well i put a post inthe tuning forum but didnt get much of a response . so ill try it here anybody ever tunned one at a dyno shop ? what will i need to take when i go ? what extra mods ? ive got a msd dis 2 for ignition timming and for fuel tunning ive got a little bit bigger inj (rc)and a areomotive adjfpr and a walbro 255 pump. its going to be a direct port set up . im hoping to get the eng in the car in about a month i just bought a 91 celica gts for something to drive while the car is down anybody want to help lol.


13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg

sounds good so far? what size shot you running? i'll get back at you....

this is a good topic, and I'd also like to know what some people would reccomend.

ok let me get you started

tuning in a nitrous car is alot like tuning a regular car, but youll find its much easir. heres why


a turbo car has plenty of variables boost at different levels and afr's all over the place

a SC car is a bit easir it boost off an rpm base and is pretty linear when it comes to tuning.

now a nitrous car though much more violent in nature, by theroy should be the easiest to tune. it is on one rpm base and a wot only. its very straight forward, this is why a simple fuel cell will suffice when it comes to a wet shot tuning.
whats great about it is you really dont need any A/F tuning you just plug and go. the cells are already setup for your aplication. thats why nitrous is so great


now there is one way to tune your nitrous for more power with a dry shot, but its complicated. I can explain but wont unless there is intrest.


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

so basically im going to have to just play with the timing and raise or lower the size of the fuel jets in the foggers while it is on the dyno .im planning on shotting for a 150 shot im hopeing for 275-300 hp to the wheels ?i think that should be capable for the car . im thinking of getting a progressive controller if there is a big traction problem but we will see since it is a auto with 17's on it lol.the torque converter should absorb some of the initial hit .


13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg

jamesn29 wrote:so basically im going to have to just play with the timing and raise or lower the size of the fuel jets in the foggers while it is on the dyno .im planning on shotting for a 150 shot im hopeing for 275-300 hp to the wheels ?i think that should be capable for the car . im thinking of getting a progressive controller if there is a big traction problem but we will see since it is a auto with 17's on it lol.the torque converter should absorb some of the initial hit .

Put the nitrous jets in, jet it rich on the fuel side, tune the timing, fuel jets, and fine tune FPR from there.

Bring plugs, a spare bottle or three, and spare jets. Being patient enough to test with the bottle at the same exact pressure (on your gage) every test pass will be a challenge, but worth it.

If your car has a stock ECU with a knock sensor, make sure you are plugged into the ALDL to see what the timing retard is EXACTLY, regardless of what you have programmed into an MSD DIS, etc.

A 150 shot is not small on a small cube engine. No need to think about a progessive controller with that size of shot on a FWD car, just get one.


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Project S-Bird