Ok well I did a quick look at the sticky and determined that at idle the appox. output of the alternator is 70A and at 2000 rpm approx. 120A. So anyways my first question is should I be good running a rockford fosgate 400W 2 channel amp and a kicker zx350.4 while keeping the oem alternator. According to the mathematics and such I believe that I should be good but I am just looking for some additional input.
Next question is in regards to the turn on wire. Do you think that I should hook up a relay for the turn on wire? I understand that the amplifiers are going to be pulling some decent current but is it enough to justify hooking up a relay or just splitting the one wire to the two amps.
Last question is in regards to using a distribution block. I have seen fused and non-fused versions but don't quite understand the full concept. If you get the fused model does it need to then go right off of the battery in the engine compartment or do you still run a fuse right off of the battery then the single wire back to the distribution block. If I decide to go with the non fused block do I need to upgrade the fuse that I have at the battery already?
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
as for the amps allot of people are running over 1000 watts on the stock alt without any problems whatsoever. im pushing 1200 watts without any issues, i'd just suggest upgrading the big 3 ( see big 3 post in this forum if u dont know what that is)
for the turn on wire its generally good enough to power to items. when you hit 3 i'd definatly get a relay.
for the distro block generally fused is used for the power and the non fused is used for the ground. any time you divide wires you should put a fuses on the wires. so a fuse at the battery, then your power wire back to your trunk, mount the fused distro in the trunk with your amps etc and then to your amp. your protecting the wire with the fuses not the equipment. all your equipment should have fuses built in to protect it. the fuse protects the wire. if a wire is grounded out and it is not fused it can get hot enough to instanlty melt and possibly catch fire. the coverings on the wires will emit toxic fumes that are harmful to yoru lungs if they catch fire. i had a guy show me a grounded wire, we watched it melt was just a 16 gauge wire but was 20' long and i pretty much watched it melt instanly the entire wire. was pretty cool but wouldnt be cool in an accident if you were trapped in your car and the wire catches the carpet on fire.
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I will have to do a little more research on the Big 3 but I was thinking about looking into that anyways. I don't really plan on doing any other audio besides the two amps, one powering my 2 10's and the other powering the rears and the components up front. Also just so that I am understanding you right I came up with this quick drawing.
I am going to need both the fuse right off of the battery and the fuses in the distribution block correct?
And obviously all of the speaker wires and RCAs.
looks like you got the idea.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Offical dealer for the following-
SOUNDSTREAM
DB LINK
DB DRIVE
PANASONIC
GARMIN
ROSEN
SCOSCHE
XE DESIGNS
SOUNDGATE
PAC
LITEGLOW
i am currently running approx 1600+ watts(cont) off my stock alternator, and have thankfully had no real issues, but i also run a yellow top altima under the hood- a great investment... as for turn-on wires, the amp uses no real amperage from that wire, just needs the solid 12+ volt (some just need 10) signal to turn your amps on- im running 5 off one 12ga thru a small distribution block.
your diagram for the power seems to be pretty sound, just remember, bigger can be better= go with wire that can handle more than your throwing at it . never make your ground smaller than your power either. upgrading your underhood grounds can help you also. sndsgood is dead on with his other point too- fuses within a foot or so of ANY POWER SOURCE may save you buttocks in a bad situation. i actually run fuses before heading into my amps (which are fused too) at the amp for double protection.
if you compete, you cannot have the rpms above 1600, i think was last years number, but ive heard that changed this year- ill have to double check this years rulebook
hope this helps you