On my girlfriends '02 cavalier after she switches gears it bucks really bad. Sometimes it isn't safe to drive. It also dies alot at stop signs or when she is coasting. It isn't consistant when it dies or bucks. We have changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor. There is no check engine light either. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be.

um did you try the fuel pump itself check the throttle body for any signs of excess carbon build up.

it might be also your safety/neutral switch going 2


Opening Soon Kustom J's

Carbon build up in the throttle body?
Neutral safety switch?

What are you two smokin? First of all carbon doesnt build up in a throttle body, sludge does on the throttle plate. Carbon builds up in the EGR valve and passage ways. Neutral safety switch is there so you cant start the car without pushing the clutch down. His car starts.

No check engine light means that all the sensors that were changed werent necessary. It doesnt sound like a common problem. Rear main seal leak on the engine will cause bucking. This is a stick right. Oil can leak on the flywheel surface causing a Hit, skip problem, but you say it stalls or quits. If It was fuel related you should get an oxygen sensor code of too lean. It could be the egr valve stuck, but im not sure of what emissions you have on your 02. I have seen broken wires in the engine harness that stretch when the engine has torque on it.

I would check for the oil leak, and the wires if their Ok check back here for an intelligent answer from some one that has had that happen to them. good luck.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Is it a 2.4 by chance?? If so, change the coil pack cover. The white piece on the bottom side of the idi cover, that pushes onto the spark plug boots. If it has a crack it will jump fire. We had the same problem and changes everything that you mentioned, plus more, and it turned out to be the coil pack cover.

if it's a 2.2, sorry i can't help ya.
j

Mine bucks when its first started, when it gets warm is goes away. I was thinking it could be the clutch in my case, but wasnt sure if it was the Coil Pack cover either. When im accelerating, the car feels like theres a lag as well, almost like something is holding the car back. Sound like the same ordeal?

Ender_Wiggin wrote:When im accelerating, the car feels like theres a lag as well, almost like something is holding the car back. Sound like the same ordeal?

That sorta sounds like what my car was doing...only did it when I gave it gas and was really bad going up a mountain or hill. Changed the ignition coil cover and solved it all (wished it woulda been the FIRST thing I changed...woulda save a lot of $$ LOL)

-Crystal

Okay you know what Joe you don't even want to go there you first jump me for being what you think is a smartass because i didn't see your name was Joe, now you suggest i am smoking something when i respond to a thread if your going to get away with insulting people don't jump on them when you get it thrown back at you.

KICK IT!!!!!

I have a feeling that it is the fuel pump.


275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

That's what i'm thinking also Adler.

Ya, fuel pump, having some serious drivability issues, fuel pump. I have seen some wierd a$$ drivability issues stemming from a fuel pump. Get your fuel pressure checked. But also, whoever said taht replacing sensors when there is no check engine light is useless, you kidding me, do you even go around late model automobiles. TPS and MAP sensors almost NEVER throw a code, unless they are almost dead. That is why mechanics that are good with an Occeloscope(spelling) make a TON of money. They hook up the scope, and they watch the voltage pattern of sensors, injectors and such, and can tell exactly what the problem is without throwing parts at it. But anway, back on track, im thinking fuel pump.

David,
My red Sunfire is doing about the same thing. The car will buck/bog when trying to accelerate. It has only died a few times tho. There is also a check engine light with 2 codes....front o2 lean, and lean on accell. I wouldnt be surprised if mine is because of the fuel pump or fuel filter. I put in the injectors from my other 2.2, and it still does it. I used a injector harness test tool, and it seems fine. The injector duty cycle seems normal when I was using the Snap-On scan tool.

I will let you know what my problem is if I am able to figure it out.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

joe malechowski wrote:Carbon build up in the throttle body?
Neutral safety switch?

What are you two smokin? First of all carbon doesnt build up in a throttle body, sludge does on the throttle plate. Carbon builds up in the EGR valve and passage ways. Neutral safety switch is there so you cant start the car without pushing the clutch down. His car starts.

No check engine light means that all the sensors that were changed werent necessary. It doesnt sound like a common problem. Rear main seal leak on the engine will cause bucking. This is a stick right. Oil can leak on the flywheel surface causing a Hit, skip problem, but you say it stalls or quits. If It was fuel related you should get an oxygen sensor code of too lean. It could be the egr valve stuck, but im not sure of what emissions you have on your 02. I have seen broken wires in the engine harness that stretch when the engine has torque on it.

I would check for the oil leak, and the wires if their Ok check back here for an intelligent answer from some one that has had that happen to them. good luck.

You my friend have problems........

Carbon does build up on the TB.......

Sludge is aparent in diesel cars WAYYY more than gas cars (when it comes to the TB atleast).....

And how can you deny these other opinions like they're poposturous when you're giving him info that could cost him hundreds if not thousands to check out. It seems like you took one auto class and got too happy about some new things you've found out and started posting the most random stuff on here.

________________________________________

Like everyone else said, check fuel/ignition first. It deffinately sounds like a fuel issue though with the bucking and dying out. Either you have a clogged pump from bad gas or just regular use, or it goes to the fuel filter to injectors. If you want to stay on the cheap side and test some things out you can seafoam your car. Ignition wise, you can check all your spark plugs because they'll tell you alot. Carbon (black sut) will be that its running to rich (which I doubt in this case) and a white sandy type of coating over them will tell that it's running too lean (meaning its starving for fuel). Try those two out first since they are a cheap way to rule out alot of things and save alot of money!


N2O + Bolt-ons = 220Hp/250Tq

Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200

I used the MAC fuel pressure gauge kit on my 2.2, and it is only reading 15-20 psi at idle. And it takes a while for the pump to build up pressure in the line when I jumped the fuel pump reley. So it looks like there is something screwy going on with the Walbro pump or a fuel line in the tank fell apart......Time to go and drop the tank!!


275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

Well, I found my problem. The fuel line coming off of the actual pump to the feed line on the inside of the fuel pump assembly module slipped off. I put the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel pump assembly, primed the pump, and it hit 70 psi




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

try checking the vacuum line... my car did that quite a bit and i found out it was cracked and then i replaced it, but the tubing was too big, so it had a little leak and would occassionally did it after it was changed.
-Jeddy

Is it an Ecotec? This could be completely unrelated, but I had a problem with stalling out at stop signs and when slowing down and whatnot (no bucking though) in my '03...There was a problem with my ECM...I believe that there was a bulletin out for it...Not sure if it was only on '03's or on all Ecotecs...

Well we got a new fuel pump and that still was not the problem!!! When we took it back into the shop one of the guys said that he thinks it is a computer problem!! Thats really nice huh??

We don't know what else to do. Anyone have any ideas?? The car has been in the shop for over a month and it still is not fixed. We have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the coils, the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, and the computer. We are so clueless and so are the guys at the shop. By the way it is a 02 2.2 L cavy.

I had the same problem this past weekend changed a lot of stuff fuel pump coil packs fpr plugs wires etc. Found out the alternator only put out 27 amps maybe this could be the cause of your problems.

i had a problem kinda like it. i have a 98 z24 and it turned out to b the wiring harness was all jacked up

my '02 2200 does it from time to time. i just dump the clutch and stomp on the gas once and it goes away


Don't you bottom out?

- Yes I do

Talk about raising the dead... the last post was over 2 years ago.

For other people int he future that look at this post, Ive had the same issue.

I changed both o2 sensors, the spark plugs and boots, checked for cracks on the coil cover, nothing.
I was listening to the motor one day and heard a faint vacuum leak so I pulled the line off the fuel pressure regulator and plugged the end of the hose with one hand and the regulator with the other. The instantly idled better. I uncovered both lines to reinstall the vacuum line on the regulator and fuel started squirted from the regulator. After throwing like $200 at the car I find out that the diaphram in the regulator was bad. I pulled the regulator from my other motor and put it on the car and it was a day and night difference.

So to whoever has an issue like this, make sure you check all items of the fuel system, not just the pump.

Thomas

"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"

sounds like what my car did for a while, Turned out to be the o2 sensor. the damn thing welded its self to the exhaust, had to replace the manifold, and down pipe, or that was my excuse for buying the new header and exhaust system lol. But that does seem like a vacuum leak, the easiest way to find it if it is is to buy a can of berrymans b12 spray and start spraying around the engine compartment and listen for a change in the idle. if it goes up then your sucking air and should have a good idea of where the leak is coming from. Just a foot note, keep the spray away from the hot exhaust because that crap is extremely flammable and will take your eye brows and lashes in a heart beat. Hope this helps out

Man, a return from the dead.
Thanks niteowl, I wondered if you still were on here argueing with people.
Apparently I had better things to do 2 years ago than argue. Any way I wouldnt have recommended changing the fuel pump unless YOUR 99% sure its the problem, you could have at least checked how much amperage the pump was drawing before you replaced it. Thats a quite expensive guess. Shame on you Dave for caving in to those guys wanting the pump to be changed. Its so hard to diagnose a car by someone else on here , You learn to never recommend a parts swap if you dont first test the Item, the circuit and know how it works.
BBALLJAMAL, You know, 18 years I have been a mechanic, 6 days a week, somtimes on sundays and holidays too. listening to people's explanations of what is wrong with their cars, After taking it for a spin finding out that the customer doesnt know how to describe what is wrong in the first place. Yet I still come on here and at least try. I have had my share of strange problems at work but I can count on one hand how many I have sent down the road cause I couldnt figure them out. Im talking on average of 30 cars a week diagnosed and repaired. Its just a different ball game if its right in front of me. So dont give me that crap that I dont know what Im talking about. The fact is the person giving advice is useless if the Hands (question asker) doesnt give the right diagnostic info necessary to pinpoint the problem.
I wonder if David figured out what was wrong? Dave If your still on here let us know what you found out.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e