So a couple of days ago I am messing around with a mustang saleen (non supercharged - intake exhaust and pulleys over a stock GT). Well when I shifted from third to forth I heard a loud pop (really loud) immediatley I knew it was nitrous backfire. Nothing seemed to be wrong though so I did not worry about it too much. Well on my way to class today (I attend USF) I downshifted into third to pass a truck on the interstate and my car reved between 6000-7000 rpms and stayed there so I turned the car off and let it roll for a second or two then I turned it back on immediately the same thing. So I pulled onto the shoulder of the interstate and let it sit for 30-40 sec then I turned it back on and it was back to normal. the rest of the way to school when ever i wold get on it at all it would stick for a second. I was like wtf so I poped the hood to see if there was anything irregular under there and I notice the plastic part of my intake had blown off and the grommet that goes between the outside of my throttle body and the intake was stuck in my throttle plate.
So luckly nothing had really broke but if I were anyone else even if the car seems normal after you hear backfire you might want to at least pull over and check it out.
That is the first nitrous related problem and I have gone through at least 20--30 bottles on the 75 shot
oh god, you had me scared you bastard!
thank god it wasn't anything huge
you're very lucky whatever it was didn't go through and into your engine, that'd be some bad luck right there
haha yeah it was minor but still I was like wtf
still rollin strong though
Glad to hear everything is alright! Any leads to what may have caused it and any tips to prevent it?
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can we say "fuel pudling"???
"dude, thats a girls car"
yeah I would say fuel puddling but i would rather take the risk of blowing up my intake mani then throwing a rod through my cylinder wall
save tons of money on car insurance by switching to geico! ^^^^^
ok where the hell did that come from....
lol i'm way too cheap for direct port
I've been thinking it over and there has to be a real good way to avoid puddling right?? or am I wasteing my time thinking? (staying with a wet kit though)
owned by the quote command...
it should have looked like this...
04 ecotec LS Sport wrote:after you hear backfire you might want to at least pull over and check it out.
WELL DUH !!!! I am surprised you didn't !!
When I had a backfire my hood flexed up from the explosion. Also
it's not a minor thing.
The Ecotec intake manifold does not have a good design for single fogger wet nitrous. If you look inside you might see why.... I have some pictures on my home computer with everything explained.
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional."
Your basic stuck throttle
Why not run direct set-up, it's not really that hard to do.
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Jason---"White Knight"
Camaro Z28-SLP Cold Air, Air Foil, SLP Ceramic Coated Headers, B&B Tri-Flow Exhuast, Magnacore 8.5mm Wires, Power Slot Rotors, SLP Subframe Connectors, Manual Fan Switch, Nitto DR's, 3.73's, 3200stall, 1.6RR's NX two stage Nitrous MAF system. 1st stage 50hp 2nd stage 100.
1997 Cavalier ---- 2.2L (Daily Driver)
Custom Silver/Black painted interior, Sparco 4-pt, 4-pt roll bar
If I was going back to nitrous on my eco and running anything over a 50 shot I would go with a direct port setup.
You're right it's not much harder to do and is well worth the time invested
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"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional."
As far as 4cyl go, IMO it's the only way to do it.....most of the manifolds like you said are not good designs for single nozzles.....too un-even distrabution of the N20.
______________________________________________________________________
Jason---"White Knight"
Camaro Z28-SLP Cold Air, Air Foil, SLP Ceramic Coated Headers, B&B Tri-Flow Exhuast, Magnacore 8.5mm Wires, Power Slot Rotors, SLP Subframe Connectors, Manual Fan Switch, Nitto DR's, 3.73's, 3200stall, 1.6RR's NX two stage Nitrous MAF system. 1st stage 50hp 2nd stage 100.
1997 Cavalier ---- 2.2L (Daily Driver)
Custom Silver/Black painted interior, Sparco 4-pt, 4-pt roll bar
yeah i have seen the design of our intake mani --- and i also have a diagram on the cpu -- i probably would have stopped but there was an issue with a cop (he was behind us) so I turned into my neighborhood and then I went to sleep -- everything seemed fine though then the next morning when I drove to school I noticed the issues and fixed there in the parking lot
as for direct port --- i am thinking about selling the car but if I do keep it I might do either direct port or boost it one or the other --- besides I want more power
The lo and ho intakes from the old 2.3's are great N20 mani's for the 2.4, but I still run the plastic one. Every once in a great while I get a puddle on the 100 shot, so I get off the button and open her up to clear it out, WOOHOO! Not a single backfire yet.
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direct port is on its way for me
and forged high compression internals soon after
only cause you're gonna blow the @!#$ out of your current engine with that direct port, @!#$ head
If my aem intake wasnt bolted to the car I would have blew it across the room on the dyno. If you dont want it to puddle dont spray under 3,000 rpm. I punched it on the dyno at 2,000 and blew my intake eblow apart.
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you NEVER spray under 3-3.5K RPM's with nitrous. no wonder you guys are blowing yourselves up
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Live and learn. I had another elbow and we swapped it out quickly. After it was over we had a good laugh.
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hmm i was way above 3k when mine backfired
The WOT switch will only spray when the gas is punched, correct. So if the gas is punched from a dead stop, the nitrous will being spraying. I assume even though the engine is pushing maybe 2k rpms, if the throttle is wide open then the nitrous will spray correct?
Any way to prevent this from happening?
