I've had this question asked several times on how I did this. Here is what I did since I just wrote it up for someone....

Using two 6 inch linear actuators. The trunk latch can still be used if you push down on the lid for added security, but the actuators will not latch it on their own. I used a DEI 455 M relay pack to control everything through 2 momentary switches in the dash; 1 for up, and 1 for down. The base of the actuators are mounted to the strut tower bolts using a piece of right angle aluminum. Each ram bolts to turnbuckles, so you can control side to side leveling of the lid. Then the other side of the turnbuckle bolts to the trunk lid arm, which is where all the trial and error takes place to find the perfect spot allowing for maximum opening and then closing.

Be very careful taking your stock trunk lid springs off, those bars can break something when they snap free.







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got pics for clarification?

Here you can see the ram and the trunk lid arm. The big nut is just a spacer (before paint). The turnbuckles are turned backward along side the ram since the arms of the trunk lid are curved.

Also, use Ny-lock nuts so they stay secure but you don't have to tighten them down onto the actuator. The actuators need to pivot freely.





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i was thinking about using hood pins to hold my trunk down once i wall my car and put to many speakers in it.......anyone done this?

how much all the equipment cost ya?


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this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS

alot more detailed and better angled pics would be nice

Roughly...
6" actuators $50 x 2
451m Relay pack $10
angle aluminum $12
Turnbuckles $4 x 2
Ny-Lock nuts $2
momentary switches $1 x 2

$134 Total ball park guess.






^CLICK ME TO SEE HOW I BUILT EVERYTHING^ How To in Interior Forum