so i took my cavi in to get a replacement gas tank and the shop told me that i need a new passengers side hub/bearing assembly cuz i have too much shaft play and i they said they can replaceit for like 195 labor included...is this a good deal or should i go to a parts shop and DYI?? aslo, since im replacing the passengers side should i just go ahead and replace the drivers side as well?? any input is appreciated...

o btw it's a 97 z-24 just in case thats needed....

i looked but i couldnt find the post, i think someone said they replaced theirs and it only cost them 80 bucks for the parts (not positive though)

I like these bearings:
Dynapack @ Discount Auto

Those are about $60. You can find instructions to replace your own bearings at Bradiscool.com Look under the garage section.

He mentions that you should use Timken's but I have had very bad luck with those.

no it's not
considering the part is 50 bucks and you can do it with minimal tools and a ton of elbow grease. its definitely not worth it. you can do it in about 2 hours. if you need to get a crash course mail me and I can explain. I did it a weeks ago after what happened in my other thread look here for what happened ------->
<a href="http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=DPK&mfrpartnumber=WH513017K&parttype=184&ptset=A" target="_blank">http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=93804&t=93804 </a> well have fun man. who do you trust more a stranger with a uniform and a patch or yourself,

$80 is fairly well the minimum for a good quality bearing/hub. $200 if expensive. A good, well equipped mechanic can do it in about 45 min (~$50 labor) and about $90 for the part (10% markup), for a total of $130 to $150. If at a dealership add 25%.

As for the crash course:
1. Jack up car, secure.
2. Take off wheel.
3. Put a screw driver through the caliper to the rotor to stop it from turning.
4. Take axle nut off. It's on there at almost 200 ft-lbs, so it will be a bitch.
5. Take off brakes, caliper and rotor.
6. Use Allen wrench to take the three hub to knuckle bolts out.
7. Gently tap the axle loose with a hammer. If it doesn't come easily, you will need a puller. Do not hit it hard!
8. Pull the bearing/hub out.
9. Reverse to put new one in.

Someone who is good at working on their car should take about an hour to do one side. First timers will take longer.

Be careful of that axle! Don't compress it too much. Don't over extend it. Both will break things.

By the way, that stranger in a uniform probably has a company/insurance backing his work, you don't.

I'd say definate DIY. I am by no means a mechanic or have the tools of a mechanic but was able to do the job with just the write up from Bradiscool.com. Picked up the missing tools from his list and did the whole thing in a parking lot at my work over lunch. Took 45 mins.

One thing that I would suggest that is not listed on brad's write up is a chisle and hammer to get the old bearing off though.

have fun!




"Nemo Me Impune Lacesitt"
~Reject

I wouldn't use a chisel since you might damage the splines. You need a punch and a hammer. Once you take the axle nut off you put the punch in the little dimple on the end of the axle and tap it to brake the axle loose from the hub

I've replaced wheel bearings on my car at least 5 times. It takes a good 45min to an hour to change everything.

Reject & Zach:

C.T.S wrote:7. Gently tap the axle loose with a hammer.

No chisel. But I think he used that to get the hub off the knuckle. The hammer again should be just fine, used gently.

Well, if your going to bang on the end of your axle with a hammer, at least put the nut on the very end so you don't screw up your threads.

If you damage your axle gently "banging" on it with a hammer, you had bigger problems than a damaged axle. Those things are extremely hard steel and are not easily stripped. I'd be much more worried about damaging the CV joint (which doesn't take in/out movement very well).

Your punch or nut idea is good safety step however, and I would do the same. I was pointing out that I had already included that step in my quick instructions. Just seems like there's an echo in here sometimes.

these are easy to change. broken two so far and don't plan to do it again. you may have all the insurance in the world. but insurances are know for say this little phrase " yeah I know it sucks but..........your SOL" I would rather trust.........numero uno-----> me

the only mechanic that wont shaft me for time, money, or future work.

Well me and Jackolope just changed mine last week and it took like 30 min. The part was 70 bucks from advanced auto and it came with everything. First time me doing this and it was easy.




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ok thanx guys...in will definately pick up the parts this weekend and ESB and I will knock this out together...one more question though..since im getting the passengers side replaced, should i also replace the drivers side just to be safe??

Only if you have reason to think the drivers side is bad. They don't commonly wear out like struts or something. If it were me, I'd just do the one.

Most people when changing these things skip a step as it adds more time and cost. Good bearings will come with a seal that goes over the CV on the opposite side of the spindle. You have to break the strut assemble to slide the joint out of the spindle and seal it from the back side.

What's interesting is that this seal does not seem to come from the factory. I did a passenger side about 2 years ago and did not seal it. Well.. I just redid that bearing a week ago so if you do not what to spend that money and have to do it every couple of years put the seal on it. You will likely have to get realigned however !

If you want to skip the alignment you can take the control arm and strut mount loose and leave the knuckle-strut bolts and ball joint alone.

I've never seen such a seal before, but it might just be the brand I use.