i have a 2200 that im in the proccess of building the engine ok i gave the block to the machine shop on nov 1rst last year and told him i needed it after the first of the yr he said no problem all he had to do was the machine work and get bearings i bought everthing else the estimate was for $800 now ive paid him in full with a total bill of 1100 and he keeps putting finishing off he told me it was going to be finished at the first of feb which has come and gone now ! so do i be a dick and bust his ball or not i dont want him pissed and do @!#$ty work to finish but i need the motor . i sent the head to a different shop since he is taking so long so know im waiting on him .
here is my other question im taking a poll ive got a wet system nos set up direct port with every mod to support it and a fully built motor when it is finished and a built auto trans with slicks i want to run a 150 shot on it and hope to be in the 13"s ??? what is you alls opinions ??? should i start out lower like a 100 or a 125 shot or what ???
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
engine is a 99 2200
with volenia 30 over forged pistons 9:1 ,eagle h-beam rods ,cleavite main,rod,cam bearings ,all new internal parts,block is deck, honed,align bored , lightened and polished crank. the head has been p/p ,s/s valves,crane gold series roller rockers , crane p-rods, shaved 20ths.
the trans is a 3spd auto with a 2800 stall yank converter,redline clutches, and a shift kit . no axles yet.
ignition:
msd dis 2 with interface blocks and coil packs . magnecor wires and tr6 plugs
fuel:
walbro 255 intank pump,fpr switch,aeromotive adjustable fpr rc 195cc inj.
interior : autometer phantom gauges fuel ,oil , nitrous
nos direct port wet nitrous set up ,remote bottle opener , bottle heater,dual purge
exhaust wil be changed to a full 2 1/4 with a obx 4-1 header with rear o2 simulator
brakes have been upgrade also.
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
I'd break in the motor for a good 2-3 weeks progressively driving harder on it after that. Don't go too serious on it (i.e- spraying, going to redline, etc) but just start to drive more and more aggresive like you would operate the car in the future.
The first shot I'll spray on it is a 75 and just keep increasing by 25 every week until you have it where you feel it's straight. While you're spraying you should monitor your a/f and change the oil regularly until the engine starts to feel broken in.
I've helped build a couple engines and something always goes wrong because of poor break in time. People get anxious and wanna test it out too early and they wonder why a vlave hits a piston or why a piston pops through the hood.
I could link you to a 400whp B18c1 we just built before I moved back down here to Atlanta. Fully built to the hilt engine. Only running 19psi with the ability to crank it to the high 20s (and keep "efficient" boost). Broke it in for 2 weeks and got the final 3rd and 4th gear tune and took it out that night to a Test and tune. He called himself babying it down the track, even though I heard the BOV high hiss and vtec screaming, and put 1 and 3 through his new VIS c/f hood. Stupid man!
Ok story over haha. You should be ok man! Just be smart about your investment.
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
Hey I got a ? Why did u stay with stock comp pistons instead of 10:1 & why so big of
a bore other than that one thing that would help u out a lot is a nitrous controller we
have pretty much the same parts except differ fuel pumps & trannys so u should
get a good in 13's with out slicks if tuned right just test the water before fully jumpin in
like a lot of people run 50 shot on all stock motor I got a chipped piston from a 50 shot
on my stock bottom head already been done before the nitrous was on
