ok first off i want to say that i dont know the difference of what ohm, mono block, channels...and audio terms really. i tried to research it on the internet but i get lost. if anyone wants to help with that, it would be nice.

second here is what i currently have.
CDA-9856 Headunit
SPS-46C2 4x6
SPS-69C2 6x9

really what i want is to be able to turn it up loud and hear it well, but have a little bass. like all the inside speakers run higher or whatever so it doesnt get fuzzy, but have the sub so i can have some bass. anyone have suggestions of what to go with? where to get it. i was thinking some more alpine type S maybe but i dont know. you guys let me know. thanks a lot.




FOR SALE: (5) '95-'99 Z24 Rims

Well mono means just that, mono = one, so one channel amp would be a mono block amp.

Channels are the actual speakers. Each channel is usually 1 speaker. Example, im running a 2 channel amp, each channel is for 1 of the subs.

Ohm is resistance, i however am not good at explain it, so just wait.

Seeing as how you dont know much of car audio, I will explain to the best of my ability.

Ohms= Ohms is impedance, which is kind of like resistance, except its not a static (doesnt change) variable, it actually has a curve, when you take a multimeter and measure resistance, if you push the cone of the sub in, you will get a different value.
Ohms on the sub isnt as important, because most subs are 4 ohms. If you're getting 2 subs, look for the impedance on the box (or info on the site), and divide that number by 2 (if you're hooking up + to + and - to -). With 3 it's a little more complicated. When you get that new number (if both subs are 4 ohms, the new impedance will be 2 ohms), try to find an amplifier to match it. If you're getting a mono amp, make sure it says "2 ohm stable" at the very least, "1 ohm stable" will do the job as well.

Mono Block= See "Channels"

Channels= The number of.... well... channels the amp has. Theres no other word I can think of for them. Think of your TV for a minute, anything that produces sound through speakers has an amplifier. My laptop has a 1 watt amp for example. If your TV has 2 speakers, it has a 2 channel amplifier, or stereo amp. If your TV has only one speaker, it has a mono amp, or monoblock in the car audio world.

Watts= Dont bother with the "1300 watts peak" or whatever on the box of most cheap subs/amps (both will have peak and RMS watt numbers) Always look for a "325 watts RMS" rating on the box or on the site, this is what you will need. the peak value is what the amp or sub can get to for a split second without being damaged, but constantly played at that much power WILL destroy it (some subs are underrated so that last statement MAY not be true, search for recommendation threads in the audio forum) RMS is what it can handle constantly. always try to match the RMS ratings. If you cant, get them as close as possible.

Sensitivity (measured in dB per 1 meter), generally the higher this value, the louder the sub will get with less power.

Thats about all I can think of right now. If your wondering if you should go with 10", 12" or 15" subs, generally bigger means louder...... generally. There's alot of math involved to actually see which is louder, including calculations from the box it will be going into. There are programs that will calculate this for you as well.
Any questions you have will be answered here, and any mistakes i may have made in my descriptions will likely be flamed and corrected (LOL)

thanks so much for explaining that guys. ill read it over a few more times tomorrow. i wanna run like one 10" or 12" with a single channel amp then, what do you think is good for a decent price, again, it doesnt have to pound too hard, i listen to like...idk rock/techno/stuff like brand new, chiodos, fall of troy...you know. things with good instrument bass but not a whole lot of bass beats. thanks again.




FOR SALE: (5) '95-'99 Z24 Rims

Get a Type-S 10" or 12" in a sealed box with an old MRP-M350 amp.
Then go get a 4 channel (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) amp for your speakers. Go with the MRP-F250 or the MRP-M450. I would go the 250.
Thats if you want to stay Alpine. And I would go with the MRP amps just cause they are the older ones but are still great amps. And because they are older, you can get um for cheaper.

I have a TypeS 12" with a MRP-M350 amp in a sealed box and I love it, never had a problem. I'm actually debating selling the sub, amp, and box so PM me if ur interested.

-Seth

yeah im interested, but idk if you are bull@!#$ting me on the quality or anyhitng. can anyone confirm thats good stuff? not that i dont trust you, but i dont know a lot.




FOR SALE: (5) '95-'99 Z24 Rims

alpine has always been rated as one of the better subs out there. Not the loudest, but all I ever hear is alpine has super clean sound. Lash, wsywig and a couple other people on this site really know their stuff. they're usually around here flaming everyone giving out bad info lol

OK, Calvin, i see you learning a lot, and trying hard to give advice, sometimes some stuff you say is a bit blurry and sometimes downright wrong...

Ohms simplified: impendance(resistance) of the voice coils, since you seem to not want to spend too much and wanna stick to a single sub, i will only describe a single sub...
SVC= single voice coil... if u get a single coil sub, the subs impendance (most commonly 2 or 4 ohms), is just that... wire it to the amp, done
DVC=dual voice coil... meaning the sub will have 2 coils (and 2 sets of terminals), so lets say you got a dual 4 ohm coil sub... the coils can only be wires in series or parallel to either double or half the resistance... so you would be looking at 8 or 2 ohms of resistance
and on a dual 2 ohm coil sub, 1 or 4 ohms of resistance,,,

A mono amp has a single channel, they are used to power subs as left/right/front/rear imaging is NOT used with subs, the lower frequencies are less directional meaning they are harder to pinpoint where its coming from, and this is a good thing in sound quality...

Now first off....BRAND MATCHING AND BUYING BASED ON LOOKS ARE THE MOST RETARDED WAYS TO SHOP FOR CAR AUDIOS

With that said, for the most bang for the buck SQ(sound quality) system,... heres what i recomend...

Go to www.wooferetc.com and on the front page there is a set of 6.5 inch CDT Component speakers for $139.99 with free shipping and free speaker cable.. YOU WONT FIND A BETTER SOUNDING SET OF COMPS FOR THE PRICE I PROMISE!

And get a nice 2 channel amp for them putting out 75-150 watts per channel at 4 ohms (those comp speakers have a 4 ohm impendance)
Some good amps for the comps: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3185
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3186
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/3593

Now with that said, you will have some 6.5 inch midbass drivers and 3/4 inch silk tweeters up front seperated by a passive crossover, what this allows, is the lower frequencies to go to the 6.5 and the higher frequencies to go to the tweeter... that allows the speakers to not strain themselves trying to play frequencies theyre not built for, giving you clearer, cleaner sound at just about any volume.

And now with a nice front stage all set up, you would find that tossing the rears would actualy be benneficial to you, you want your sound to be coming from ahead of you not behind, rear speakers will end up dragging your stage back, and giving worse sound quality... plus the holes from the rears will give the bass somewhere to vent into the cabin from the trunk! 2 birds with one stone, and can sell the front and rear speakers to get some money back from buying new stuff

Now as far as the sub and box and amp go...
You sound like a realy nice SQ sub is more important than getting loud and boomy... my first instinct would be eD...their K series subs can be had pretty damn cheap on their web site (elementaldesigns.com) and free shipping too! a 13Kv2 with dual 2 ohm coils would be my first recomendation... allows you to wire down to 1ohm (for getting the most out of a mono amp) will provide great sound quality and still get decently loud, i would compair these subs to a JL W1v2 or JL W0.. a couple other subs i would recomend, but wiring options are cut short, as the W0 only comes in single 4 or single 8 ohm coils... luckily the W0 only requires 150 watts rms to perform at its highest, and finding a mono amp that puts out 150 rms at 4 ohms is real easy and affordable... so anyway... lets say you go with a eD 13Kv2 in ported box (tuned nice and low to around 28-30hz of course ) and amp for that sub would be a good Class D mono amp putting out 300-400 RMS at one ohm

So... for the amp I recomend....
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/3021

And now that leaves us with a box and wiring kit...
well for the box i will always recomend JD he builds amazing boxes at the lowest prices you will find custom built boxes at!!
So go to soundsthatpound.com and e mail JD, give him the model sub you want, and some specs on it, and the frequency you want the port tuned to (for the eD 13Kv2 i recomend 28-30 hz)
and for wiring, well, Phoenix Gold has a nice 4 gauge dual amp wiring kit on Onlinecarstereo.com that will work for both those amps, just gotta buy RCA cables ..

And also one more thing...some 3/4 inch MDF spacers/baffles will be needed to mount the 6.5s in your doors... im sure JD can whip some up for you as well! anything else, just ask, i think i covered all the basics



On the other hand....you have other fingers.

I just bought a 20 inch widescreen ultrasharp flat pannel..I'm going to have to subscribe to the high quality porn places now......damn

Brian Anderson {1999-Z24-4spd} wrote:yeah im interested, but idk if you are bull@!#$ting me on the quality or anyhitng. can anyone confirm thats good stuff? not that i dont trust you, but i dont know a lot.

Na, I hear ya. I do the same thing when i'm buying stuff I don't know about.

Honestly, I love the sound of my sub. It's definately not the loudest i've heard which was prolly a kicker solobaric in like a 5 cube box or somethin in a cavy - it was HUGE, but that doesn't mean it won't get loud for you.
They aren't as tight as say a 10 would be, but if you aren't usin them to show off, they can be quite musical and used for accenting the lows.

The amp is great. It's 350 watts which is a nice size for what you want to do. I've NEVER had it over heat or even really get hot. It's gotten a little warm, but never hot. The only time I ever had it not work was when I was trying to hook it up to subs that I had wired in at 1ohm, since the amp is only 2 ohm stable.

The box that I have is an Obcon box...
originally built for 2 12's and is originally a $230 box. Depending on which one it is, I'd have to measure it, but it's either 1.6 or 2.5 cubes for the whole thing. When I bought my 2 subs of ebay, 1 came with a broken voice coil so I went ahead and screwed/sealed a piece of mdf to fit over the hole so I would have 1 big sealed box but you could get another sub and take that piece of wood off and put the other one in.

I'm also trying to sell my headunit so if your interested in that too, but it looks like u already have an alpine HU.
PM me if your still interested, I can get pics, prices...

-Seth