Ok I have a 99 rs, the interior has no mods and a stock stereo, I just got the car. and when I hit the rear window defrost the fuses pops. I looked at the wires comming off the glass and they are in great shape, no cracks or melted insulation, and the lines on the window are intact with no breaks.
So my question is what could cause the short circuit that is blowing the fuse
Get an Ohmmeter and start checking the resistance of the wires in the circuit.
Check the thick black wire in the green connector behind the carpet on the driver's side of the car, right by the trunk release. That's a common spot for it to corrode and short out. Usually it burns open, so you have no connection at all... but it's possible to short out and ground to frame... then it would blow fuses as you've described.
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the meter is showing it being grounded against the body some place. I looked at the connector and it looks in mint condition. I guess after the rain stops I will have to track it down. Im wiling to bet its behind the cluster coming from the switch its self, my gas guage has been doing some wierd crap and my 2 lowest fan settings on the fan control dont work. So i guess its time to yank that stuff out and fix it. It would also be a good time to start the trip painting lol.
Thanks for the replies.
I doubt the fan speeds are related, you need a fan speed resistor, mounted down next to the blower.
On the back of the defogger switch , your power in from the fuse is pin D Orange, it switches to pin H Purple out to the window element. I dont know whether the wire goes through the console or down the passenger or drivers rocker panels. If you had the plastic door opening trim pieces off It could be possible the wire got pinched when it was reinstalled. i would look there first then take the switch out.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
Grounded at 0 ohms? Or not quite zero? There will be some resistance at the grid itself, but I can't remember what the values are supposed to be.
If you're having other electrical troubles... it could be a bad ground in the circuit. There's two on the top of the column behind the gauge cluster.. and at least two maybe three in the floor pan under the front seats. I don't recall where the ground for the HVAC controls is...
unplug the window completely, both sides. turn on the switch and see if it still pops. If it does you have a short to ground from the switch to the window(purple wire), if not then the ground is loose or corroded.
that ground is G301 under right front seat, that should be a larger wire cause I show that it goes in the harness and splices several other things together in splice S331 near right front door grommet. Other items that share the same ground are, the ash tray lamp(chevy only), door lock relay,rt tail stop turn lamp,rt front door lock switch,remote door lock reciever, rt front jam switch,rt rear jam switch, lt rear jam switch,and the defogger. Blower doesnt share the same ground as the rear window. The blower is G202 lower left dash.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
I found it, it was a short between the main feed to the window and the ground. right at the connector of the switch. Looks like who owned the car before installed a stereo and was messing around with the climate control. I forgot how much fun it is to take that trim piece off so you can access the stereo and climate system.
were would I be able to find the wiring harness connector along with the switch board for the r/w defrost and the A/C switch. The ground completely fried and wielded the harness connector to the switch board.
I wired in a 2005 rear window defrost and a/c switch to a 99 cavi. Everything works but I cant get the rear window led to go out. its on even with the keys out of the ignition. Has anyone ever done this swap and if so how the heck did you get that damn light to work right?
