Car is a 97 2.2 ohv auto Cavalier. The timing chain has jumped ( car will barely run , no evidence of valve/piston contact ) but I have decided to replace it . A couple of things have me puzzled; Since the chain jumped The fan now runs all the time and the I ac is clicking. I am hoping this is due to crank and cam sensors reading wrong due to timing being off. Is this common ? It of course now has a few new codes ( o2 sensor , map , tps ) that weren't there before but again I am hoping this is due to ecu/ecm confusion. Thanks for any and all replies.
EDIT, title was supposed to read Daughter's car repaired , I don't know how to edit it. Repairing her is another matter all together
.Just kidding she is a good hardworking kid.
Replace the timing set, re-time the motor correctly and all should be good.
The motor is a non interference motor so there should be no damage from the slipped timing.
If you know there was a pre-existing problem, ignore the fact that it has codes and fix the known issues first. I had the wiring for the IAT sensor break on me at the plug, I knew I was having IAT issues to begin with. Checked codes, 14 of them. Once I found the broken wire and changed the pigtail, all the codes went away.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Thanks for the replies , the flex pipe is leaking so occasionally o2 code would pop . Also I replaced the tps sensor a while back and reset ecu so I would think that to be a false code as well. The fan running had me concerned so I wanted to check. On her car I have to manually reset he ecu with the reader . On most cars one can unhook the battery for a few minuets and push brake or turn on light to discharge system to reset it but it takes the battery being unhooked for a while on her car.
Its supposed to take about 20-30 mins of the battery being unhooked.
Again if the timing is off things arent going to be right....fix that and I bet most things will right themselves
Philly D wrote:Its supposed to take about 20-30 mins of the battery being unhooked.
That's if you don't do anything else. Hitting the brakes closes the circuit for the lights and in theory will drain any capacitors that have power remaining.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Well I got the cover off, its about 4 or 5 notches out < not sure how the car even started. Lord willing I think its gona be okay after new timing set. Find out Monday.
Running better than ever ,Thanks all.
New problem; no start. Cranks fine , has fire ,fuel and good compression. It is over fueling and flooding the plugs. No codes and I can still read the ecu with scanner but I suspect ecu failure. Seems I would have some cel if it is a crank/cam position sensor , wouldn't I ? Any help appreciated.
Car was running fine( with the exception of low pitch hum from alternator after engine / switch shutoff . I could pull ecu fuse and hum would stop . From what I read this could have been the ecu not "turning off" the alt/regulator so this has lead me to think ecu failure.) and just shutdown and wouldn't start back.
Not sure. But if it's flooding, you should be able to floor the gas pedal then crank it. This puts it into flood clear mode and should shut the injectors off during cranking.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
I gave that a try and its still over fueling. I had the plugs out , cranked it (holding it to the floor )and its putting a big mist of gas out of each cylinder via the spark plug holes. I checked the fpr and the diaphragms not busted....about all i can figure is ecu/ecm.
Changed fpr and still no star. weathers bad but I guess next step is to double check mec. timing ( replaced about a month ago,compression still good ) maybe ecu , idk.
