well when i hook up the venom vcn 1000 dry nitrous kit i have its been making the car lean out everytime its shut off then started up again, this has been going on since i got the kit but i just now started to look into what the problem could be. It works perfectly and everything but ill seriously have to hold the car's rpm's at like 3k til the air fuel gauge gets to ideal then its fine, anyone got any solutions? its not throwing any CEL or anything.
you messed somethign up somewhere... nitrous has absolutely no affect on anything while its turned off, you said its a dry kit so you shouldn't have any vaccum leaks or anything (direct port goes into the manifold, could have vaccum leaks) I dought your problem is nitrous related
i dunno man, i can unhook it and it starts up fine but as soon as its hooked up i start it and it goes "chug chug" and tries to die.
did you but the kit used? There is a possibility of the plunger being stuck. Is there a leak on the plunger on your nitrous siliniod? If your car is running lean at idle with the kit hooked up its a possiblity if you keep the bottle open all the time.
How do you have everything set up? does it go bottle->lines-> no2 filter->siliniod...
when you say unhook it do you mean the nitrous line from the bottle?
i unhook the ground wire from the battery and the wire to the injectors from the nitrous, the bottle is always off unelss im racing
does this dry nitrous kit have some kind of vacuum hookup to the fpr to add fuel while spraying? ot an electric controller of some kind? i'd check on those if you're having problems.
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^^No it doesn't.
Do you have the kit turned on when you start the car? The control module has an on/off switch like the VCN-2000 system, right? If it's wired correctly and you have the module turned off when yous tart the car it shouldn't have any effect.
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Hmm... I wouldn't trust those taps for anything. I'm not sayin' those are your problems, but I would wire it in right with a switch if for some reason it doen' have one like Ian said.
it is wired right. the switch is in the car under the dash i hit to have nitrous on or off but those taps i disconnect allows the switch to not be on so its like its not even there.
I'm just sayin' those taps are crap. Make sure you get in there and do it right.
how are the taps crap? thats the only way they connect.
I agree with TRD, the taps are not the right way to do it, granted them may work for now but on my personal vehicle or on a customers car I would not install those. The proper way is solder and heat shrink, infinatly more reliable.
Is it wired to your TPS sensor?
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I agree as well. Solder and heat shrink man. It may take a bit longer but it's not more expensive and in the long
run it'll save you time and money on fixing it.
As for you problem, it's really hard to say without seeing how your system is hooked up.
Did you ever have this problem before you installed the nitrous??
If your ecu is leaning out your air/fuel ratio, I'd have to say soemthing is messed up
with your sensors or controllers.
With the way that wiring looks, I wouldn't be surprised if one of them was grounding out or crossing with
another.
But like I said without knowing everything you have modified and hooked up and seeing how you've
installed everything it's difficult to say. I would recommend going back through the instal and double
check everything, take it appart and solder your connections. if it still runs poorly go to a professional.
sounds like you probably should have in the first place.
good luck
its fine when the air fuel gets up to ideal on the air fuel gauge so im not too worried about it right now and it was just a small problem i was looking into, im not gonna go to a professional nitrous installer lol if i can do it myself as what i have done with whole engine and rebuild myself and help of my machine shop.
well if you can rebuild an engine you can use some solder and heat shrink
if you were closer to chicago I'd just have you come out and I'd take a look at it
seriously, my step father does wiring for a living, well part of his living, and I told him I was going to use one of those on my wiring harness and he told me that all they are good for is adding resistance. In other words, they don't make the greatest connection to the system and can actually cause a short in your system. Listen to what these guys have to say, they are right.
Scott
When I boost, you boost, we boost
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You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.
I was reading some of your other posts and I was wondering are you seriously running a 50 dry shot on the supercharger without the reflash? without any fuel or anything manipulation??? This is your only issue???
Scott
When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.
I had a problem with my NX kit leaning out at start when i first installed it. Went back to the installer, and they ran a code check, reset something(i forgot what it was), now it starts great.
RaGiN Z (the fake 05) wrote:I was reading some of your other posts and I was wondering are you seriously running a 50 dry shot on the supercharger without the reflash? without any fuel or anything manipulation??? This is your only issue???
Scott
2.6 supercharger pulley, gm s/c reflash, 50 dry shotm 100% stock ecu except gm reflash, hptuners is getting ordered soon so then ill see some real track numbers. runs great other than alittle rich.
so, being that I am going to be doin direct port after the charger, I wonder if I could do a 75 shot..... hmmmm.......
Scott
When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.
RaGiN Z (the fake 05) wrote:all they are good for is adding resistance. In other words, they don't make the greatest connection to the system and can actually cause a short in your system.
actually adding anything adds resisance, even adding more wire but you are right i does add more resistance then simply connecting the wires. As for not having the greatest connection and causeing and having a short.... the whole point of those connectors is to create a short from one wire to another. A bad ocnnection thats not making connact is a open curcuit not a shorted curcuit
well now its leaning out when i hit the gas for some reason, i just redid the connections and the nitrous works and all but now when im slowing down and then proceed it trys to stall out (air fuel gauge goes to all the way lean) then it catches itself. any tips?
is this after a hard burn or just every day driving?
Scott
When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.
