Ok, I've done a search none came about to my actual question. The instructions I have with my capacitor are not clear at all so, how actually do you charge the capacitor? Details please..

Thanks

if you have a spare light neon light or a bulb or somehtign laying aorund use that.

The way I charged mine. I hade the capcitor and a battery charger and a neon light with the wires still there. Hook the negative of the charger to the negative on the capacitor. Hook the positive on the charger to the one wire on the neon and then the other wire on the neon to the positive on the capacitor. The neon light will light up as it charges and it will get duller and duller, once the light turns off the capacitor is charged.


basically you want somethign that will use power on the positive side before the cap so it doesn't charge up to quickly.

thats it? I bought a Tsunami cap a while back and it came with a bulb bulb it was broke so I thought I was screwed. I thought it had to be a certain resistance or something.


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2003 Cavalier LS Sport "SHOCKWAVE"

Ok, I have my entire system wired including capacitor. If I leave my circuit breaker in the off position and clamp my test light to the positive terminal of my battery and the other end of the test light to the power wire thats connected to my breaker will that work?

This is how I did it, might seem a little simple, not really sure. When you get the cap, most of them will come with a little resistor to hook up to the positive lead, and the directions will say let it charge to 12V then remove the resistor. What it doesn't say I found is how. I stumbled accross a website online Here which helped a lot in explaining it. If you have your amp wired through the car battery and ready to go, you can simply remove the fuse from the power cable coming from the battery, and replace it with the resistor. It will allow you to charge the cap, which should start charging right away (I've found in some cases you need to start the car and leave it run a few minutes, but it should be ok to turn the car off again to let it charge). You'll need a voltmeter if your cap doesn't have a digital display in order to determine where it's at. It's not going to get all the way to 12V and stay there though using this method, but this is how I did it, and it was bouncing from 11.94V to 12V and back when I decided to put things back, and my cap's been working A1 since. If you do need to use a volt meter, simple positive to positive, negative to negative will work. The article above also says you can read the resistor which should go from 12V down to 0V and it'll be charged, but I never did that, since my cap has a digital display. I let it charge about 30 minutes or so and it was fine when I came back out.

you dont have to charge a capacitor be4 an install......it will charge itself when u turn on ur system the `1st time if the install was done right

Weston Nicola wrote:you dont have to charge a capacitor be4 an install......it will charge itself when u turn on ur system the `1st time if the install was done right

You might get away with it, or you might pop fuses, or you might burn stuff out because of the momentary spike of current on the electrical system. Pre-charging is in the instructions for a reason.



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do what dark said except with a test light....

So I have just bought a 1.5 F cap. And I am debating on installing it? Just do to it getting close to winter and don't want to have to come out to a dead battery? So I have a few question. If I install this does this one with the Voltage Display still suck power from the battery? And If The Battery freeze's will I have to rechange the Cap? And If I have to boost this will it be bad to leave connected to the system?

I am also wondering if the caps could be connected to 8 guage connection block.

I have a 6 gauge wire run from the battery to the trunk with a battery block that has a 6 guage in and 2 - 8 gauge block? Or Should I connect to the 6 gauge to the cap?

The cap should be connected to the + terminal on your amp with a piece of wire that's as fat and short as possible. If this cap has no monitoring electronics, it will not drain your battery. Even if it does, the draw is so small that if you drive the car once a week or so, it will pose no threat. Personally, I think caps with additional electronics are stupid, but to each their own. If the cap is smart enough to tell you its voltage, it should be smart enough to shut off its blingtronics when the voltage drops past a certain point. As long as the cap is connected to power, you won't have to recharge it.

2002 Cavalier 2200 5spd

Well I looked again and well that 6 gauge is more like a 4 gauge wire. Opps.. Yea. It does have a voltage montior system, I got it more less a show toy? I should also say I am connection 2 different amps to this using 1 - 8 gauge to each amp. I am think I will hold off on doing this till spring. and Just get some new speakers and get all the wiring ready for all the amp.