Hey im new here...k so heres my story
i bought a 2000 z24, i spun the bearing, bought a 98 z24 (crashed so was cheap), i pulled the engine and found out that was already swapped from a 97 Grand am....the engines look almost identical except for the EGR valve thing....but ok right now ive got the 97 grand am motor in my 2000 cav body, its already attached to tranny and all mounts are on, but some of the wires from the body dont seem to match up, maybe im doing them wrong or are these motors different?
the motors are slightly different. your 2000 doesn't have EGR while the motor out of the 98 does. they changed the design halfway through the 99 model year.
Check out my build thread!
the knock sensor on the block is different to... to put a pre 00 motor in a 00 you need a helicoil to retrofit the knock to the 00 knock....
this post should be in the maintenance forum
yea the EGR and the knock sensor are different, but is everything else the same? there was a plug that goes into the side of the AC compressor and it just doesnt seem to fit right, there was another one near the valve cover that wasnt fitting right either
2.4 doesnt have a valve cover.
Use the correct sensors and components from the car its going in. Dont mix and match your pre 99.5 and post 99.5 parts.
got it in, everything ran fine, everything sounded great...drove it about 80 miles and my friend pulled next to me on the highway....hit 3rd to about 5k, shifted to 4th and while flooring it, it stopped climbing around 4k and boom i hear a bang, car locked up....push clutch roll to the side, it tried to crank over for a while, i let it cool and now it starts but ive god a spun bearing for sure...@!#$ 2.4s, 2nd spun bearing ive gotten from these motors
Why would you boot it after just putting it in?
For future references, after an engine swap, baby the car for a while and check all fluids often to make sure things are working right. Wait atleast a couple weeks before you decide to floor it and hopefully get arrested...
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Are you forgetting to put oil in these engines?
if you spin a rod bearing within 80 miles, you did something wrong.... its not the motor's fault
however you should have replaced the bearings before you dropped it back in
it was a used engine not new...but my dad didnt tell me the engine sat for a year without being started....also the oil was at good level but it turned black(yes it was new oil)....im figuring the dirt and @!#$ came out of the bearings and everything and loosened it up....i ordered new bearings, they come in 2 days...dropping the pan and hoping for the best
thats a huge risk-used motors-i did the same thing, well the kid who I bought my car off of. head gasket went about 5k after swap, did all top end work, then maybe 3k later the bearings spun, on the #1 rod spun so badly the crank neded replaced as well as the rod, but here is the best part. There was so much play that the rod bent-looked like a crescent moon shape, the piston was hitting the head at the top, and the counterbalance on the crank at the bottom of th stroke. Ok this is even better yet....THE CAR STILL RAN!!! amazing isn't it, it had all its power, until 35k it would loose lots of power, and man did it make noise when it was bouncing. new clevite berarings? either way check your crank journals in the block and diameters on the crank as well, make sure you didn't cut into anything, or all your work is waisted. umm question, did you ever explore the option of using the donar car's wiring harness? i was just wondering is all. it's not near your fault that second motor spun, that thing was probably beat when u picked it up, and after an accident, well potentially ther crank/seals/bearings all could have shifted upon impact (if creamed just right)---reference my 95 talon, t-boned so hard the trans spindle slammed the flywheel and split the rear side of the crank ---good luck my man, i'll be lookin to see how you make out.....just make sure you break your bearings in before race day
or you'll be doin this
how is it not his fault that the motor blew up?
when a motor has been sitting for an extended period of time (especially outdoors or inside a car's engine bay) it can get corroded on the inside i.e. cylinder walls, bearing clearances, etc. etc.
why would you possibly think it is ok to beat on a motor that was freshly installed in a vehicle? would you take a car off the showroom floor and drive it foot to the floor at 300 miles on the motor? no. motors need to be broken in, whether it is brand new or it has been sitting for a long time. yes the motor may not have been completly right before putting it in, but you should never ride a "new" motor hard until you have driven atleast a month or two to 'break it in' and make sure everything is up to spec. i know this because i hydro-locked the motor in my winter beater, bought a parts car and swapped the motors out. original hydrolocked motor had 180k, donor had 210k and ran like @!#$. pulled both, ripped donor apart and inspected everything, motor was worn but usable, swapped, sea-foamed, and babied it for 2 months. thing still runs at almost 250k and it hasn't been driven lightly either.
I agree, sorry to sound as if im jumping on the wagon here, but i just replaced my girls crank bc of a 2.4 spun bearing. The damn bearing was replaced before, and it spun on me when i got it home, so i pulled the motor, mic'd the crank and the damn thing was 60,000ths undersized and i mic'd the rod and it was ok, so i didnt even think about new bearings, got a new crank from Napa, with the matched bearings, put her back together, and yeah there is stil a SLIGHT tick from the bottom end, but its my girl driving the car, and im planning on replacing the motor when tax season comes back around. But, even im planning on changing the oil at 200 miles, and adding some lucas oil treatment to it as a "just incase" movement. Reguardless of how many miles and whatnot, you NEVER beat on a motor when u install it into a car. Just like everyone said, you always wait for about a month or two. I always say dont beat on it till the first 1000 miles on the "new" motor. So yeah, sorry buddy, but its your fault, plain and simple. Should have never been "racing" your buddy on the street in the first place, and 2ndly not only did you pretty much look like a idiot when ur engine blew again, but you could have hurt urself with that engine locking up, and causing you to loose control of your car and possibly killing you or someone else. Goodluck buddy.
calling you out on this one is irrelevant. you should always take the time to do it right, not just pop and swap. you could have spent 200 on bearings etc and checked it out and had a running car. but the best lessons are the hardest learned
