I'm definately in need of a clutch soon with 65k total on the stocker and 10k now on a 50-100shot of nitrous!

Being a college student money is low (many JBO'ers can relate) so I was hopeing to try and find a good deal on a
Spec Stg 3 and do the install with a local JBO friend who has a lift and all neccesary tools in his shop. I'm pretty
engine savvy but I want to get any advice possible on doing this clutch install before I dig into it just to be sure,
since she is my DD.

I know I've heard of maybe two or three clutch + fly or just clutch installs that went wrong but I can't find the threads
and basically that was the main thing I wanted to make sure I didn't do. (whatever that was that went wrong with the
other installs)

So if anyone has experience dropping the motor (or pulling it) and changing out the clutch please fill me in on some
things if you can. Thank you very much!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200

you dont need to take the whole engine out to change your clutch... just the tranny. you can drop your steering rack(which i've never done)
you can take it out pretty easy.
it may take you several hours if you dont know what your doing. but you would be able to figure it out.

jack your car up and block it with jackstands or anything that you can safely hold your car up.
clear any wireing you might break there are 2 sets of sensor wires for your tanny (I have a 2000 getrag)
take your front wheels off and unbolt your struts from the spindle you just need to pry the axles out of your tranny and make sure theres an oil pan underneath because it will pour the tranny oil out after you take it off.
unbolt the @!#$er cables and pry off the shifter cable ends
unbolt the starter (2 bolts), plate below the engine(4-5 bolts) then the transmission and take it out.
i'll have to cut it short. but use a 5/8 sparkplug socket to align your clutch and engine hole and dont forget to get a finger of grease inside the hole in the middle of the flywheel.
make sure the pressure plate is hold down with the socket aligned with the clutch and just do the reverse steps for putting it back togather

side notes:
you may need to rebleed your clutch cable
and behind on the tranny theres a bolt allen key hole for your tranny oil. fill the oil back up untill it pours out of the tranny and when its done dripping put the allen key bolt back in.

NUhm..... OK............

I've always been able to pull a 2.2 trans without pulling the engine, or steering rack, or subframe or whatever. You can also do it without removing the starter.

Unhook the VSS and reverse light from the trans. Drain the tranny fluid using the DRAIN PLUG. This does 2 things, keeps you from having a mess at the axle when you pull it and it shoots all over the place, and B keeps it from draining out onto the floor throught the axle hole later when you set the trans on the floor and it tips, since you'll get more out. Shifter cables may require you to use a flat head screwdriver to get them to pop off, depending.

Once you get the tranny pulled, the clutch is easy to get off. I strongly reccomend having the flywheel turned. Especially if you've worn the old clutch down to the rivets. When you put the new clutch in, the kit will come with an alignment tool that simplifies the job of making sure everything is lined up. Pop the tool through the disc, and slide it into the flywheel. Put on the PP and bolt it down, then pull out the tool.

After putting everything back together, reverse of the way you pulled it, you'll have to bleed the clutch ('bleed the clutch cable'???? WTF that just sounds dumb) since you'll be installing a new slave cylinder. Refil trans oil, and give her a whirl.

It may also be helpful to get a Chiltons or Haynes manual, especially for stuff like the pressure plate, as you'll want the proper torque specs for stuff like that. But really, the job isnt as hard as it looks when you just peek under the car.

Your getting some good advice, here. The only thing that I saw that Might have been typed wrong or something is , they said to unbolt the strut from the spindle. Thats not a good Idea. That will for sure throw your alignment right out the window. Instead remove the lower ball joints. take the pin out, 18mm nut off , turn the wheel all the way one way and smack that area on the spindle a few good times with a hefty hammer and the joint will pop loose. You will need a pry bar to get it pryed down enough to get the axle out. Oh the axle nut is a 30mm and make sure you torque it when done.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

I've never had an issue with removing the strut from the spindle. As long as you're not messing with the tie rods your alignment should be fine.

Thanks for all the help! And SHOoff is basically correct about the alignment not really getting messed up with unbolting the strut from the spindle! I'm getting my suspension done all in the same dose so it'll be a 1/2 knockout!

Thanks for all the help and general advice!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200