has anyone here done a port through the back deck lid. My next project is a JL 12W7 on 2 MTX MXA8001. Im doing a giant banpass box, but i would like to do the port through the rear deck lid. I just want to know if anyone has done it, or has pictures.
thanks
could swear I saw someone do it on this site...
sounds like ass
dont make the ports to long or it will sound even more like ass
PPPSSSS!!!! MMMMMmmmMMM boost=yummy
well, the port has to be 24" long, so i dont think its a bad idea.
okay first off if you have the know how you can get away with putting the ports on the rear deck but if you dont then when you build your box if you mess up on one calculation then you will be screwed and you will proably pop your woofer and really have a crappy sound. I did a bandpass in a bently with two ten inch xtant woofers and had two 4 inch ports on the rear deck and you couldnt beat the sound quality that I got from that set up it was un real so what i say is give it a go if you need help im here kennygoinsjr@goinsauto.com
I love how the one guy who said it would sound like ass drives a VW, and not a cavalier. Remember - different installs can respond quite differently in different cars. Lastly, making a port longer (keeping port area the same) reduces the tuning frequency, which typically helps SQ. There, of course, is a limit to how low you can go (such as below Fs), but as a general rule of thumb it holds true.
My best friend ported his 2 JL12W6s through the rear deck, and it was good enough to win every single SQ event he entered. It is quite do-able and, in my friend's case at least, the SQ was phenomenal (then again, they were 12W6s).
From what I remember of his setup, the stereo shop mdf'ed and dynamatted the rear deck and cut holes for his 2- 6" ports. They slid his box in from the interior with his two ports slid as far into the box as possible. Once they lined the box up, they slid the ports up and through the 2 holes they cut (not quite flush - probably an inch or so sticking above the metal deck so they had enough material to properly attach and seal it). Once everything was in place, they bolted the box down, and glued/siliconed around the ports on both the box and rear deck (so they were sealed and firmly attached to both box and car). I suppose you could attach the end of the port to the rear deck with a flange of some form (like aeroports), but his never rattled or came loose. With the rear deck cover on nobody will see the silicone/glue anyway.
I say that, provided your BP box was designed/tuned properly, go for it!
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
Unholysavage wrote:I love how the one guy who said it would sound like ass drives a VW, and not a cavalier. Remember - different installs can respond quite differently in different cars. Lastly, making a port longer (keeping port area the same) reduces the tuning frequency, which typically helps SQ. There, of course, is a limit to how low you can go (such as below Fs), but as a general rule of thumb it holds true.
My best friend ported his 2 JL12W6s through the rear deck, and it was good enough to win every single SQ event he entered. It is quite do-able and, in my friend's case at least, the SQ was phenomenal (then again, they were 12W6s).
From what I remember of his setup, the stereo shop mdf'ed and dynamatted the rear deck and cut holes for his 2- 6" ports. They slid his box in from the interior with his two ports slid as far into the box as possible. Once they lined the box up, they slid the ports up and through the 2 holes they cut (not quite flush - probably an inch or so sticking above the metal deck so they had enough material to properly attach and seal it). Once everything was in place, they bolted the box down, and glued/siliconed around the ports on both the box and rear deck (so they were sealed and firmly attached to both box and car). I suppose you could attach the end of the port to the rear deck with a flange of some form (like aeroports), but his never rattled or came loose. With the rear deck cover on nobody will see the silicone/glue anyway.
I say that, provided your BP box was designed/tuned properly, go for it!
i do drive a vw but thats besides the point (plus mines a hatch)i have lots of friends try ports through the deck lid and most of them drive j-bodys but to each is your own if you make one mistake its going to sound like crap
PPPSSSS!!!! MMMMMmmmMMM boost=yummy
With any type of box, if you screw up on the dimensions, it sounds like crap.
i thought that he said deck lid... doesnt that mean the trunk, or am i missing sumthing here... i know the rear deck is the thing that the speakers are on an d i thought that the deck lid was the trunk??
hmmmm.... I am confused, and the Blonde genius that is me,
does not easily get confused
but i think we all got what he meant
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
Lanman31337 wrote:With any type of box, if you screw up on the dimensions, it sounds like crap.
Couldn't agree more - it's ALL in the install.
As for your friends trying it, Bob, who knows why it didn't turn out well for them. I know my friend's W6s were tuned even lower than mine were (so <26Hz), but it was so long ago that I can't remember his exact box specs. I know that he tried pointing his subs and ports both backwards, forewards and straight up, and his rear-firing, deck-ported setup hit the lowest and was most accurate.
The proof that it worked for him in his 1997 2.2 Cav is in the 4 big trophies that he has in his basement. His 2 rear-deck ported 12W6s and MB Quart components were good enough to beat every Focal and ID guy in Saskatchewan at the time. Not that there were many
, but when your $3000 stereo (including install) beats people who's 2 subs alone are worth more than that, you have to start thinking that the install had some part to play in it.
The 50-50-90 rule: Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there's a 90% probability you'll get it wrong.
you can port the rear deck and have it sound great I'm thinking about a 4th order bandpass for 4 12's.
if your just going to use one sub i would go with a 6th order bandpass and have one side ported high and the other side ported low. 6th order bandpass box's are great for sq.
but from what i hear they are a bitch and a half to build and tune and get right
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
i had lots of toys when i was young.slinky,etc.but once i found my penis,that was all she wrote
True bandpasses (not your best buy specials) are a pain in the ass to get tuned right, but when you do, they crush. I'm doing a 4th order bandpass for the sunfire wiht 4 12's
Lanman31337 wrote:True bandpasses (not your best buy specials) are a pain in the ass to get tuned right, but when you do, they crush. I'm doing a 4th order bandpass for the sunfire wiht 4 12's
they are hard to tune by yourself but if you have someone that knows how to make and tune them get you the spec's then all you have to do is cut and glue :-)
oh yea COPY CAT j/k
Or if you have a friend that knows a guy who can build 4th order bandpasses, it makes life sooooo much easier.
bandpass is the one note wonder, it'll be really loud at a certain frequency but IMO sealed is the one and only way you can get linear sound, but then again, im not an SPL guy so what do I know.
FIREHAZZRD wrote:bandpass is the one note wonder, it'll be really loud at a certain frequency but IMO sealed is the one and only way you can get linear sound, but then again, im not an SPL guy so what do I know.
you don't know much about bandpass box's do you??
we are not talkin about the bandpass you buy from bestbuy we are talkin about a real bandpass, the box's at bestbuy or whatever are tuned real high. a real bandpass is tuned lower.
A REAL bandpass will hit a range of notes, and hit them loud. If they were one hit wonders, Mark and I wouldn't be building them.
A fourth order enclosure (vented box) is a sealed enclosure with the additon of a port tuned to a specific frequency. The port extends the low frequency response of the basic sealed enclosure usually providing a lower cut-off frequency. The enclosure offers a good transient response (second to that of a sealed enclosure), good power handling within it's bandpass region, and excellent efficiency making it a popular choice for many competitors and everday users, but below the tuned frequency power handling is poor and damage to the woofer is likely to occur if over driven. Lowering the port frequency below that of the manufacturer's recommended frequency will only worsen matters and cause the sound to become "muddy"....bleah!
With any ported design enclosure, the largest port diameter or area should be used to minimize port noises (or whistling). Flaring the edges of the port is also recommended for the same reasons. Ports may be any shape, but a cyclinder is usually the easiest to incorporate into your design.
These enclosures are obviously more complex to build, less forgiving of design errors, and usually larger than sealed enclosures, but if done properly, they can provide that additional output a competitor desires
