okay, i bought the zex dry kit, and need help installing it, where do i connect the fuel pressure regulator line? the intake vaacuum line? and the tps signal wire?
i have the instructions but they are very basic and i cant download the ones off the net on my computer
any help would be awsome (post pix please!!! if you have them)
do i need a t fitting to do the fuel pressure regulator line?
i got a sig warning
boosted cavfire
Sry to say, but I have like every pic you need to see but they're about 2000+ miles away from me in seattle :/ Wish I could tell you but I wouldn't want to be responsible for some kind of mix up! If you search for a topic titled (Need Help Quick!!!) posted awhile back by me in this forum you should find a post with alot of info in it. It has a good majority of the pcs inside on the 2nd page! G*luck
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http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=39&i=10117&t=10117&start=0
Eh I'll just post it for ya! So I guess there's descent info on both pages, Eventually when I get back around a 2.4 and eco I'm going to make a decent How To/Sticky on the nitrous install on all engines!
Have a good day!
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You do not need to tap into the fuel. It is a dry kit so only the nitrous is going into the intake. I suggest that you get some professional installer to hook it up. You need to check make sure your stock timing is workin rigt as well as your fuel pressure.
Ok the fuel pressure regulator hose should go from the box to the fuel pressure regulator. The Fuel pressure regulator is located on the fuel rail under the tuner tube the black thing that says 2200 on it. Fuel Rail has a bracket on top of it. The Hose that you pull off of the fuel pressure regulator goes to the box for the intake vaccum line. You can trace it to the back of the throttle body and replace it with the hose included. The Tps signal wire hooks onto the blue wire going in the tps sensor. Facing the front car it is to the left of the throttle body. It is the sensor that is angled up towards you and has a round connector...
Nah Jamal that is for a Wet Kit he needs the hook up for the dry kit. Great Info in the link though.. Have you sprayed on your car yet. I would like to know the times. Hope you get down to mid 14's Goodluck with the Progressive 150 shot
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/importkilla32/Bullit.JPG
i get it, so i take the vacuum line that is normally connected from the intake manifold to the fps and put in into the zex unti, and run the othe line from the zex unit to the fps
sweet thnx, sumthin just "clicked" and i get it now
i got a sig warning
boosted cavfire
Quote:
You do not need to tap into the fuel.
Knew that, just wanted him to see some break down pics of the 2200's fuel system so he knew where everything was! Stock FPR, all the lines and what they were, etc! I wasn't going to begin to tell him how to work with a dry set-up as I would never use it myself and have no experience with it
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Quote:
Sprayed Yet Jamal?
Yea just got it on about 3 weeks ago! I sat around researching for year before I installed. Once I felt good about it we threw it on and I fell in love. I've only went on a 75shot with what's listed in my reg, and with a 50 I stayed with a consistent 14.5sec hatch all 3 times we went at it.
I'm piecing together parts right now to go to a progressive 125-150shot using a single nozzle.....If it calls for it i'll jump to direct port! Good luck man and that Zex direct port might be the way to go!
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Good Times for mods
You sprayed a 75 on stock timing? Did you not have to have any timing retards?
I am debating on whether to get direct port or just get some fuel upgrades for now. I need some way to monitor fuel and I was wanting to go with trying to customize the Civic FPR that summit sells and get the gauge on that or try and tap one on the fuel rail. Either way the the dry kit is not too safe to spray at the moment. I hope to get it going and rep the 2200. Good luck with the Progressive shot. Hit me up on e-mail if you need any stock parts.
Also saw your video on streetfire.net it was cool as hell......
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/importkilla32/Bullit.JPG
Yeah stock timing, a week on NGK Tr71x plugs (1 step better than Tr6's), then the last two weeks on the Tr6's! Funny thing is, the entire time I forgot to go up to 92-oct.
So basically for 2 weeks straight and 3 bottle refills (i was literally spraying everyday) I was on stock timing, Tr6 plugs, 89-oct/mid grade gas, on a 75shot.
The car took everything well, every two days i checked the plugs and they were fine and there was no sign of detonation at all! I won't play my cards too much though. I want to get my ECU to accept 91+oct as the default fuel rather than 87 so the engine will run extremely better on the premium. I won't put in premo until I get that done because my car takes huge farts when premo is in ( feels really sluggish).
On the timing thing, the for sure fire answer is the MSD DIS-II but I want to find a cheaper route myself. I know there's other units/comapnies that are cheaper but I have to do some research and find a JBO buddy to converse with randomnly who's pretty knowledgable with ignition devices.
With your FPR idea, it works pretty well actually, AgentOmega did about the same thing and he has no complaints. Most FPR would work, problem is too many people are scared of tackeling the project. Or should I say, too many people look for direct fit/bolt on problem solvers rather than trying to bolt up something made for another car or mock something up theirselves.
Yea the video days were fun. Now that I have a nice little bit done to my car the cops had to confinscate the friggin thing for evidence on highway racing, mountain racing
Keep in touch Daniel, you seem like a good person to talk back and forth with for info and such! Later man
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
