I have this sub
12" with this
box
and this
amp
the box has the abilitie to be closed or open port should i close it off?
i wouldnt go with prefab boxes they seem to be tunes retardedly, so if you must go with the sealed one but id really suggest building your own...its not hard and you save money
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good. 
LOL
Sub:
800 Watts RMS
Vas: 1.91 cu.ft.
Sealed box: 1.2cu. Ft.
Ported box: 2 cu.. Ft.
Tuning: 40 Hz
Port Size: 4”(dia)x8.75”(length)
# of ports:1
Amp:
500W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 4 ohms, bridged
250W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 2 ohms
200W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 4 ohms
Box:
1.25 cu. ft. chamber with sealed or slot-vented capabilities
1) it would sound better sealed, or your gonna have to polyfill your box if you want a recommended internal volume for ported.
2) Your amp is way underpowered.
already got it i knew if i made it would be bigger and harder to take out so i picked out a setup based on weigh sound and watts
it works
yeah but the amp was one i have worked with before and for what i paid for it.
thanks thats what i was thinking and using the sae rms as the sub i have blown them doing that. now that sucks"rather be under powered and have a couple pennies more in my pocket than blow another sub'
Quote:
1) it would sound better sealed, or your gonna have to polyfill your box if you want a recommended internal volume for ported.
With a sealed enclosure you wont need as much power as per a ported enclosurer. A sealed enclosure responds quicker but is less boomier then ported, also you get less excursion issues with sealed then ported. The air sealed in a seal enclosure works like a spring pushing the cone back out, reducing power usage, but does not distort as much during fast beats.
also, 1 pound of poly fill is a pretty close measurement for 1 cu foot. And poly fill only cost about $3 usd per pound. So your gonna need about 12 oz. of poly fill to get to spec. But your gonna need something like a mesh screen to keep it in the box.
May i make one other suggestion though?
Find a good 12 guage wire for your sub hook up and amp hook up, In my personal experiance, i get the best results with 12 guage.
i was actualy going to run 10 or use two wires 14 guage same length twisted together in a rubber sleeve. the amp has these
wires
i just took out the 6 guage and used only the 4 thats why it looked so bad in this pic
the ground wire is only like two feet long and i had to mout the amp their
what i meant by 12 awg wire was the actual wire that hooks your sub to the box, and the box terminals to the (+) and (-) on the amp.
I use tsunami 12 awg subwoofer wire, with tsunami 4 awg for both Power and ground. My power and groud connect to the amp with Crimpless ring terminals. Which did help me, though i had to pay a bit more for them, my crimped Hooked spade terminals kept comming loose when i drived.
If you want to clean up your wiring mess, i can give you a few suggestions. If you drop the rear seat down, and pull off the trim that surrounds the opening, on the upper rights behing the trim panal, is a 1.5" opening which goes to right above your strut tower on the same sime. These holes are found on both sides. I have my power and ground through the hole on the driver side, and my RCA's on the passanger side. With doing that, most of your excess wire can be easily hide behide the carpeting in the trunk, and for simple, clean connections, just run the wires you need under the rear deck, suspended by zip ties or something like that.
As soon as i finish work today, ill take some pics for you for clarification.
cool i have zippy's just have gotten around to using them with my "spireted" driving Just keeping it the same place is becoming a challange. I bolted it down instead of screwing it on the side i could. I think i am going to ad another screw to the other side though. it already has three dents.
in the picture you can actualy see the first one on the amp.
thanks
