So I ususally run low 14s in my car... The last time I raced last season I did low 15s BAD for me, with a 2.1 60'... So I figured it was just bad air that night or just not my night for shifting... So I just raced tonight and......... LOW 15s again with a 2.1 60'. WTF! I data logged all the runs and everything looked fine. So whats the deal do you think? Mechanical problem? Engine wearing out? She runs great still, I just dont know what the issue is. Nothing is changed from the time when I would run low 14s until now. I usually run 14.2-14.5 @ 94-96mph. Any ideas?


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

The track you were at before. Is there a chance they put correction on it for atmospheric conditions. I swear i've heard of tracks doing this before. I ran mine through a calculator based off the track I ran at. My 15.03 turned into a 14.28 using the calculator. Which would put me right about where you were at.

Also, something to keep in mind. Using the 2.2 Isuzu transmission gives you a FDR of 3.58. If you swapped the gear from the 2.4 car, it would be 3.91, which would probably improve your times some.

I hit back to back 15.03's in mine I was gonna give mine a couple degrees more timing at the track and made the discovery that the last time I used the laptop earlier that day was apparently the last time I was going to ever use it.

On the other hand, a guy I work with has an 04 Mach 1. He said right after he got the car he hit the track with it and hit a 13.7 in it. And it was the only time he ran that. Now all he can pull off is a 14.2.

Also, look at my motor mount thread. If you don't have one of these and are using a stock GA mount. I HIGHLY suggest getting the one that i have. It makes the car feel a million times better, though I haven't taken it to the track yet.




i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

Nitrous Nate wrote:Nothing is changed from the time when I would run low 14s until now. I usually run 14.2-14.5 @ 94-96mph. Any ideas?

Um, you forgot how to drive it since last year?

lol^^^ I thought I might have just had some bad shifts but there all good.


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

Ok here is two normal time slips from last year:

Reaction: .1383
60Ft: 2.1534
330Ft: 6.0191
1/8: 9.1672
MPH: 78.17
1000Ft: 11.9222
1/4: 14.2291
MPH: 97.36

Reaction: .3561
60Ft: 2.0822
330Ft: 6.0558
1/8: 9.3310
MPH: 76.39
1000Ft: 12.1453
1/4: 14.4942
MPH: 96.26

These are the two from the other night:

Reaction: .2212
60Ft: 2.1946
330Ft: 6.2926
1/8: 9.7260
MPH: 72.92
1000Ft: 12.6093
1/4: 15.0745
MPH: 93.81

Reaction: .2622
60Ft: 2.1632
330Ft: 6.3013
1/8: 9.7552
MPH: 73.89
1000Ft: 12.6830
1/4: 15.1563
MPH: 90.76


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

Nitrous Nate wrote:These are the two from the other night:

Reaction: .2212
60Ft: 2.1946
330Ft: 6.2926
1/8: 9.7260
MPH: 72.92
1000Ft: 12.6093
1/4: 15.0745
MPH: 93.81

Here's me:Ok here is two normal time slips from last year:

R/T ... .7701
60' ... 2.2918
330 ... 6.3697
1/8 ... 9.6840
MPH ... 75.22
1000 ...
1/4 ... 15.0318
MPH ... 90.17

You're running about the same as me. But I see your mods list says you have ported heads on that thing. I have the stock heads, so I'd think given all the same, you should outrun me. But whatever it is from the slips it looks like you'd beat me off the line, but I'd pass you by the 1/8. Something's getting at it on the high end. Hard to say what it is though.




i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick

question for you. just info i have came across. depending the year of 3.4 they have different head stud sizes. newer years have smaller studs and usually strip out in the head. could that be a possibility that rockers are not open the valves as far causing a power loss? or maybe the valve springs are weeking from the abuse especially from spray? just a thing i thought of because it looks like out of the whole is not to bad but by the 1/8 mile you have a pretty serious drop, meaning shorter gear higher rpms. by the 1/4 mile its starting to gain again usually meaning higher gear lower rpms. again just a guess from my angle and maybe something to look over.

I wouldn't think any stripped studs would simply cause a loss in valve lift. I would expect that the valve would, at the very least, start clattering like crazy, since if it lifted out at all, it would be loose as hell. This wouldn't be something you would be oblivious too.

The only thing I'm thinking is check your filters, and check that all of your sensors are properly connected. There may be something throwing off the computer, and it could be running in limp mode, which pretty much plays everything safe. There are also, unfortunately, a number of minor things that could cause issues, and without data logging, you could miss them. If you are still in school, you may want to run it on the dyno again, and compare to see if and where anything has changed in your curves. That may possibly help to narrow it. I'm sure you don't want to just start replacing things until something does the trick. A knock sensor could be causing too much retard, for example.

its definatly no you your 60 for and stuff is consistant what the issue is you car is about 5 mph slower in the 1/8 mile then you lose another 2 mph over the 1/4 for an almost 7mph drop overall



JBO since July 30, 2001

^^^ LOL. What's up with your posts lately? The other night you posted something and it was borderline jibberish.

trap speeds are down... something is up.


e/t is an indicator of how well you drive. speed is an indicator of how powerful/fast your car is.


When your e/t suffers, you suck.
when your speed suffers, something is wrong/ going wrong/ is breaking/ will be broken soon.

Quiklilcav wrote:^^^ LOL. What's up with your posts lately? The other night you posted something and it was borderline jibberish.

how often do you read his posts? hahahah. they're almost always gibberish.



JBO Stickers are back!!!! Click Me!!

hahahaha most of the time my a$$ bad

sometimes my fingers get goin to fast on the key board sometimes its just ramble hows this post



JBO since July 30, 2001

Brought the car to work this past weekend and went over it real well, found MAF to be real dirty. Cleaned and the car seems to be running normal now.


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

I take the above statement back. Went to the track this week and still ran a 15.0... Interesting data log though. Bank1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor goes completly lean the entire time under WOT... Reviewed previous data logs and its always peaked out in the .900 range. But now its running in the .045 range... Strange. Fuel pressure tested good so im not sure whats up. Could it be getting un-metered air from somewhere you think?


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

Not likely. At WOT your computer should be running solely off the fuel tables and ignoring all inputs from things like the MAF, O2, things like that. They'll show up in the datalogs, but the computer isn't using them to determine proper fueling. So you probably need to juice up the tables some. Not sure what would have caused a drastic change over time. But I would say the ported top end could throw the stock fuel tables off and make it run a bit lean.

What's your injector duty cycle during a WOT run?





i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick