I got a 2001 sunfire
it had a strange oil leak years ago
i never could find out whats wronggg
no gm dealership can fix it
it up high near the head
the car is now supercharged and still leaking
any one with any tips on where to start would be great
oil/air seperator problem from day one???
jbp built ld9
60mm tb
custom fender well 3"cai without battery removal
all prothane motor mounts and control arm mounts
mp45
pulley boys 2.5 pulley and quick change
aem water meth throug modified ebay spacer
kyb agx dial a rid struts
2" drop sprint springs
need to break it in then a good tune
winter plan :try twin charge if that dont work just turbo
How about a pic of the leak area? Its hard to speculate with out any idea of teh area you are talking about.
since you didnt post any pics, Ill take a shot in the dark. Most of those engines end up having an oil sending unit leak. Its right behind the power steering pump, towards the rear of the car . If you unplug it and there is oil past the rubber seal on the plug , in the terminal it self , change the sensor. It will have a round shaped plug with a notch cut out of it, sometimes up to 3 wires.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
I know of a couple guys who complain of an oil leak around the cam towers. Just a guess tho, would need to see some pics.
Yep, the other most common leak is the camshaft tower cover gasket(s).
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
I have had this same leak since 2001, meh...
the oil leak in my car is concentrated around the water pump .
its a gear driven pump rite? so its possible its coming out of the pump seal?
jbp built ld9
60mm tb
custom fender well 3"cai without battery removal
all prothane motor mounts and control arm mounts
mp45
pulley boys 2.5 pulley and quick change
aem water meth throug modified ebay spacer
kyb agx dial a rid struts
2" drop sprint springs
need to break it in then a good tune
winter plan :try twin charge if that dont work just turbo
there is a rubber / steel gasket that seals the water pump to the back of the timing cover , that can leak oil.
Yes gear driven, the pump is at the end of the lower steel radiator hose on the passenger side rear of the engine.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
welcome to the ld9.
nothing abnormal about one leaking.
i'd probably hate it if it didnt leak
Needing 2.3 oil pump stuff? PM me...
Jo Mx... wrote:since you didnt post any pics, Ill take a shot in the dark. Most of those engines end up having an oil sending unit leak. Its right behind the power steering pump, towards the rear of the car . If you unplug it and there is oil past the rubber seal on the plug , in the terminal it self , change the sensor. It will have a round shaped plug with a notch cut out of it, sometimes up to 3 wires.
what is the sensor called , an oil sending sensor? and is the sensor for that under the rubber seal on the plug? my 99 2.4 has started leaking oil and its coming from the area your talking about behind the power steering box. thing is it only leaks when I drive the car without giving it awhile to warm up. Has anyone ever had a 2.4L that only leaks while the motors still cool?
It's not a sensor, it's the oil pressure switch (or sending unit) that turns the dash oil light on under low pressure conditions. It likely leaks more when the engine is cold since oil pressure is higher. I'm betting it still leaks when the engine is hot.
allright thanks, I'll take a closer look to see for sure if thats the problem, but it has leaked a little when the engine is hot but it is by no means anywhere near as much oil leaked as when I drive it over 3,000 rpms while cool, but thanks for the info.
best way to diagnose an oil leak is this :
shampoo entire engine
add UV dye to oil
drive around etc ... cause oil to leak
look for UV trace with a black light
14.82 @ 97 mph
Oil pressure is around 45psi, cold or warmed up. Bad sending unit still sees that 45psi all the time when engine is running.
On a 2003 L61 Ecotec; Battery, Airbox and Throttle body must be removed, to then take off the starter for access to change the oil sending unit.
It is on the side of the block, right below the oil filter housing.
The knock sensor is also nearby, so if you feel the need(your already there)change it too.
I would do that first, before allowing a shop to charge you
Over a thousand dollars to R&R a rear main seal.
$25 and 3 hours of your time vs. Paying a shop for half a semester of his kid at the local community college
"Are you sure your A/F ratio is correct? That hole in your Block custom?"
