i have a yellow top and the big3 upgrade and i installed my 1500watt class d amp.......even when i rev to 2000 rpms my lights still dim like hell.......another yellow top and a bigger alternator should help right?
do thje alt first and what size is your wire
what gauge wires for both ground and power?
what fuse are you running for the big 3?
Im running way more 1500 watts on a stock alt, without dimming lights.
4guage throughout.....150amp fuse on all the 4 gauge
150 amp fuse is about pointless on 4 gauge wire. 4 gauge can only handle around 125 before it would start to get too hot, which is the whole point of having a fuse in the first place.
-Chris
Hifonics brutus amps are very overrated. If you're still getting dimming, go for a HO alt, seeing that you've already done your BIG 3. On only 1500wrms (with a yellowtop and big 3), if you're still getting dimming, think about buying another amp. I'm also running alot more than 1500w with no dimming on a 200amp (hot) alt and 1/0 wiring.
J.J. Lecznar wrote:... bring ur @!#$ over here and i wil blow what u have to hell.... ill put @!#$in 200 dollars on it...
*wipes tears from eyes*
Hifonics are also known to have larger voltage draw.
RE Audio
besse who told you that.......if 150 was pointless for for 4 gauge why would everyone package them together?
Lash wrote:Hifonics are also known to have larger voltage draw.
Bingo.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
i knew they drew alittle more but i didnt think it was that much
AWG chart
I have never seen a 4 gauge kit that came with a 150 amp fuse. Not saying they aren't made but I haven't seen one in our store, or any other shops I've been in.
-Chris
do yall sell stinger?.....and tsunami?.....or any of the metra brands?
I know that Home wiring at 4 AWG is onlt 125 amps, while the tsunami wire i specificly use is rated to 158 amps.
buda wrote:do yall sell stinger?.....and tsunami?.....or any of the metra brands?
Yes, we carry both stinger and tsunami lines from metra. My point is why try to cut it close to the point of being dangerous? It would be safer to put a 125 fuse on the wire, or if you need more current, upgrade to larger wire.
-Chris
Most 4 gauge kits I see use an 80 or 100 (cheapo block style) Audio Pipe/ Ultimate kits.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
hi i also have a cavy 01 and i want to kno how u guys do the big 3 im jsut waiting for my Kicker 0 gauge wire too get here this wednesday i have a Modded MTX 1501d and 2 12in 06 l7's
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:Ricardo Pedraza wrote:hi i also have a cavy 01 and i want to kno how u guys do the big 3 im jsut waiting for my Kicker 0 gauge wire too get here this wednesday i have a Modded MTX 1501d and 2 12in 06 l7's
What engine?
its the 2.2 4 cylinder i can get pics tommorrow when i get my amp in i just got my custom box if anyone wants pics
0 gauge wire is done the same way as my 4 gauge instructions. I know of people running 000 guage big 3 set ups.
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:0 gauge wire is done the same way as my 4 gauge instructions. I know of people running 000 guage big 3 set ups.
yea all my friends have the big 3 in 0gauge but i was wonderind if it would be harder to do in the car
Only 2 things i would do differently is get a circuit breaker and crimpless terminals.
well a circuit breaker is just a wise investment. Better to just flip the switch then to replace the fuse. And if you alt's regulator starts to go, it will trip the circuit breaker. It may take you a few fuses to figure out what actually was going on.
Also, crimpless terminals are alot better quality then any crimped terminal, also, they are much easier to install and the lower gauges wires.
Also, i run a small local business where i do alot of Big 3 upgrades and my Ultragrounds ( trademarked ).
There are always better ways to do something.
