Has anyone done this yet? I am not sure where to look for pistons and what not. I have a copy of the ECOtec Racing/performance book. But everything in there adds up super quick. I just want to hone out the cylinders .020 or .030 over with new higher compression FORGED pistons and rods. Basically only replace minimal parts (pistons, rods, and rings)
I think I can find the rods, but I wanted to look at my options as far as pistons.
I have the motor sitting in my basement on an engine stand. I want to have it done so when my current motor goes (hopefully not for a long time) then I can just drop this in.
Any advice or opinions are welcome.
(I never rebuilt an engine before, but I have all the time in the world.)
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
I have, we had to for a class. Not really that hard though, had quite a bit of trouble with the timing chain reinstall, couldnt figure out what bolts go where for the plastic pieces.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
I will be working on the same thing, cool. I havent done the bottom end yet, so i cant help you there.
You can buy pistons from jbp, any bore, stroke, any compression. I think you can get rings too.
I am going to do and eco swap, but frist I'm going to build it up. This is my first 4 cylinder rebuild, but I have done many 6's & 8's.
I was thinking of boring or honing the cylinders, but Ecotecs are sleeved cylinders in an aluminum block. So, honing is possible without resleeving, but there's a good chance that honing it could decrease the intregrity of the sleeves.
I talked to a master tech at my work(saturn). He said it could be done, but there wouldn't be any real noticable improvement honing it 0.02. Honing more than 0.02 might be the most you could go before needing to resleeve the cylinder. He also said that boring it over like 0.06 or more would most likely cause serious overheating problems, and intregrity issues.
Then, I thought of building my eco into a 2.0 supercharged, but every part in the block would need to be replaced. That was looking to be over $5000 (dealer cost), but it can be done. That's to far out of my price range.
So, now I'm planning to port, polish, 3 angle valve job, oversize valves, and better roller followers on the head.
Trying to decide on GM billet rods & pistons or Weisco forged rod & pistons. Either way I want to go with the higher compression ratio. Also, I'm looking for a better than stock crank. The LJS(2.0sc) crank might work better, but not sure exactly. I need to do more investigating on that.
the 2.4 eco has a bigger bore
and for 5k you could buy the 2.0 sc engine
i have rebuilt my ecotec motor from the bottom up. I am running wiseco .020 oversized 8.9:1 pistons, eagle h-beam rods, balanced and blueprinted factory crank (eagle makes a replacement factory crank also), GM copper head gasket set with the o-rings machined into my block, factory main bearings, new gm timing chain set, Full ported and polished head with SI 1mm oversized valves.
Thats all i can think of right now. If you have any ?'s feel free to ask
If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!
Ill have to pretty darn soon im almost to 75k now
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Yea L61, a full complete LSJ is just shy of $6000 list price.
or just over 4700 dealer.
Thats why I changed my mind from doing the 2.0.
? whats blueprinting your crank and what does it do??? significance???
Makes sure everything is in spec. Kind of like the blueprint to a house, but for your crank. You can blueprint a entire engine. Measure and write down everything.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
FIVE year old thread here guys...
however, on new motors like ours, blueprinting not so important.... balancing is.
RoboticPotPie wrote:FIVE year old thread here guys...
So, he used the search button.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
