Hey guys I have to put a wheel hub on my brothers 2002 Pontiac Sunfire the thing is i've put two of them on so far and two have failed before the warranty expired. They usually come with this red seal with a black ring around it but I can never figure out anything to do with it and it seems the hub is sealed anyway. I usually just slap the new one in and put it all back together, do I need to use a wheel bearing grease or a lithum grease? or should I just be able to slap it in and go?
Its a sealed bearing you shouldnt be greasing anything. If its a front wheel bearing, the ring I think youre describing is a just a seal to keep crap from getting in behind the bearing assembly in the knuckle and seizing the bearing assembly into the knuckle.
What brand are you getting? Id imagine thats 98% of your problem.
Also, torque the cv axle correctly.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
Oedwards wrote:Also, torque the cv axle correctly.
this... if you use an impact its bad bad... also if your using duralast their junk out the box try wbi or timkin
Erik Packard
The wheel bearing MUST be torqued to 185 ft lbs with load on the bearing.
I keep a stock 95-99 sunfire GT rim for this purpose... tighten the axle/hub bolt down, then lower the car and torque it to 185 ft lbs.
Bearings WILL prematurely wear if they aren't torqued correctly, and J-body bearings seem to be extra sensitive to this.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
SweetnessGT wrote:The wheel bearing MUST be torqued to 185 ft lbs with load on the bearing.
I keep a stock 95-99 sunfire GT rim for this purpose... tighten the axle/hub bolt down, then lower the car and torque it to 185 ft lbs.
Bearings WILL prematurely wear if they aren't torqued correctly, and J-body bearings seem to be extra sensitive to this.
-Chris-
this is the first I've ever heard of this.
I wonder if this has to do with why my wheel bearings in front go bad so often.
also, timkin is the best IMO I've tried a bunch of brands and timkin always last the longest
I usually torque my axle nuts to 150lbs-ft with the rotor in place and a screw driver jamming it on the caliper ears. I've always done this, even on the skwirl, and only started having issues with my blue car bearings... def gonna try this method next time I have to change them
I never torque axle nuts, and I've never seen anyone else do it either also I've been fixing cars in a shop for over 6 years now.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
Just goes to show how well you're trained then doesn't it?
Sad when a hobbyist knows more than a "pro".
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Rob wrote:I never torque axle nuts, and I've never seen anyone else do it either also I've been fixing cars in a shop for over 6 years now.
Must be a lot of warranties at the shops you've worked at
Erik Packard
Ricozero wrote:Rob wrote:I never torque axle nuts, and I've never seen anyone else do it either also I've been fixing cars in a shop for over 6 years now.
Must be a lot of warranties at the shops you've worked at
hell torque specs are usually provided in teh box anymore....
