Ok i've taken the car to the dealer and they can't figure out what's wrong with it. They said at first they couldn't communicate with the new computer, then they did a few things and were able to communicate with it. Then they said they were unable to communicate with the BCM. They, at this point, are baffled they said. They told me they recommend removing the remote start and reverting back to factory specs as far as the wiring goes and go from there. So the question at this point is where can I get a wiring diagram to help me with this? They said for them to get it all back to factory spec it would take rougly 6-7hours and I wana save as much money as possible.
Removing an alarm doesn't take 6-7 hours...
Im sure I could deinstall one- and do a nice job too in about 25 minutes... Theres not much to it.
^^^
What he said. Especially if it's only remote start.
Most of the wires should be right under the steering column and you basically just have to connect like wire to like wires if they were cut. It's a little more involved but thats basically it.
-Seth
yeah theres nothin "hooked up" but the ignition basicly. No power windows, no power locks, no power trunk. Pretty straight forward then?
The only wires that should be cut are the starter wire if the remote start has a anti-grind feature and the passlock data wire. The rest should simply be tapped into.
-Chris
^^^^ What he said.
Go to the relay for the starter kill, connect the wires, then literally unplugging the unit will have the same effect as removing it. Just tape up the plug so the hot wires do not touch anything metal. Or, for a more "professional" apperance, cut the wires as close to where they are tagged as possible then tape up the ends. Do you plan on having the remote start after your issues are resolved?
Also, just so you know, if the remote start was done professionally, you should no problems with it and the dealer just wants your money and to give you a hard time.
Sam
Ban low-performance cars, not high-performance ones.
ok so I've had no problems before with the remote start at all. But I don't feel like takin it to ANOTHER dealership and payin the diagnostic fee........This place was supposed to be good and they spent 2.5hrs diagnosing it and chargin me $180 I would trade it in but its kinda hard to trade in a car that doesn't run.
What kind of alarm/remote start is it? I might be able to walk you through it over the phone?
Sam
Ban low-performance cars, not high-performance ones.
ya know i'm not even sure. Coolstart maybe? Ziebart installed it
its a Crimestopper CoolStart 900v. I took a look at it when i got it back from the stealership. All the "splices" were done with solder so i just clipped em as close as i could to the original wire and wrapped em back up with electrical tape. Now its doin the same thing it did before; starts then runs for 2 seconds and shuts off. Could it be the BCM? I just wanna get this thing goin again so i can trade the F*CKER lol
Is the security light flashing? Sounds like a passlock problem. See if you can find the passlock bypass module attached to the remote start and see what brand it is.
-Chris
Wednesday i'm gonna try n find a neighbor or buddy with a battery charger so i can do the pass-code relearn n see if that works. If not i don't even care about puttin the interior back in, its gettin towed to a fcukin stealership n gettin traded
runnin or not!
Besse wrote:Is the security light flashing? Sounds like a passlock problem. See if you can find the passlock bypass module attached to the remote start and see what brand it is.
Could be the problem right there.
Unless....does your key have a little black pellet looking thing on it? It's possible that the resistor used to bypass and remote-start your car went bad and is not correct, causing a security light to come on as well.
Sam
Ban low-performance cars, not high-performance ones.
