L67 Help! - Third Generation Forum

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L67 Help!
Monday, April 20, 2009 6:20 PM
I am about to start my L67 swap and I was wondering what trans to use I have a 98 2200 5-speed, and Im going to a 3800 supercharged series 1 I would like to keep it 5 speed. I was planning on keeping the isuzu but I read somewhere the diff suck and they have plastic syncros. I also read that I could swap in metal syncros and lsd from a storm or impulse. Some people are saying the getrag is better but I dont know what to do. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.



Re: L67 Help!
Monday, April 20, 2009 8:14 PM
in stock for getrag built isuzu



my kill list:a geo metro and a mac semi wow did i kill that thing
Re: L67 Help!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009 12:01 AM
What? Are you drunk again Mike?

Plastic syncros... that's a new one. You wouldn't make it far on plastic... they're all metal. I believe they're made of brass, but I'm not 100% on that.

From what I've been told over the years... the difference between a real Isuzu transmission and a GM-built-Isuzu-designed transmission is the differential - the spider gears are stronger on the true Isuzu transmission. Forged? I'm not sure... but stronger than the powdered metal garbage that GM decided to use on their version.

After having done the L67 swap, I wish I'd stuck with a 5 speed... the auto version blows.

...j



Re: L67 Help!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009 7:07 AM
the spider gears are machined rather than cast but yes i was drinking a little lol but i have heard that a built isuzu is very strong but my ld9 broke a stock one



my kill list:a geo metro and a mac semi wow did i kill that thing
Re: L67 Help!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:04 PM
John Lenko wrote:What? Are you drunk again Mike?

Plastic syncros... that's a new one. You wouldn't make it far on plastic... they're all metal. I believe they're made of brass, but I'm not 100% on that.

From what I've been told over the years... the difference between a real Isuzu transmission and a GM-built-Isuzu-designed transmission is the differential - the spider gears are stronger on the true Isuzu transmission. Forged? I'm not sure... but stronger than the powdered metal garbage that GM decided to use on their version.

After having done the L67 swap, I wish I'd stuck with a 5 speed... the auto version blows.

...j

The GM Isuzu uses two piece synchros. I believe they're powder metal crap though, not plastic. The true Isuzu ones are one piece, and I thought they were steel, but I could be wrong there.

The differential is far stronger as well. The other good thing is that you can get a 4.11 FDR, but you need the diff and spider gears from the 3.94 FDR version to fit our axles. When I build a boosted 3400, I'm going to be doing the 4.11 FDR, with the close ratio swap. I expect to be getting V8 MPG numbers when I'm done.






Re: L67 Help!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009 4:23 PM
Ok i think I understand. I have just rolled 200k miles on the stock isuzu and I was planning on having it rebuilt and running the parts from the "real" isuzu trans but what do you guys think? Also what do I have to get from the geo/isuzu trans. We really need a sticky in the trans. forum. I spent like 3 hours searching last night and I didn't get very far.


Re: L67 Help!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009 6:03 PM
I say go for it. Get the synchros and the diff for sure. As for the rest, it's up to you. there are different gear options, and depending on what you're trying to do, certain combinations that will make more sense than others. Typically, a V6 is mated to a lower FDR than a 4-banger, because they have the torque. However, they'll throw your ass back in your seat insanely fast when coupled with a high FDR.





Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:17 AM
Quiklilcav wrote:The GM Isuzu uses two piece synchros. I believe they're powder metal crap though, not plastic. The true Isuzu ones are one piece, and I thought they were steel, but I could be wrong there.

The differential is far stronger as well. The other good thing is that you can get a 4.11 FDR, but you need the diff and spider gears from the 3.94 FDR version to fit our axles. When I build a boosted 3400, I'm going to be doing the 4.11 FDR, with the close ratio swap. I expect to be getting V8 MPG numbers when I'm done.


I thought they were steel as well. The 1-piece lets you slam on them harder, but your shifting is a bit more clunky too. Which adds to the already clunkyness of the Isuzu. Personal preference I suppose, I kinda like knowing for sure when it goes into gear.

On the FDR's, what's all the FDR's for an acutal Isuzu? Was it 3:83, 3:94 and 4:11? I thought there was something lower than 3:83. As far as buying a trans though, I found at a somewhat local junkyard (within driving distance) an MK7 from an Isuzu Stylus (3:83) for 65 bucks. Its probably gone by now though.







www.gmscf.com
Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:05 AM
The lowest FDR is a 3.58. That's what's in the 95-99 2.2 OHV cars.

From this thread:

Quote:

I assumed a 24" tire diameter for each so that we are comparing apples to apples.

The ratios I used are as follows:

Stock 2.4 Isuzu Gearing
Tire Dia 24
Axle R 3.94
Gear R 3.73 2.18 1.33 0.92 0.74
Tq Multip 14.6962 8.5892 5.2402 3.6248 2.9156

Stock 2.2 Isuzu Gearing
Tire Dia 24
Axle R 3.58
Gear R 3.91 2.18 1.45 1.03 0.74
Tq Multip 13.9978 7.8044 5.191 3.6874 2.6492

Dan's Hybrid 2.2 (all 2.2 except for Geo Storm SOHC 1st and 2nd)
Tire Dia 24
Axle R 3.58
Gear R 3.73 2.043 1.45 1.03 0.74
Tq Multip 13.3534 7.31394 5.191 3.6874 2.6492

2.4 with 2.2 3rd and 4th
Tire Dia 24
Axle R 3.94
Gear R 3.73 2.18 1.45 1.03 0.74
Tq Multip 14.6962 8.5892 5.713 4.0582 2.9156

Just though I would share if anyone is interested. For some it may be easier to see how the different ratios will effect their speed in each gear ect.

Just for comparison, the one I intend on building will have the 2.4 1st, 2nd, and 5th gears, 2.2 3rd & 4th gears, the Storm/Stylus diff, synchros, and 4.11 FDR. Mated up to a built and boosted 3400, I'm hoping it will be pretty damned fun.

I just wish there was a lower 5th gear, since that will only ever be used for cruising, I won't need the high torque multiplyer.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:09 AM



Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 9:53 AM
wait wait wait did she say series 1 supercharged 3800



my kill list:a geo metro and a mac semi wow did i kill that thing
Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 10:30 AM
you are wasting your money on a series 1 the power it makes you can do a 3400 way easier and faster

series 1 is not worth the work as mike knows hes doin a new one now. basicly DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A SERIES 1, EVEN IF YOU GET IT FREE, requires the same parts as a series 2 and you canget a series 2 for 500-1000 bucks if you can't afford the extra 500-1000 your never gonna get this car movin anyways this swap is not an easy swap and shouldn't be attemted by amatures



JBO since July 30, 2001

Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:13 PM
I can get like a 98 or 99 malibu with a good engine from my work for like 200 bucks thats a 3100 if im not mistaken they make 170hp. The seris 1 makes like 205 which is inly about 35hp extra my two reasons for doing the 3.8 is that i was planning on running a smaller puley and maybe a few other litle things. Which today I was kinda thinking what you guys are saying but what all could I do to the 3100 to make it get to that power.


Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:49 PM
If the Malibu is a 99, that's a very good 3100, and that swap is simpler and easier, for a very good power gain. If it's a 98 or earlier, don't bother. The way to tell if you want the engine or not is if the intake manifold has lines going across it where it says" 3100 SFI", or if it's smooth around the letters & numbers. For all the work you'll do, and the weight you'll add, the series 1 3800 will not do any better than the 99+ 3100 or 3400, and there are plenty of things you can do to make them faster. 60DegreeV6.com has tons of info, and there is a store you can link to from there (can't remember the name of it) that has just about everything you could want for a 3100 or 3400, including custom ground cams for $300. Can't beat that price at all.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 23, 2009 1:58 AM



Re: L67 Help!
Wednesday, April 22, 2009 6:39 PM
accually i think an early 3100 would be beter than a series 1 3800 i put one in a 94 cutlass and put a 1.9 inch pulley on it yes 1.9 and the thing still wouldn't keep up with a grand prix gt i think it was a gear ratio problem but really the torque should have made up for it and i even had it tuned



my kill list:a geo metro and a mac semi wow did i kill that thing
Re: L67 Help!
Thursday, April 23, 2009 2:31 PM
do a 3100 or 3400 over a series 1

series 1 regires the same fabricating as a series 2 so if you were doin that spend the extra and get 240hp and 280 ftlbs



JBO since July 30, 2001
Re: L67 Help!
Thursday, April 23, 2009 5:01 PM
I understand thank you all


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