Anyone have pictures of their engine bay with the Big 3 wires ran, and route of wires. Just need a fairly good idea of where to run my wire. Alternator to Battery, etc. It would be 1/0 gauge also. Thanks
i still have 3 more runs to the trunk yet to do.
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Livin'loud
I took the fully around the front routing approach. The grounds on the right side have since been tucked under the rad support, and the grounding point bolted through a hold I drilled.
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Threw this together for sake of clarity. I'm not saying this is an ideal layout, but at least you can see what I was doing.
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what size fuse should i run from the alternator to the + terminal, on 1/0 gauge wiring. And also what size fuse should i run to my amp on 1/0 wire. It is a sundown saz1500d.
SLOCAV wrote:what size fuse should i run from the alternator to the + terminal, on 1/0 gauge wiring. And also what size fuse should i run to my amp on 1/0 wire. It is a sundown saz1500d.
You would want the alt-to-battery run fused at 300A, which matches well to the capacity of the cable. The run to your trunk can be fused up to 300A also (but at least 80A, which is what that amp needs). The main purpose is to protect against overheating the cable in the event of a short.
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uhm, what do you think, probably about 10-12 ft should be enough for the big 3?
sundown saz1500d...i would use 1(150amp) inline fuse.
its not really worth putting a fuse between the ALT and the battery.a battery will take the over charge from a ALT before dieing.its the rest of the car thats not built to take 16 or 17volts for a prolonged time while the alt is frying.its just an added obstruction.but if you really want one use a (300amp) fuse.or get a 300amp inline breaker switch.
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Livin'loud
0verkill wrote:sundown saz1500d...i would use 1(150amp) inline fuse.
its not really worth putting a fuse between the ALT and the battery.a battery will take the over charge from a ALT before dieing.its the rest of the car thats not built to take 16 or 17volts for a prolonged time while the alt is frying.its just an added obstruction.but if you really want one use a (300amp) fuse.or get a 300amp inline breaker switch.
It's not really about overcharging the battery, and these fuses couldn't care less what voltage is run over them. The alternator could never produce enough current to blow a 300A fuse. It's a safeguard against the (granted slim) chance that something in the charging circuit could melt or break, causing a short to ground. In that situation the big new positive wire you added could back-feed from the battery and cause fire or battery explosion.
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the chance of the ALT ever doing anything that would harm the battery is slim to none.
the chance of the battery harming the ALT is just as slim.
people need to watch how and were they put the lines.most people have no clue were the best places are to run charge lines.in this event i would strongly suggest using fuses.running a charge cable around the motor is a bad idea.its going to end up melting a shorting out.cables should be ran clear of the motor and master cylinder and break lines.
but i stick to my first statement.
if the job is done right you have no need for a fuse between the alt and the battery.
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Livin'loud
if the chance is slim, not zero... why take a chance?
for $30 i can have a 0 chance... ill take it
O im not disagreeing.
in truth iv seen it happen a few times.
and it was always the same thing.wires run to close to the motor or break lines.and melted out.
but never once out of all the alts we have killed did it do damage to the battery.although the fuses to the amps blew.and we only use 300amp fuses.
but in spl you want as little obstructions as possible.the more fuses you have the weaker your volts become.also the reason for running mutable runs of power wire to the trunk/back of a automobile.
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Livin'loud
the fuses are there more for in case of an accident as in a car wreck, not for the alternator going out or battery issues. and with the wiring geeky has shown on that fron brace i'd highly suggest a fuse since in a head on collision thats a high likely hood of being damaged. i keep my wires closer to the engine. secured so their not laying on any hot engine part
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alright, I am going to go with the 300amp fuse for the inline. Where is a good place on the net to get them along with holders?
fuse....$30
saving thousands of $$ for repair of car/new car....priceless
any time you take power off something (batt, alt) you ALWAYS use a fuse. any time you change wire gauges you always use a fuse
Say the resistance in that 1/0 wire is .01Ω, typical battery sits at 12.66v, using ohms law you've got a current of over 1200A running through that wire if its shorting, assuming 13.8 running, almost 1400A. yes car batteries are typically 750 cranking amps, but thats under a workload, they have more potential than that given the right conditions. Small wire will burn itself to nothing in a few seconds if that, a big wire like 1/0 will likely burn anything in its vicinity before slowly burning itself to nothing. Not to mention what the battery has potential for, especially with hydrogen gas present, kablammo
better safe then sorry...thats the first thing they smash in your head when you get mecp certification of any level.
Hellraiser and Lil Lightning
SLOCAV wrote:alright, I am going to go with the 300amp fuse for the inline. Where is a good place on the net to get them along with holders?
I purchased all my stuff for the big 3 off of knukonceptz.com
Very nice info here
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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.
just tryin to get a lil more familiar with this before i do it to my car ('04 cavy)...does anyone have some pics of an ecotec big 3 upgrade...i'm curious on where the ground on the motors at and which post on the alt is used and just really need as many pics as possible ot help clarify how everyone else has it setup
PICS!!!!!!
I would think it is in the same area (Transmission) just follow your negative lead to the ground and see where it ends up.
For the peoplewith pics. IS there anything you have against wire loom. I mean you guys talk about it overheating from being to close to the engine. This is a good way to prevent that.
1. They are probably being more cautious about running it too close to things (Jason knows what he is doing with this stuff).
2. Wire loom does look better, but how are you going to think that if a wire is close enough to something hot enough to melt through the casing, that it wouldn't melt through a thin piece of cheap plastic wire loom as well? It isn't a good way to prevent anything like that at all.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
It doesn't protect it if it is up against something but just from the heat that is emmited from the engine. Its just another layer for it to go through if it does heat up. Better safe than sorry.
put a second battery in the trunk a lot easyer
joshua knaack wrote:put a second battery in the trunk a lot easyer
no, not always a good idea. Can be unsafe, and the Big 3 is much easier. It isn't meant to give you more power. It is meant to strenghten your electronics and current flow. and don't start with, caps help too. fail.
