Ight so heres the deal some one annoyed me and got on my nerves yesterday and i have been saving my money to buy the Hahn turbo kit but now im just irritated and im doing this out of spite i guess
i have a 04 cavy 2.2l ecotec and i wanna be able to eat a stock sky redline and i figured ok lets think..... and ding nos came to mind i already have a full exhuast pacesetter header and intake what would be the best poison to kill my bug?? i need a good option from some one who has nos and knows what there are talking about point me in the direction i need to go.
on a stock eco the max shot you can run without worrying about blowing up your engine would be a 75 shot. and that's not going to be enough to beat the redline, he could be running high 12's. you won't come even close to touching that with a 75 shot. my guess is you'd still be at low 15's maybe high 14's with a 75 shot and your current mods.
Ok well we pulled the motor last night so I guess it's time to do some forg work they have some good stuff on allecotec.com what would you recommend on the pistons and cam
It's all stock and most of the stock redlines I have seen at the track have only ran in the low 14 to high 13 range
Well before you go out and buy new internals you need to have a game plane. Waking up one day wanting boost and waking up another wanting n20 are different worlds. My advice is decide which route you want to take long term <---- key.
If you decide to do n20 you can use the GM build book for a great reference as they did the work and the testing. It doesn't take much at all to run a 100 shot all day and that would be comparable to a redline. The build book is posted as a sticky in the performance thread.
Ok thanks. In your personal opinion what do you think would be better in the long run and would be better performance potential? N2O or building it for boost with the Hahn kit?
You should be able to pull him on a 50 shot.
Minor bolt-on's + 50 shot = ~180whp
More than enough to run a high 13.
Buy yourself some slicks to help with traction at the track and your laughing.
I beat up on those things all day with my all-motor car, I've never seen a stock one run in the high 13's.
Most are owned by yuppy old men that can't drive worth a @!#$.
Not to mention the LNF motors have a pile of torque management, at least I know they do on the cobalts.
They can be very fast, but stock I don't think I've seen one best at mid 14.
wow, i figured at minimum mid 13
No check YouTube to the only one you can find at a track are only running low to high 14"s
well yeah then find yourself a decent wet kit, bottle heater, wot switch, window switch if your'e auto, purge kit, nitrous bottle pressure gauge, at least 1 step colder plugs and at least 93 octane gas and you can run a 75 shot all day long. also pick up an msd retard box to retard the timing at least 3 degrees.
might i suggest
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/default.asp
have fun with the new found power!
blucavvy wrote:well yeah then find yourself a decent wet kit, bottle heater, wot switch, window switch if your'e auto, purge kit, nitrous bottle pressure gauge, at least 1 step colder plugs and at least 93 octane gas and you can run a 75 shot all day long. also pick up an msd retard box to retard the timing at least 3 degrees.
might i suggest
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/default.asp
have fun with the new found power!
You don't need to get an MSD retard box. For the plugs I woulds suggest Autolite 103's or NGK TR6's the NGKs are much better IMO but a little more money. I've ran with both. Don't cheap out with the bottle heater either you need that to keep prime pressure and get consistent runs I don't care who says otherwise.
Aren't TR6's and those Autolites both too short for an Ecotec head???
As far as I know the best plug for an ecotec is the NGK LTR6IX-11 and the LTR7IX-1, 1 and 2 steps colder respectively.
I drive a silver car wrote:You don't need to get an MSD retard box.
need? no your'e right. for a 50 shot. however retarding the timing is cheap insurance. the msd retard box is like 60 dollars. y would you not do it?
plus it'll give you a step up for running a larger shot in the future.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, October 26, 2010 1:53 PM
Awsome guys thanks i have a 5speed, I plan on goinh n2o I am building the motor as well its already out the car so I and i have got my money together i just need to know what pistons and cams for what im doing i already have the Arp head bolts and studs and im buyin a valve rebuilt kit most of it coming from allecotec.com any suggestions on my pistons im just gunna buy the stage 1 cams to keep from having any problems with codes.
If your doing all that build then boost the @!#$ out of it.
Saab Kit, GM Reflash, 10 psi
oh i plan on buying a turbo kit just not at this point in time i wanna take a shot at n2o and see how i like it if i dont i can change it :p
sky redlines aren't that fast unless they have full bolt ons, then they will see high 12's. My SS has the same motor just FWD so a stock one would run roughly high 13's to mid 14's depending on the driver. My buddy has some bolt ons and went 13.2 with his GXP Solstice which is Pontiacs version of the Sky Redline
I plan i building my motor and putting n20 on it then boosting it later and by the time its done ill prob be able to run 100 shot but ill prob just stick with a 75 ill be posting pictures of my build as i go on here.
keep saving for the Hahn kit...
Build the motor...
I have the hahn stage 2 with a built motor...
I'm buying the stage 1 cams and 8.9:1CR wisco pistons from allecotec
y are you buying the cams if your'e going to go turbo later?
