so my buddy has the 1000/1 taht he used to run his 13W7 and the amp gets so hot that u cant even touch it and the thermal light comes on but the amp does NOT shut off, anyone know wahts up with the amp? hes running 0/1 gauge kicker wire
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
what load is he running it at? 3 ohm?
and where is it mounted?
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ill have to ask him what its wired too, he had it mounted on the back of his box when he first got it but changed it so when u pop the trunk its sittin ontop of the spare tire cover
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
damnit why cant we edit posts? lol heres a bigger pic as photobucket resized it cause it was close to 1mb in size
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
tell him to check, and double check, then TRIPLE check his grounds.
I have that amp, it gets warm, but never hot. Never kicks on the Temp light, and Never shuts down. I BEAT THE CRAP OUT OF MINE!
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well i was talking to him yesterday and he says when hes at a red light his car almost dies cause of the voltage drop, i have a feeling he needs a better alt on there
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
big 3 and a better battery
has a yellow top already but never did the big 3 for some reason
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
the 1000/1 is designed to put out rated power at 1.5 ohms, and a single 13w7 wired properly is designed to deliver that load for the jl amp. jl amps are also designed to not shut off when pushed to the limit but rather to reduce the powwer output on its own to allow the amp time and "space" to recover... do yourself a favor though, give it plenty of available power- through a large cap or extra batteries. they have been known to burn out when comtinually stressed.
another thing- that amp will deliver its rated power, the 1kw, from 1.5 to 3ohms. Your sub is a dual 1.5 ohm, really designed for dual 2 500 watt amps or dual 1kw amps if u are so inclined, it will love it. Depending on how it is wired, it is at .75 ohms, or at 3 ohms- wire it at 3 ohms, its easier on the amp. you will still get your power, at a cleaner distortion rate. your amp prob will not play at 1 ohm or less any way. space your amp off the floor a little more, and get it a little more airflow over the whole package. if you are have issues at idle, it will cause the amp to have to work for power= make excess heat. plus, make sure the ground is short, and is at least the size of the biggest power cable. jl is good stuff, but is power hungry. remember heat takes life out of these components. so does power starving. hope this helps.
ummm i never heard of a sub specificaly designed for dual amps... chris.... umm... yeah anyway.... now that my eyes are done rolling
you are correct in saying that JL amps are very power hungry. they are notorious for being inefficient, i have seen many slash amps getting warm, a nice lil amp rack with even some small like 80mm comp case fans for push/pull cooling will help tremendously, and also mount the amp spaced up a bit, sort of on "feet" to allow some air flow underneith as well, keeping ur amp cool, wether it be JL or any other, even more efficient amps, is a good idea. couped up in a trunk all day gets hot, you lay in there all day durring the summer, you wont blame your amp for bltching at u with a protect light lol. i realy dont blame the amp, its the nature of the beast to be slightly less efficient than impendance specific amps, the amps designed for alternating imprendances while keeping the same power output just run less efficient and get hotter... and plus, wouldnt u want a sexy amp rack for that thing, with all the money dumped into high end audio gear, why such a cluttered and ugly install? as mentioned before, big 3 upgrade will make a world of difference, i realy dont think a second battery will have enough pros in this situation to outweigh the cost. if spending more money on the electrical system is a must, and you already are running a yellow top, i would upgrade the alternater far before getting a second battery.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
I just bought a 20 inch widescreen ultrasharp flat pannel..I'm going to have to subscribe to the high quality porn places now......damn
hey its not my trunk lol my buddy put it together real quick for a show he was going to
im going to see him this weekend to take a look at it and see what his volts are at
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
actually, do the math, and look at the power handling of the jl sub and the power offerings of their amplifiers. now look at their suggested impedence that the amps be run at= 1.5 ohms (1.5 - 4ohms really, best being 1.5), which just so happens to be what one voice coil of the 13w7 is. anyone else's voice coil 1.5 ohms???? my 13w 6's arent.(yes, i know some others are but were talking about his subs) i highly doubt that they made a sub designed for someone elses amps to benefit from. not tryin to be smart here. just got a lil bit of experience with these toys. just a lil. and oh yeah, the 13 w7 WAS originally designed to be run with 2 500 watt amps, one per voice coil, till they came out with the 1000/1. that IS why it has the dual 1.5 ohm coils. that comes straight from the JL AUDIO camp. proof-? they are most effecient at 1.5 ohms, and consistantly will not play below 1 ohm, they just plain dont like it- the amps shut down. your choices, 2 amps at reccomended impedance,or one at twice, which there is nothing wrong with either really in this case. (and if the extra batteries wouldnt work, then i wasted over a grand settin up and buying my 4 extra. i dont think i did.didscharge rate is a little slower than a capacitor, just a little, but is for a far more useful amount of time. and again, less work gettin power can and will drop temps.. all that for 2 1000 watt alpines on 2 13w6's, and theyre the more efficient of the 5 amps in the car.... ) guess how i learned all of the above info??? working with JL AUDIO and ULTIMATE AUDIO on what equipment to use in my cavfire.... my mrmd1001's are only 2 ohm stable, and i didnt want to push it so i went with the 2 ohm choice- the w6. i had to call JL to ask about the voice coils, and that is where i learned about the design and the 2 amp original design. 500 watt isnt alot when u think of pushin that monster... thanks.
NO ONE IS TALKING ABOUT YOUR SET UP OR YOUR BATTERIES, I WAS TLAKING ABOUT THE PERSON WHO ASKED THE DAMN QUESTION IN THE FIRST PLACE, DONT GET ALL HIGH AND MIGHTY ON ME SHUT THE FUK UP ....anyway....
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
I just bought a 20 inch widescreen ultrasharp flat pannel..I'm going to have to subscribe to the high quality porn places now......damn
you know, all i was doin was trying to give an explanation of why that was the correct answer as opposed to pulling something out of my butt as some people do on theses sites so that he, and others who read this, can gain some knowledge and fix a problem, and know why it works that way. the best way to learn is through trial and error/ or the cheaper way, someone elses. people like yourself who think you know something about stereos give those of us who actually do know what we are doing a hard time because.....?? dont bother answering. im really not interested.
um i dont know anything about car electronics and audio? are u kidding me? wow im not getting into an internet pissing match here... you need to learn when to put ur foot in ur mouth dude... anyway... im done in this thread. no more retarded arguments with people like you, for me!
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
I just bought a 20 inch widescreen ultrasharp flat pannel..I'm going to have to subscribe to the high quality porn places now......damn
never said you dont know anything, but take this in mind. i had my first job installing stereos in 1989. ive never gotten out of the industry. im just trying to pass real world knowledge, not make enemies. if you want to be one, thats your choice. you sure came off as a world class jerk. im wavin the white flag. if you think im wrong, so be it. sorry it went down like that.
well i took alook at the car today and on a good bass hit the volts drop down to 11.9
he has a VR6 120 amp alt. that hes going to get built up abit and drop it in......hes currently running my spare RF 1000.1BD amp wiht no issues
FDP 62MM TB, FFP Performance Chip, FFP Underdrive Pully, WAI, Hi Flow Cat, 2.5" Catback, Functional Ram Air Hood, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Wow!
Zero to caveman retarded in 17 posts....
Why is this forum seem so much worse than other forums for people getting into these stupid e-pissing contests?
Geez guys....
Anyone who knows anything about car audio knows that DVC speakers are designed for flexibility in wiring. Period. Whether that means one amp per coil, or parallel/series wiring etc.
If the car almost dies at red lights, adding a capacitor is probably the biggest waste of money he can do. There is either something causing an abnormally rediculous amount of current which the electrical can't keep up with (such as a short in the wiring, short in the amp etc), or something in the electrical itself has gone south.
Go to autozone and get the alternator checked out, along with the battery. If they both check out, make sure that all your connections are good, and upgrade the BIG 3. If he's still getting these voltage drops, take that amp out and get it checked out.
Being the betting man that I am, my money is on it being a faulty amplifier.
J.J. Lecznar wrote:... bring ur @!#$ over here and i wil blow what u have to hell.... ill put @!#$in 200 dollars on it...
*wipes tears from eyes*
amen. ill agree with you 1000% no more technical answers here for me. im back on osm and elite for stereo talk. lol. sorry for that guys
