Has anyone experienced this after lowering

those who went too low, yes.



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I got it on Sportlines. Have you got an alignment?

I'm not sure if that's what is happening or if my cv axle is going bad, it's the drivers side. And it has probably less than 10,000 miles on it replaced it with a autozone axle last yr. I've just been researching this axle binding on the net to see if that's it. I'm on rksport prostreet full coil over suspension and I have a 1/2 inch left before they are dumped. All the suspension is new everything even down to bushings mounts etc. just had to replace transmission last wkend unrelated to this. But I'm getting pissed its gotta be the axle but I don't know it's only when turning at low speed like and gets worse the more you turn the wheel. Like when parking or taking off

And yes have done an alignment rear is pefect. Front within spec I have the camber bolt in struts. But my caster is a lil off tech said only to get caster perfect is to get those camber strut mounts. But that just effects the steering wheel alignment and it's pretty straight. So that's not a problem.

Im willing to bet if you get your camber into spec it would help. Basically youre pinching the CV joint at the top already because your camber is out of spec and when you turn its pinching it worse in the front or back. It going to happen if you lower any car with CV axles. Some are just more sensitive to it than others.

Mine never got fixed because they couldnt get my camber into spec either. Either you can live with it, oval the holes in the strut where the bolts go through it into the knuckle, get camber plates or get camber bolts.

Good luck with aftermarket axles. A few years ago I went through 4 in one day from the same issue you're having. They all pulled the CV apart. After putting them all on the parts counter at the end of the day (since it was the same guy helping me each time I went), we found that none of the main axles were the same length, a difference of almost 1" from longest to shortest, none of the CVs were the same design so the inner and outer couldn't be interchanged, and on one of them, the female outer CV wasn't deep enough to catch the circlip on the trans.

My advice? Go on car-part.com and buy some actual factory axles from somewhere. Anything you buy at a parts store is reman, which is made from whatever parts they have available that "fit".
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I just pulled a stock set of axles because the aftermarket ones wouldn't fit. I'm now down to one set of spares.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

My camber is within spec I have the camber bolts installed in my struts. The longer passenger axle is the original gm one. The drivers side is a newish autozone replacement. My original one a boot ripped then grease flew out then failed. My autozone axle is same length as original. Lol to the dude who went threw 4 axles in a day! Why didn't you check the old axle with your new replacement to make sure they were the same length. Should have never put an inch shorter axle in your car I don't even know how you could even bolt it up. With it being to short

jdm cav9 wrote:replaced it with a autozone axle last yr.

Surprised it lasted that long, I went through two axles in a week. Autozone FTL. I also had to change my ignition module at about every oil change until I grabbed a factory one of another car. Again, Autozone FTL.


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

I got mine like 4 yrs ago I have a manual transmission. This car is my project so it was hanging in the garage just getting worked on. So that's why I said the autozone axle is new. Cause it has less then 10,000 miles on it. I'm pretty sure the axles are fine. It doesn't make any noise while driving its just when tight parking or a lil something when taking off from turns. I wish I could figure out what it is everything is new ahhh. Just had to replace transmission so I had the axles out and inspected. Put all new seals in transmission. It's weird after I changed transmission it seemed a lot better. The feel in the steering wheel and noise kinda returned when maneuvering at very low speed

Sounds like strut mounts, mine do the same thing

My strut mounts are new. That's what I'm trying to say everything is new. That's why I'm so freaking frustrated

You know what guys I'm suspecting its my rack and pinion? That's the only thing that isn't new lol but I will have to trouble shoot the rack somehow to find out

jdm cav9 wrote:Lol to the dude who went threw 4 axles in a day! Why didn't you check the old axle with your new replacement to make sure they were the same length. Should have never put an inch shorter axle in your car I don't even know how you could even bolt it up. With it being to short

You do realize that CV play makes it almost impossible to determine axle length unless all your CVs are exactly the same right? You probably haven't done too much axle swapping, or you would also know that yes, you can put a 1" shorter axle in a car, and the CV will be stretched. It's also pretty difficult to bring an old axle into the store to compare when pieces of it are lying all over the road. And if you had read what I wrote, you would have seen that there was a 1" difference between the longest and shortest, meaning the shortest one was 1/2" shorter and the longest was 1/2" longer, so none of the axles I tried were 1" shorter.

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Calm down I hear ya boss. Damn didn't know yours blew up on the road.

I am calm. My meds had kicked in by then, so I didn't even punch my computer.
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Haha

have your stock axles rebuilt by a suspension shop. I have Indy rack and axle in Indianapolis.

My axles are good, I'm pretty sure it's my rack and pinion. But yea I will get my axles rebuilt in the future if they go bad. Luckily my passenger side is still gm. Has anyone done a rack and pinion? I hear there is a soft ride or a handling rack. FE0 is soft ride and some other number is the handling one. I'm going to call dealer with my vin # to find out which rack type I have.

so how does one go about fixing this issue? i am seeing this pretty badly right now. using aluminum control arms (unmodded) and am fully dumped up front on tein's. the axles tell me just how much they hate this every time i turn and or hit a bump.

the way i see it there is plenty of spline to go around inside the wheel bearing. could some type of shim be put in on the inside edge of the wheel bearing so the axle doesnt slide down into it as far? idk thats the idea i came up with. i can add in a bunch of negative camber with my tein pillow ball/camber plates but its actually already got quite a bit, you can actually see the wheel/tire tipping in on the top. i think ive got about 1/4" more of adjustment in the plates but i prefer traction not stance.



M45/OS crank/2.4 snout. It's nice to be injected but I love being blown!

you should see my axles, i don tknow why you are having this issue. The most problem i have it one eats up a boot every so often, and by that i mean twice for all the years ive been bagged.

Just so we are clear! It's not cv axle bind! That's what I thought it was its my rack and pinion I believe going to replace that next since that is not the only thing on the front suspension that isn't new lol geez my car has 133,000 on her just gotta find out what rack I need the soft or handling rack going with the handling rack either way cause my cav is a handling machine she is like a go kart with all my upgrades the only thing I don't have is a rear stut bar.

i put a rack from an 03 LSS in my gf's Z