i started building my box today, it would fitt perfectly behind my back seat facing forward....but. its too big to get in the trunk.
the front face is 17.5"H x 35"W so it fits the space perfectly. then the box is 35" x 16"H x 9.5"D. using 3/4 MDF.
i have an MA audio 1500xl with a mounting depth of 7.8" and a mounting diameter of 14.1" the inside dimensions are 8" x 14.5", so that has to remain my minimum.
i have a few options.
1. the box will fit if i can mount the front while its in the car because i can slide the whole thing in from the front. this would make the box semi-permenant and i wont have to worry about theft
i like this option the best however im not sure if this is accepted in common practice, for problems with sealing and such.
2. the lip that seperates the cab and the trunk; i would slide the box in through the cab so the face plate is in front of the lip. this brings of the problem of the sub hitting the back seat when its up, and the back seat resting on the amp and cap( i could always move these, but i dont want to)
3. angle the bottom edges of the box so it fits in through the trunk. i dont like this option at all.
4. somebody come up with a design thats 2.25 CF, with a face plate 35" x 17.5"
so what do you guys think of option 1?
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
it will work, but i dont like the idea... have you tried removing the bottom of the back seat (the part you literally sit on)? when thats not in there, the back seat folds down a little bit more. might be the extra bit of play you need to get the box in.
1997 RedR - ZedR
Remove the plastic trim panels and cut some of the metal away to make a bigger opening, after the box is in replace the trim panels and no one is any the wiser.
Quote:
Remove the plastic trim panels and cut some of the metal away to make a bigger opening, after the box is in replace the trim panels and no one is any the wiser.
Quote:
have you tried removing the bottom of the back seat
also when your remove the seat, also remove the metal bracket that it the "hinge", that will give you a good inch or so to slide it in. Hell I think I removed all my seats and then put the box it.
yea, you'll need to remove the back seat. You have to pop out the bottom to take the back part out. it's easy
cut the triangle metal portions out as needed, use a cut off wheel..sawzall, jigsaw, whatever you got.
the box should slide in easily after that.
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I have not measured it up before, but even taking out the rear seat back might give a little bit of room,
not sure if this is what wysiwyg was leading too, but it might work, if not a little trimming of metal is not too bad of a choice as long as you don't take too much out, never know what might be structural.
wow, thanks for the responses. i built the box and its SO close to fitting in. if i wedge it in facing down a little the face clears the trunk "spring adjusters" but then when i tilt it upright those are in the way. so i might cut those out. when it stops raining i'll see if the triangle peices being cut out would help. anyone know which way to pull those trim peices out? they seemed to be attached to the really really big ones that make up the back half of the interior. im thinking i might just paint the whole thing while im at it.
im gonna post pics when this is done. 15" sub, 800w(rms) amp, and a baby cap hidden away till i fold down my seats, then they're all lined up right there with a blacklight making 'em shine. i love it
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
drinkingoctane wrote:wow, thanks for the responses. i built the box and its SO close to fitting in. if i wedge it in facing down a little the face clears the trunk "spring adjusters" but then when i tilt it upright those are in the way. so i might cut those out. when it stops raining i'll see if the triangle peices being cut out would help. anyone know which way to pull those trim peices out? they seemed to be attached to the really really big ones that make up the back half of the interior. im thinking i might just paint the whole thing while im at it.
im gonna post pics when this is done. 15" sub, 800w(rms) amp, and a baby cap hidden away till i fold down my seats, then they're all lined up right there with a blacklight making 'em shine. i love it
you won't fit it in from the trunk, you need to go through the interior.
the triangle plastic pieces just clip on. Pull out each plastic pin and just yank them out.
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ROSEN
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PAC
LITEGLOW
i would have to cut away too much material if i went through the interior. but i got it to fit. i angled the top edges of the face and cut the trunks "spring adjusters" i mentioned earlier. slides in with about 1/8 inch of clearence on the sides and 1/2 on the top. just paint it and done. oh and i can still access my spare tire with a 15!!!!!!!
on a side note: the point of a sealed box is to prevent the opposing sound wave on the opposite side of the sub from canceling out the wave from the front.,correct? so dynamating the box would make the sub louder by further preventing cancellelation? just curious
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
dynmat really only makes a difference if your box is too thin and resonates at certain frequencies. ie a fiberglass box that doesn't have enough layers can benefit from it by making it heavier and thicker thereby lowering the resonant frequency of the box so that it won't make funny noises. i suppose that you could put some on that back wall and see if there is any affect, but i doubt there will be.
coooolll. thanks for the help out.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
