So I read the other thread and know what to do. But, who's part is good to buy?
Are Timken's overpriced at 140 a pair for hub and bearing?
1AAuto has only Timken and "some other" brand which is out of stock.
Or should I just get whatever Autozone, Advance or NAPA has?
I threw the advance auto ones on both of my cars and they work fine. Ordered them online with a discount code and picked them up at the store, saves you quite a bit.
Looked at the reviews on Advance Auto, not too impressive... This is the wif's car and I really don't want her suffering (then whining to me...) if this happens again. Do you think the negative reviews are due to poor installation vs. poor parts?
Also, from other things I've read, there's no need to install the seals. What is your view on that?
Thanks again too!
from personal experience, 99.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999% of replacement hub bearing failures are because the axle nut is improperly (or not at all) torqued.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
^thoses guys are right
Most common causes for failure
-not torqued properly
-impact set to kill is not torqued correctly
-do not torque the nut while the car is on the ground
Preload is everything
I'm about to buy one from Rockauto.com... Ordered from them several times.
2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles
I just changed the hub out, no seals or anything, no need to bother with them. Better to change the hubs in pairs rather than doing one at a time.
Also dont forget the seals. The oring goes on the back and then the dust red/gold cover goes on after you put the hub in. I couldnt figure out why I was eating hubs and why when I bought hubs the kept coming with axle seals, had a different mechanic put the hubs in and blam problem solved.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
i never used the seals either, hmmmm
Hmm, 144 ft/lbs or 185 ft/lbs torque on the axle nut?
Someone posted 185 in another thread, but 1aauto says 144 and even worse a bunch of axle-torque pdfs say 148...
No book at any local parts stores today...
Spencer wrote:i never used the seals either, hmmmm
Yeah Mine last about 6 months without the seals, they come apart just filled with sand.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:Also dont forget the seals. The oring goes on the back and then the dust red/gold cover goes on after you put the hub in. I couldnt figure out why I was eating hubs and why when I bought hubs the kept coming with axle seals, had a different mechanic put the hubs in and blam problem solved.
So the cover goes on where? Back side of the hub? Care to elaborate or take a pic? I've always wondered what those seals were for...
Op I'd get timkin there well worth it. And I believe it's 185 ft-lbs.
I cant remember, he explained it to me. I'd have to go out and look. He said the cover goes on after you put the hub on so I would assume it goes on the outside.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:I cant remember, he explained it to me. I'd have to go out and look. He said the cover goes on after you put the hub on so I would assume it goes on the outside.
Hmmm when my friend helped me with my old 97 on a bearing he use to work at a GM dealer and we pulled the drive shaft out of the knuckle and put that metal seal in the back of the knuckle.... It was a pita tho.. I think that's why I toss that metal seal out lol...