I've decided I just want this thing running so I can save some gas. Right now I'm daily driving my lifted Jeep, and it's goin to make me go broke. So I guess I need to know what engine I should go with. I don't want to go older, cause I don't want an SES light on permanently because of the missing crank sensor. So can I go with the newer 2.2? IIRC, 96 had it's own configuration and is different from 95 and old as well as 97 and newer. What exactly changed in the newer 2200 engine? I can get an engine for 350, I just need to know what year I should go with so I can broaden my chances of getting a decent low(er) mileage one.
If the 2200 is a possible swap without much trouble, what kind of benefits does it have over the 2.2?
I did a search for something like this, but every thread asking a similar question, never got a complete answer or even any reply at all. Hopefully I will have better luck...
Thanks!
That was the plan. Till I discovered the rod went through the block...
96-97 were the same engines the 2.2 the 2200 with the top feed fuel injectors started in 98
Erik Packard
So the top feed injectors are the only difference? There are people that swapped the 2200 fueling setup onto the 2.2, so a 2200 should be a viable option, shouldn't it?
I have a rebuilt 95 2.2 that was overheated and the headgasket went. So I MIGHT, just put a head on it and put it in. Even though I will get an engine light because of the missing crank sensor. That's if I decide I want to be as stingy as possible fixing it.
Personally, I would stick with the 2.2 over the 2200.
There should be other options for a crank sensor on that, I have never looked into it so I have no clue.
Jason Roy wrote:So the top feed injectors are the only difference? There are people that swapped the 2200 fueling setup onto the 2.2, so a 2200 should be a viable option, shouldn't it?
I have a rebuilt 95 2.2 that was overheated and the headgasket went. So I MIGHT, just put a head on it and put it in. Even though I will get an engine light because of the missing crank sensor. That's if I decide I want to be as stingy as possible fixing it.
i did the top feed conversion on my 2.2 and it is so much better then the 2200 the only problem was having to take it to a machine shop to have them bore out the holes to fit the top feed injectors right and then having to try and fit the fuel rail past the throttle body those are going to be the two difficultys to it and also you will need it to be hp tuned or it will flood out the engine since the side feed injectors pressure is highter then the top feeds
Erik Packard
Looks like I'll be staying away from the 2200. I mostly wanted it for the beefier pistons. I guess I don't know why, really. Considering, after 205,000 miles, it was the rod that went in my 2.2 and not the piston. I'm sure there would be an external way to get a sensor on the crank, so if I do go with the 95 engine, at least I'd have a way to remedy the SES light.
Quiklilcav wrote:get yourself some 2200 pistons.
I need to order some too. Been a plan for too long now
Bringing this one back from the dead...
Finally got around to pulling the engine out of the 1995 Beretta. Now that it's out, I'm not sure that it was ever rebuilt. I'm guessing probably just replaced. The engine says "97" in yellow on the timing cover, so I'm wondering if it may be a junkyard engine out of some sort of 1997 car. Which would make since, cause the kid I bought the car from is kind of a doof. So he probably said he rebuilt it and just put a JY engine in. Oh well, still a good engine, and even better for me if it turns out to be a 97 engine.
So I guess what I'm getting at is, how do I tell if it's a 97 compared to a 95 engine?
Then here are some pics, cause pics always make a thread little better... (well, usually)
As you can see, the leak appeared to be in cylinder #1. I actually only thought it was getting into the oil, so I'm glad it didn't hydrolock. I'm wondering if the head bolt was already broken before trying to remove it, and was what ultimately caused the gasket to fail. When I drained the oil, a lot of antifreeze came out(about 2 quarts). Car sat long enough for it to separate again. Should I check the main bearings? Also, if I do will I need to get need bolts, not sure if those ones are re-useable or not.
What I plan to do before this goes back in is the Fel-Pro headgasket kit, along with the conversion kit. The conversion kit is basically all the seals and gaskets for the bottom end that the head kit does not come with. Would be a master engine kit, but the site I was looking at did not offer it(in fel-pro anyways). Still have time to check other places, but that's all I've found for now. Price ends up being $100 for both kits I think it was.
I'm also going to try my hand at a port and polish with the head. Figured since I'm using this car for practice, might as well have some fun and try for a modest performance boost. A MPG boost would be great as well. Will finish off the install with an ebay long tube header.
So, any advice or comments on my adventure? Anything else I should check/replace while I'm at it?
Was hopin to have some info by now. Guess Ill see if the haynes manual will help me decifer the year of the engine. That and I dont think Ill be messing with any internals.
Would like to clean it up real nice tough. What can I use to clean out the inside of the engine? Thinkin about using engine cleaner or even brake cleaner. Want this thing clean enough to eat off before it goes back in.
the crank sensor isn't different from 95-02
you have a 96 hes the differences
95 had a Vacuum accuated EGR 96+ have electric
95 did have a cam position sensor 96+ does
how do you tell the difference between them if it has the ribbed valve cover irs a 97 and older
if it has an electric EGR then get it
if it has a vacuum based one then its too old for your use.
just go to a wrecker and get a motor there cheap and a 2.2 if it threw a rod threw the block then change the oil every 5000 and don't mash on it when its cold. the 2.2 should never do that if its taken care of. hell lwhen my buddy and i wanted to blow his up we drained the oil and drove it to the shop all it did was melted the bearings and siezed it still never snapped a rod we drove it at 5000rpm to the shop down the street.
2.2 is stronger then a 2.4 or atleast engineered better
JBO since July 30, 2001
Hate to admit it, but I think I ended up causing the rod to fail when I did new injector seals. Filled the cylinder with fuel when one didn't seat correctly and hydrolocked during first startup... Ran fine for a few weeks though. Live and learn I guess.
Thanks for the ID info, very helpful. I'm goin out to my garage right now to check it out. *crosses fingers*
Is this a typo though? "95 did have a cam position sensor 96+ does"
Cause if the only difference is the EGR, then I'm fine with that. Wouldn't that even be something I could swap over? I'm guessing you meant the 95 DIDN"T have a cam position sensor though.
Yup, no cam sensor. Hmm, this leaves a dilemma. Maybe I should just fix the head gasket, put it back in the Beretta with the old cav trans (since I want to keep the brand new one that I put in the beretta) and sell it for like 500 bucks(might try for 800). Then I'd have some money to get an engine from the JY, as well as a car to drive until it's sold. Maybe I shouldn't have cut the fuel lines when I pulled the engine... Oops.
yeah typo sorry about that 95 DIDN'T HAVE A CAM POSITION SENSOR
JBO since July 30, 2001
