering rack up too. Bump steer is bad.
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Since my comment is gone.....
Some guy from Texas did this. He ended up with solid motor, and trans mounts that raised it 1.5" if I remember correctly. He did mention he had BAD bump steer on the freeway.
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could you also make spacers for the balljoint between the control arm and longer studs on the tie rods to correct bump steer? i think some one on here did this once
yeahidriveacavalier wrote:could you also make spacers for the balljoint between the control arm and longer studs on the tie rods to correct bump steer? i think some one on here did this once
Wouldnt that go the wrong way? You want to make the tie rod lower on the knuckle side and its above the knuckle at the moment. The only solution I've seen is to buy that one dudes outer tie rod ends and use a tapered reamer to drill the bottom of the knuckle out for the tie rod stud thing. Or you could just put spacers between the rack and the sub frame to raise it up. You will need an alignment after that as it will toe the wheels in.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
yes im wanting to raise the rack as well. I figure the header will need to me modded as well. Mounting the tie rods to the bottom would help alot, but yes. the reamer thing would need to me done, just bolts and washer might not be a good idea.
The easiest thing to correct bump steer would be to move the tie rod location to below the knuckle. Drill out hole, then put a chamfered insert in and viola.
I will be dioing this with mine for sure.
the point of this would be for the drive axles, steering would be the nice side effect or the new subframe
longer bolts and spacers.
most likely a custom mount here. or a custom subframe mount that sits taller. you could cap the factory one on the lower side while cutting the top out of it for the custom mount.
for the motor mount. you could have a custom one made that would mock the rksport or ttr moun just with a taller base. or a spacer and longer bolts as mentioned above.
yeah im running the LZM mount now thats the easy part.
oh wow interesting....
could always go with the n-body knuckles/wheel bearings/axles....
how would changing to those be helpful?
longer axles, wider stance. less angle on the axles. sadly 1/2 on each side is not enough to change much on the angle.
