I read in a post that with a Wet kit you can run a bigger shot safer. But i have a 2200 and its only got 38k miles on it so i don't want to jump in the deep end too fast.

So if i have on my car

-True Cai
-Full exhaust (including header)
-2 Step Colder Spark Plugs
-Aftermarket spark plug
-Bigger Fuel Injectors
-Fuel Pressure Regulator

Would i be able to run a 35 shot pretty safely???? If not, what am i missing that would run it safely?

and i know this sounds like a stupid question....but you can purge with a wet kit right?

thanks for any comments on this,
Alex

for a 35 shot you will be fine with that -- I would even say you would be good with a 50 shot

and yes you can purge a wet kit


You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan

(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)

Now with a Zex wet kit there is that computer program that only shoots the nitrous when your at WOT? right (which sounds like a great idea to me!)

Now my other question is i know alot of you have been saying that you shouldn't shoot the nitrous below 3,000rpm......Is there a certain Speed that you shouldn't shoot below either? (it wouldn't seem like a good idea to shoot right off the line)

Finally, What is the most common reason why engines blow from nitrous? Is it detonation (from what i read in some other forums)? Cause wouldn't a logical reason to stop that would be just to upgrade the fuel and ignition system? or is there more to it?

Thanks for all the help guys,
Alex

Also just to throw in there....I have a 3speed automatic! So am i in a sence safer running nitrous because i will never hit my rev limiter?

most kits are designed to be wot activated, either by a microswitch on the throttle body or a wire tapped in the throttle position sensor, and just don't spray in park or neutral or below 3000 rpm....if you can hook up, nitrous is best at low speeds, and most engines ive seen blow were because of stuck solenoids, puddling in the intake manifold, or just plain too big a shot (people running a 100 shot thinking its a 75) you should be just fine with a 35 or 50

and the automatic tranny is better imo for nitrous because you only hit the rev limiter if something is wrong with the tranny, under ususal operations you won't hit it


You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan

(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)

Thanks mikec for the help...i really do appericate it!

Oh yeah thats right...i have heard about the solenoids being stuck open....Is there any way to prevent that......Now if the thing does stick can't you technically go back to the company and get reimbursed for the new engine....just a thought

And by off hand do you know when the rev limiter is on a cavalier....(specifically a 2200 3 speed)...i think at WOT it only shifts a 6200 so i have a feeling you should be ok.

THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!

i owe you one

no real way to prevent solenoids from getting stuck, just hope it don't happen, and no, i don't know the 2200 3 speed rev limiter, i'd imagine around 6500.....one way to find out is to put the shifter in 1 or 2 and floor it until it stops, however that is probably a really bad idea


You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan

(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)

There's one thing I haven't seen mentioned yet, so I'll go ahead and say it.....

You really should invest in a good set of non-platinum plugs that are one heat range cooler than the stock plugs. No matter what size shot you're running, cylinder temps (and egt's for that matter) rise quickly when N20 is introduced to the combustion process. A set of plugs with a cooler heat range will help bleed off excess heat and keep your exhuast valves, rings and piston healthier for a longer period of time.


<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Jbeier_sig3.JPG>

Ok from the knowledge I have gained this is what I would advise for the most safe setup:

2 nitrous solenoids you wire them in series, so incase one sticks the other will catch it ~70 bucks i think

RPM Window Switch = adds secuirty which you set what rpm range you want it to spray at, so above 3k and below redline or whatever. = want to say around 50 bucks

Fuel Pressure Safety Switch = not 100% what this is for, just know it has been suggested before.

The colder plugs are a must as well like nitro said.

WOT switch does exactly that, trigger at WOT, so it wont spray unless its gettin the fuel needed.

Get into larger shots and look into the MSD DIS-2 ignition, so you can adjust timing a little.

oh ya as far as puddling goes, you could replace the intake manifold, there are some out there which are designed to eliminate puddling, this is the one thing I am worried about, and do not know how to fix outside of a new intake manifold.

RPM window switches are alot more than $50, but he shouldn't need one anyway, he's auto.

FPS switch is in case fuel pressure drops, so you don't lean out.


<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Jbeier_sig3.JPG>

i have seen them for around 50 maybe used, but still. Auto is still vulnerable to it, i duno when I do it im gonna add it just for added safety

Thanks for the added help....I was definatly going to get plugs sorry i think i forgot to mention that......but i did plan on going turbo for awhile ( I had a manifold and T3 super 60) but decided it wasn't what i wanted to invest in at the time. So thats why i really want to run my nitrous project the right way....(meaning new fuel injectors, FPR, etc.) minus from going internals. lol

Based on what everyone is saying i thought about doing a VEMON wet kit...(i know its a bit more expensive) but its comes with the nozzle that lets up adjust your shot from 15-100 shot....so i have a wide range to choose from lol

THen i will also invest in the 2ed solenoid, WOT switch, and RPM actuator (even though its automatic its just a safe way....cause the price of that is cheaper then a new motor)

THanks again for the help yall,
Alex

I ended up buying a NOS wet kit. I was debating for a while between ZEX and NOS....But i got a much better deal for a NOS wet kit....315 shipped w/ the NOS wet kit and purge kit!

^^^^ where did you get the wet kit for $315 shipped w/ purge?

pushrods wrote:^^^^ where did you get the wet kit for $315 shipped w/ purge?

probaly from ebay



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

nope. I personally don't trust ebay...i bought it in the classified section.

I know their has been allot of postings on Nitrous, but all I am looking for is a simple answer to a question I have. I have an Ecotec 2.2L, 02 Sunfire GT, I am going to put a Nitrous kit on, I do not plan on doing any upgrades at this point except the Nitrous, which kit should I install, wet or dry, what manufacturer and on an all stock engine, with being safe?

wet. I perfer the zex kit but its all up to you. Anyway as for the whole spraying under 3000 rpms is a no no. I dont see why not unless your spinning real bad.

def go with the wet kit i would say NX because that is what I have

Just make sure you buy from a reputable company and you will not run into any issues


-----side note----

------you do not trust ebay but you trust the classifieds----

at least with ebay you can read feedback and stuff

Thanks for the post, I will try the wet system and see what happens, it will be awhile though, I am upgrading my stereo right now. Pick and choose, oh how I hate it, so many things to do and not enough time.