lets see if this video works lol

doubt it but lets see, I was having problems with a noise in front end, I was thinking either trans-axel or wheel-bearing, so first thing I do is raise front end, guess what noise is gone so check the wheel she wobbled a little bit, so I removed tire and removed caliper pins, and wow the inner pad fell right out, and onto my lap. I checked wheel bearing for @!#$s and goggles, perfectly ok, so I checked rotor inside wearing funny and much faster then front side. after looking at the pad I noticed she was not able to go back into the piston and re-assembled.....video explains....IF WORKS

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

Video doesn't work, but could it be the 2 pins the caliper slides on? It should move freely back and forth, if it is sticky, when you push the brakes the cailper will stay pushed out causing more wear on the inner pad and less on the outer. The pad just has a clip that holds it in place, it normally does not "fall out" but I am not sure that would be a problem. I think you can buy new pins, Mine were a little sticky when I did my brake job so I just chucked them in the lathe and cleaned them up with some emery cloth and had some cailper greese. Slides freely back and forth like it should, it was after hours on a weekend too and car all torn apart so I reused them.

Are your pads worn down or still decent?

Also not sure what you mean about pad not going into piston? like it doesnt fit in it or piston wont compress?


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

I think I said Inner pad was my problem, not to sound like a jerk But I am a mechanic lol, just get lazy to do repairs lol, noise was the inner pad, the clips malfunctioned lol

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

for a mechanic working on your own vehicle you should have known to at least service the slider pins and the part of the caliper bracket/clips that the pads slide on, common sense dude. as for the pads delaminating thats always a p.i.t.a.

everytime I do breaks I lube the pins, dude I have been doing brakes for years, and know about installing its the failure to them that sucked. And so you know the outer pads slide on the inner ones dont

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

Sorry, I am not a mechanic but if it was my car though, I would fix it myself, some mechanics are lazy and do sloppy work....

good luck with your brakes....


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

I still have it all apart should be getting new today

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

Honestly, rebuilt calipers cost 16 bucks at autozone. I plan on just putting new calipers in every time I do brakes for that price.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

^^ I'm with this guy.

It's actually faster and more cost effective (to me) to replace the calipers and bleed the front brakes than to fuss with un-seizing the sliders and re-greasing them.

But that's just me - we're all different.

-Chris-



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