Can I run a set of computer fans in my car?? they should be 12volt because thats what a computer is... or do i need some resistors?
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i think alot of computer fans are 5V DC, in which case you would need a resistor infornt of it to drop down the voltage. check the voltage on the fan.
1997 RedR - ZedR
^^ +1
check to see which connectors the fan runs off of, if its a molex connector (4 pin, used for cd drives, hard drives, etc) and the fan is on the yellow and black wires those are 12v. (well, the yellow is 12+ and the 2 black wires are grounds) the red wire on the opposite side of the connector is the 5v+.
What are you planning on using these for?
If they are 5V use 2 in series. I have a pair in my car and they work just fine that way. Mine came off of old laptop processors and they only have a positive and a ground wire, unlike the ones with molex connectors.
BTW i have them in my car to move air in and out of the box i built around the head unit and epic-160 i have in my car, they are mounted in an MDF box that is mounted back to the firewall, and all the open space around it is filled with expandable foam. It was to keep the cd player stable so that it doesn't skip once i finally get all my stuff installed in the car. sounds crazy I know but I didn't want to run the risk of any CD skipping.
I plan to use it in my amp rack.. but the fan has a yellow, black, and red so i dont know whats going on lol.
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EDIT: if someone could find me a set of blue 80mm neon fans that would be great.. ones that would work so i can just hook them up to one switch and stuff... i could do series but parallel would be better i think as the fans are on separate sides.
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the yellow is for 12v+ the black is ground and don't worry about the red, it's used on computers for monitoring the speed of the fan, almost every computer fan i've ever seen runs 12V, i have never heard of a 5 volt fan, but they will work with up to 18 volts with no problems, the fan just spins alot faster and makes a hell of alot more noise
thanks man
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dont use a processor fan, use power supply fans, those are normally 12V.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
All fans in a computer are 12V. Anything you plug in yourself is 12V.
Not "anything", but hard drives, fans, disc drives, graphics cards, CPU, etc. all run off the 12V rail. 3.3V and 5V rail handle tasks like RAM and trafficking in general.
On ebay they sell laptop cooling pads that have 3 fans in them that glow blue when you power them on. They only cost like 12 bucks and you could remove the fans really easy, think they just unscrew. I have one and they move quite a bit of air. Not sure if they are 12v but they run of a USB connection.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_port#PoweredUSB
Pin Name Cable colour Description
1 VCC Red +5V
2 D− White Data −
3 D+ Green Data +
4 GND Black Ground
[edit] Power
The USB specification provides a 5 V (volts) supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5
between the positive and negative bus power lines.[10] Initially, a device is only allowed to draw 100 mA. It may request more current from the upstream device in units of 2 mA up to a maximum of 500 mA.
If a bus-powered hub is used, the devices downstream may only use a total of four units — 400 mA (i.e. 2 watts) — of current. This limits compliant bus-powered hubs to 4 ports. The host operating system typically keeps track of the power requirements of the USB network and may warn the computer's operator when a given segment requires more power than is available.
On-The-Go and Battery Charging Specification both add new powering modes to the USB specification. The latter specification allows USB devices to draw up to 1.5 A from hubs and hosts that follow the Battery Charging Specification.
As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for license in China are required to adopt the USB port as a power port.[11]
In September, 2007 the Open Mobile Terminal Platform --a forum dominated by operators but including manufacturers such as Nokia, Samsung, Motorola, Sony Ericsson and LG--announced that its members had agreed on micro-USB as the future common connector for mobile devices. [12][13]
[edit] Non-standard Devices
A number of USB devices require more power than is permitted by the specifications for a single port. This is a common requirement of external hard and optical disc drives and other devices with motors or lamps. Such devices can be used with the use of an external power supply of adequate rating, which is allowed by the standard, or by means of a dual inputs USB cable, one input of which is used for power and data transfer, the other solely for power, which makes the device a non-standard USB device. Some external hubs may, in practice, supply more power to USB devices than required by the specification but a standard compliant device may not depend on this.
Some non-standard USB devices use the 5 V power supply without participating in a proper USB network. These are usually referred to as USB decorations. The typical example is a USB-powered reading light; fans, mug heaters, battery chargers (particularly for mobile telephones) and even miniature vacuum cleaners are available. In most cases, these items contain no digitally based circuitry, and thus are not proper USB devices at all. This can cause problems with some computers — the USB specification requires that devices connect in a low-power mode (100 mA maximum) and state how much current they need, before switching, with the host's permission, into high-power mode.
In addition to limiting the total average power used by the device, the USB specification limits the inrush current (to charge decoupling and bulk capacitors) when the device is first connected; otherwise, connecting a device could cause glitches in the host's internal power. Also, USB devices are required to automatically enter ultra low-power suspend mode when the USB host is suspended; many USB hosts do not cut off the power supply to USB devices when they are suspended since resuming from the suspended state would become a lot more complicated if they did.
There are also devices at the host end that do not support negotiation, such as battery packs that can power USB powered devices; some provide power, while others pass through the data lines to a host PC. USB Power adapters convert utility power and/or power from a car's electrical system to run attached devices. Some of these devices can supply up to 1 A of power. Without negotiation, the powered USB device is unable to inquire if it is allowed to draw 100 mA, 500 mA, or 1 A.
[edit] PoweredUSB
Main article: PoweredUSB
PoweredUSB uses standard USB signaling with the addition of extra power lines. It uses 4 additional pins to supply up to 6A at either 5V, 12V, or 24V (depending on keying) to peripheral devices. The wires and contacts on the USB portion have been upgraded to support higher current on the 5V line, as well. This is commonly used in Point of Sale applications and provides enough power to operate stationary barcode scanners, printers, pin pads, signature capture devices, etc. This standard was developed by IBM, NCR, and FCI/Berg. It is essentially two connectors stacked such that the bottom connector accepts a standard USB plug and the top connector takes a power connector.
1997 RedR - ZedR
bryan schooley wrote:the yellow is for 12v+ the black is ground and don't worry about the red, it's used on computers for monitoring the speed of the fan, almost every computer fan i've ever seen runs 12V, i have never heard of a 5 volt fan, but they will work with up to 18 volts with no problems, the fan just spins alot faster and makes a hell of alot more noise
Sorry but I'm pretty sure that is backwards... the
red is the 12v+ and the
Yellow is the RPM signal.
Black, of course, is still ground.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_fan#Connector_pin_assignment
Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.
He's talking about a Molex, AFAIK.
Molex has no speed sensing. All it does it a constant 12V. You can wire the 12V and 5V to the 12V wire on the fan for 17V, but that isn't necessary. Just get a high airflow 120mm and be good.
