After debating I'v finally decided to go the spray route over boost, although when I finally do it, there's something I wan't to know.

Obviously the biggest thing you need to make sure of is that the car doesn't lean out. How do most of you keep an eye on this. Do you just install a fuel pressure gauge in the car (and know what the press should be), or is using an AFR meter or wideband a better idea, or will nitrouse throw off a wideband? I'm asking now because when I start installing my other gauges, I'm going to install the gauges for the nitrouse as well, (ahead of time) and do it all at once. Thanx guys, I need a game plan for where I'm gunna put them all.

I would go wideband over an AFR meter and fuel pressure gauge in the rail or more likely in the pillar.Also go with a wet kit,a little less worry with a wet kit.Look into blow down tubes and window switch for added saftey



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

You def wanna go with the wideband, and a wet kit.

Good Luck

I was planning on using an rpm window switch, dual soliniods (in case one sticks open), purge valve, bottle press gauge and so on. Will a wideband read overly rich when the nitrouse is spraying since there's more fuel and not more air?, Also a wet kit taps into the fuel line, and uses 2 nossles (one for spray, and one for fuel), instead of a dry kit that just injects nitrouse, and ups the fuel pressure (via the regulator), to add the fuel right? If I can make sure my car won't go boom, I cant think of a reason not to use it. Plus, can you get a 3 gauge a piller pod so I can have wideband, fuel press, and bottle press all on the a piller, or is 2 the most we can get. (although the bottle press gauge will be inop for awhile until I get a nitrouse kit) Thanx

Many 3 gauge pillar pods out there,only kit that I know of that "ups" the fuel pressure is a Zex kit.Just get a wet kit,NX is a great brand,probably the best solenoids you can buy,NX also has soft plume nozzles that work with a wet kit,basically one nozzle with one opening that sprays both fuel and n20 in an atomization pattern.Unlike my Edelbrock nozzle,tht has two opening, that sprays the nitrous and more shoots the fuel.I wouldn't spray more than a 50 shot on a "regular" basis.But some on this site have used a 100 shot on stock internals and ran a 13.3 with drag radials(NITRO)Jarrett Bejer(sp.)



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

Here is a good setup: Actuall nitrous kit, purge kit, bottle warmer, rpm window switch, blow down tube, nitrous pressure guage, fuel regulator ( a very smart thing to have in case you fuel pressure drops it will shut the nitrous off right away). And a wideband is really good to have when ur are using any kind of boost. NGK AFX makes good widebands they run from 230-280 shipped right to your door.

Now for a kit like that u might spend little over a grand, but i think its worth it.

Biggs has a good way of making a custom bottle heater he can explain that to you if you wanna save some money.

Cool, I am wondering about something, on a wet kit (what I'll use), you have to tap into the fuel line (don't know where yet), for the fuel to get to the nozze. Doesn't that lower the fuel pressure in the fuel rail a little, and slightly reduce the output of the injectors? Ive got a 97 LD9 5-speed, and by the time it has any NX system on it, it's gunna have an LO manifold and most likely secret cams (I'm buying the manifold and most likely the cams this weekend at a meet). along with everything else thats in my profile. Hopefully that will help increase the benifits. I am wondering how much I can get away with safely with that engine (50 easy, was wondering about 75), with stock internals and a stock tune, and how much ware it actually puts on the engine (it would only be sprayed 2 or 3 times a month). How much of an increase in acceleratin do you guys generally get when you hit the button, I'm wondering if its really worth the 12 to 15 hundred dollars. Also, anyone use remote bottle openers? Thanx.

If u are gonna spray few times a month I would def go with 75. But with 75 shot there is a greater chance of your clutch going out. Your fuel pressure is gonna drop a tiny bit but its still gonna end up in the engine when it mixex with nitrous. How much you wanna spray its up to you, I wouldn't go past 75 without fuel upgrades or pulling timing. Few people got away with spraying 100 shot. With a good bottle pressure you will get a good hit, just make sure you spray over when ur past 3k. Bottle heaters are good if you have your bottle in all the time.

I don't think you are gonna use it few times a month, I was saying the same thing when i got my kit. But once u feel the power youll wanna spray all the time. I refill the bottle every 2 weeks now.

Ha Ha I agree with Almir,you will spray more than you think,the power is addicting .If you spray at all you should really pull timing.I think I was told 1-3 degrees for every 25hp shot.MSD DIS 2 will be the best thing to get for that but expensive.There are a few in the class. for sale.and many on Ebay for a little cheaper than Summit or Jegs.If you are going to have a HO or LO mani on you should get the bigger tb and look into direct port systems.There are alot of pics on the Org. of dp setups with the HO/LO manis.Excessive spraying on stock internals can eventually hurt the motor and it's componets.Some people like redz have burned up a piston before.Teeing into your fuel line is the easy part just make sure things are tightened down or it will leak.Your fuel pressure shouldn't be affected too much as the line you t into goes to the fuel solenoid and won't open until you make it open.As far as accelleration,well,take some on this site who spray a 75 shot with supporting mods and go from a 15-16 sec car to a high 13 low 14 sec car.The best thing is to get a complete kit with bottle heater and all.But to what ALMIR was referring to on my homemade heater,you go and buy a $10 power inverter,ext. cords,and two non-auto shut off heating pads.Wrap them around the bottle and secure them with velcro straps,plug it in,turn it on and there ya' go,you just saved about $40.It heats as good as any normal bottle heater if not better.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

What I meant to say was that when spraying your fuel pressure will most likely change but prob. not enough to worry about,get a fuel pressure gauge to monitor it



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

I didn't know you could get MSD Ignitions for 2.4's, I"ve looked and couldn't find one. To be honest I'm kinda worried about damaging the engine, wich is why I wan't to do everything the right way. I've been told you can get away with a 75 shot safely on a wet kit especially if its direct port, I guess I'm looking for some reassurance that the car will be ok as long as I do everything right, but I wan't to run a big enough shot to make it worth it. The cars got around 70 to 75K on it (second engine and hadn't done the math in awhile), and I'm worried that "occasionally spraying" will cause me to start seeing blue smoke out the exaust, or worse. If I'll be OK with a 75 shot direct port (with the LO manifold), and everything else mentioned without significantly reducing the life of the engine, I'll do it, but it will take me awhile to scrap all that stuff together. I would love to get into the high 13 area, but I wan't the engine to last.

I wouldn't even worry,I have 125k and motor still runs strong,I make a 10lb bottle last a month unless I go to the track.Direct port is the best way to go but more expensive.And yes the MSD Dis 2 is perfect for our cars to retard timing.Also Wrench Monkey has a thread about the 2.4 MSD coil swap,look into that as well.If you plan on it being more a track car then 75 shot would be fine but you still should pull timing to be safe.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

Cool thanx man...hopfully the MDS 2 can be set up to advance the timing when not spraying (normal driving) that would be nice and kinda kill two birds with one stone. I should get on the NX site and find out how much everything will cost, I'll probably have to get things one at a time (exept the basic kit wich you can't help), since it will cost so much. Do the nitrouse lines come in a standard length, if not, how long do you think it should be if the bottle is mounted in the trunk? (for ordering purposes). Sorry for asking so many questions, it's just that nitrouse isn't something you wan't to install unless you know alot about the specifics, and I only knew how it works and basic setup stuff. Thanx again, it's hard to find people that actually know a bit about this on forums, and everyone is lucky to have people here that do. At least I know enough to get irritated when I hear some one use the word "nawse", I hate that.... a lot, and havn't been able to refrain from correcting some one to date.

If mounting in the trunk, a 14 ft. line,which I think is standard,will be sufficient,even with hiding the line.Lines from the solenoid to nozzle are 2ft standard,I believe.I don't know a whole lot about the MSD setup but need to research myself.I don't even have a afpr or wideband so I am basically just sprayin' a 60 shot with no fuel tuning or timing retard.Yeah I used to say "NAWS" as well till' I came here.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

I just spent over $300 finxing my A/C today, plus theres some other stuff that needs atention, god I wish all the money I put into the car went for upgrades instead of maintenance. If I'm gunna run DPNI on a LO manifold, hiding the system might be pretty hard, so I'll probably not even try. I've looked up some numbers and the nitrous kit from NX alone is $892. I can't seem to find anything on rpm window switches, fuel pressure safety switches, or backup solinoids for some reason but I found all the autometer gauges. Wideband=$350, fuel press=$192, electric NX press gauge=$266, and the gauge pod is $55. The purge valve comes to $117, that all adds up to $1872, and I haven't found everything yet. Looks like it's gunna be a lengthy project.

Ebay can sometimes be a friend I have a vert. so I yanked all the a/c componets out.There are some pics of HO DP setups and other DP setups that are totally hidden.But I look at it like this,if the car is gonna' be a track car or the occasional "street race", who cares if it's hidden.IMO only street racers that race for cash hide their stuff.Check other sites,those prices seem pretty high,and check the class. section.I have almost sold all my stock parts thanks to the class. section.And bought many parts from guys' here as well.Also met some cool people and seen some cool rides in the process.Backup solenoids you don't need,you can get a basic wet kit for under $600 and always upgrade to a dp setup.I guess what I am sayin' is that if your going to do a serious nitrous install,best to start with upgrading the bottom end first.If not just go with a basic wet kit with a pressure gauge on the bottle,arming switch, and a WOT switch.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

Nos makes the pressure regulator.

Ya your right, running stock internals, I'd be better off just running a 5 to 600 dollar wet kit with a single nozzle that srays into my cai, although I don't think I could resist getting a purge valve for the obviouse reasons.

By all means,a purge kit is recommended,and like I said NX and NOS make a soft plume nozzle that is better than my nozzle.



15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"

Like biggs said u def wanna have a purge kit, its mostly used to get air out of the lines, and a good way to check if you got nitrous coming to the selenoid. And if u like to show off