Don't really wanna spend upwards of a grand for a BBK. But the tiny stock rotors warp so easily. So I was thinking Stoptech cryo rotors cross drilled and slotted and ebc redstuff pads. You think the Cryo's will hold up any better of just a regular rotor? Their $125 a rotor.
Is your profile page correct?
If you're warping stock rotors with what you've got in there, you've got other problems. Or, you just think you're warping them, and really have no problems at all.
To answer your question, no, a cryo treated rotor isn't worth it in your situation. Cross drilled isn't either. And IMO, unless you're going to track the car EBC reds are too much. A decent regular rotor and pads will work just fine. Maybe Hawk HPS or even EBC green, although the greens are pretty dirty.
James Cahill wrote: although the greens are pretty dirty.
As are the yellows...and they suck.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Well any serious stopping from 70 or higher and I can barely hold on to the steering wheel. I'm also a very aggressive stopper although I've been forcing myself to downshift more and save the brakes. So no cryo, but why not drilled?
Stock brake components on our 3rd gen cars are complete crap. Both my 98 and my 03 were sh!t. On the 98 we did 3 brake jobs on it, one with EBC greenstuff, before I upgraded to the Baer big brake kit (which rocks btw). The 03 wasn't as bad - didn't feel the constant "pulse" from the fronts, no this one was the rears. The shoes would "tilt" as a whole, and wear uneven, and no matter how much we adjusted them it never felt right or stopped right. Sold the 03 since then, but still have the 98 with the Baer kit.
This will solve your problem - just make sure your wheels will fit over it:
Wilwood
Not sure why they don't offer a rear disc conversion.
If I ever get into auto cross or something I'd upgrade to the big brake kit but I'm not sure I need something that serious. I just want something better than what I have now. Also I wanted the red stuff pads because I have silver wheels and they are constantly gray from brake dust.
Also - see link below for pulse during braking - quoted:
"#5 Why do rotors "warp"
They don't. The vibration you feel in the pedal that everyone explains to you is a "warped" rotor is actually a thickness variation in the rotor. If a rotor was warped, it would simply wobble slightly side to side and the caliper (which SHOULD slide freely) will follow it back and forth and no problem will ever be noticed. Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub. The outside diameter of the hub is maybe 2 or 2.5 inches from the centerline whereas the outside diameter of the rotor is between 5 and 7 inches from the centerline, depending on the car, and possibly more or less, depending on the brake system. This means that .001" or .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .006" or more of runout at the OD of the rotor. This indicates a slight rotor friction surface "wobble". As the rotor wobbles, it will touch the pads slightly at one point on the inboard surface and at another point on the outboard surface. The pads will eventually wear the rotor slightly at these two points causing a thickness variation in the rotor. Instead of floating the caliper back and forth, a thickness variation will force the piston back into the caliper and then let it back out slightly, multiple times throughout one revolution of the rotor. As the piston moves into and out of its bore in the caliper, it moves the fluid into and out of the master cylinder, which is mechanically connected to the brake pedal. This is why a vibration is felt in the pedal."
link
Brake FAQ
So your saying I just need new rotors?
My guess would be the latter of the two mentioned here:
"Most brake vibration problems are caused by rust or dirt build up or a slight runout in the hub."
Reason why I would guess runout is because early on when doing brake job number 2 or 3 on the 98 , I went with completely new rotors, just to have them pulse within a couple of months. I know my driving/stopping wasn't that bad!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, January 12, 2015 2:45 PM
I laugh when people say the stock brakes suck. Baer once mentioned that the factory brakes were very good for the size of the car.
When They did the big brake kit they actually lost 10 feet in stopping distance, but of course gained in longevity.
FU Tuning
So what I'm getting from all this is that the pedal is gonna pulse and the steering wheel is gonna shake violently no matter what?
Addicted to meth wrote:I laugh when people say the stock brakes suck. Baer once mentioned that the factory brakes were very good for the size of the car.
When They did the big brake kit they actually lost 10 feet in stopping distance, but of course gained in longevity.
Huh? Laugh all you want, but my experience is what it is. I'm not making the sh!t up. Never heard that claim about the Baer brakes. After I put the Baer kit on it hands down blew the factory system out of the water. Day and night difference. The front stock brakes on my 98 sucked. The rear brakes on my 03 sucked. Guess I missed the funny? Do you have any useful input for Akizzem?
Akizzem wrote:So what I'm getting from all this is that the pedal is gonna pulse and the steering wheel is gonna shake violently no matter what?
No - something is wrong. I went through 3 brake jobs on my 98 Z24 to try and fix that, to no avail. I finally settled on a big brake kit. Never had a problem since. I've driven all different kinds of cars and trucks and motorcycles since 1991. Never had the brake problems on any other vehicle like I did on the Z24. I would take it to a good technician and have them diagnose and resolve the issue asap. Although it might be funny to some people, for me it's pretty serious.
Hows about some pictures of the said problem rotors so that the problem could possibly be identified?
Also, something I haven't seen mentioned here, is proper bedding of the pads when you replace them. Not doing this can cause plenty of problems.
The other thing is to check out your suspension components. While your brakes may need replacing, a tie rod end or ball joint on it's way out can amplify the shaking of a rotor with some uneven wear on it, even if you don't notice it during normal driving.
ive noticed two things with the Baer kit... Better thermal capacity and the abs seems to work better with the baers than it did with the stock components.
While the baers should be able to impart more force on the rotors, you are still limited by the traction of the tire and the stockers could lock the tires without issue.
If you are tracking your car, big brakes are worth the upgrade. In autox, unless you are running a really long, fast course where you need to repeatedly being the car down from high speeds, stock brakes with better pass are more than sufficient. The goal would be to use as little brake as possible and carry momentum from corner to corner.
The issue with your brakes is the rotors are probably cheap. Get higher quality rotors or factory rotors and you probably won't have this issue. If they are autozone cheap rotors this usually happens as I had the same issue. Got dealer pads and rotors and it never happened. Same with rear drum hardware and drums. Dealer prices are only $2-5 more per part on this stuff. I think the rotors were only $10 a piece.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Yes you need good rotors , I got some good rotors and pads and the warping problem is gone and I m very hard on my brakes , I would warp rotors in two weeks or less . I put 80 miles a day on my cav,
