I have a 2001 sunfire with about 310,000KM on it. and the valve train sounds like an old diesel. the body and the transmission are in almost mint shape. yeah i could do the cheap and just change the rockers and lifters and springs, maybe do a valve job while im at it.. but then im thinking about the bottom end.. its tired. and thoug it might not push any colors yet.. i think its time to drop in an ecotec..
but Ive never done newer GM stuff before. I have done Japanese stuff and Honda's. but there is a ton of books and info about how to do swaps on those things. plus they have fully open ECU tuning options for cheap.
my question is.. if I swap in an eco tec. besides the engine, ecu, rad, wiring harness, ect what else do I need? I know the engine is probably not going to match my bell housing or clutch.. my question is.. is it like an old skool stick.. where you can change bell housings.. or is it all one cast piece? . if so would the tranny be able to communicate with the new ecu.. or does it go to the body ecu?.. do I need the body ecu from a newer 3rd gen or will my stock one work if i need to go to an ecotec f23?
also I cant seem to locate the engine ECU for the stock 2.2 ohv engine.. is it under the hood? or tucked into the dash?.
also if I do put the super charger onto it. how small of a pulley can I put on before my ring lands break. also. ECU tuning? is there a way to flash a GM ecu?. and timing.. if i want to run around 15 psi how far should I retard the timing.. and should I do spark timing or valve timing? is it even safe to run a stock l61 with 15psi.. even with retarded timing? if not.. what boost is safe.. or should i just spend the time and cash to put forged steel pistons in there.. also are ecotecs aluminum block for cavalier/sunfires? if so. is there there a way to re sleeve them like a diesel..
Read this:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=30&i=38274&t=38274
Then read this:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=183438&t=183438
Those 2 threads will answer 90% of your questions.
As for boost limits, anything is safe as long as you stay under the hp failure limits of the stock parts. GM rates the rods/wrist pins at 250hp, but alot of people(including myself) have made 260-300whp on stock L61 Ecotecs without them breaking(tuning is the key). The general rule with the M62/L61 combo is "As long as the tune is good, do what you want." The M62 will not produce enough power to kill a L61(280ish seems to be the max they make on Ecotecs). Personally I run a Harrop HTV1320-LSJ(bigger blower than the M62) on my stock L61, current max boost pressure is 17psi and it made 260whp/250wtq the last time I had it on a dyno.
