Has anybody installed 6.5" speakers in their door panels without fiberglassing them in? Actually I should be asking if they'll fit without fiberglassing first. Another problem I've noticed is because of the stock speaker vents in the panels there's no places to screw 2 of the component speakers screws for a solid mount.
I also currently only have a 2 channel amp, my step dad said I could wire the components straight to the back of my radio and my 2 10" subs to the amp, which is only a small alpine, couple hundred watt amp. I currently have the subs turned off because I listen to alot of hardcore/metal music with alot of double bass and it was just too much bass with the subs on.
I don't know much of anything about audio so any help or advice wouldn't hurt. Thanks.
can be done
cut the hole in the door pannel where you want it then make a wood ring to fit the speaker as if you were fiberglassing.
put the wood ring on the back side of the door panel
screw speaker in through door panel and into the wod ring
your done
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
If you want to hide the speaker, you can fit a 3/4" spacer behind the door panel without a problem, and you don't have to cut the door panel that way.
That's a 1/2" spacer, but when I did it I measured and 3/4" will fit.
I have the same kind of spacer for 6.5" i can get pics up if wanted
^Please do, like I said I barely know anything about audio and I certainly don't know how to install these yet, they're Alpine Type-R's, with 2 tweeters and 2 crossover things.
Good find John...and for only about $20...most plastic adapters are about the same price and aren't nearly as good.
Those are for hiding the speakers. If you want to show the speakers, you're going to need to make a pair of rings so you can screw into the door panel, speaker, and ring to hold the speaker, cause the door panel is too thin to support the speaker on its own.
I got cheap plastic adapters on eBay, and they did not hide my Infinity 6.5 drivers. Not realizing that this was unusual, I ended up cutting the door to expose the speaker, and molding the speaker's included grille into the door.
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The plastic adapter is a very very very bad idea. It doesn't space the speaker out enough in most cases. I have a pair of Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.5 components in my doors. I didn't make a 3/4" wooden spacer, I would have never fit the midbasses in. They bottomed out on the window track before flushing in without the wooden spacer. But be careful as well because if you choose coaxials instead and they have raised angled tweeters. They may push the door panel out and the angling will be useless.
For this instance, along with the wooden midbass spacer, I would recommend mounting the tweeters upward and forward of the door handle...near the dash. And if they came with a recess angle mount, that would be ideal. (If anyone knows what I mean and has theirs in that location, please post a picture to help me show him.)
As far as powering them off the deck, that isn't usually a good idea with components. Is the Alpine amp 4 channel? If so, you should be able to bridge it to 3 channels. use two on the doors and the other on the sub. Just use one sub instead of two.
The excess bass can be controlled by a sub level control to match the sub bass to the rest of the stereo.
If it can't drag, it ain't low enough!
Correction, I meant I would have never fit the mids if I HAD NOT made a spacer.
If it can't drag, it ain't low enough!
Okay, here's the Alpine amp I'm working with:
And here's the components with the tweeters and crossovers...
Like I said before, I listen to alot of rock, metal, hardcore, very little rap. So the music I do listen to has alot of constant double bass pedals from the drummer. Given that info what would be the best set up so I don't have too much bass, my main goal is to be able to just turn it up loud enough, not have it crackle when the bass hits, and not get pounded by too much bass.
Wire speakers to back of my Pioneer DEH-P4000UB?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8679691&type=product&id=1197678618266 and keep the subs wired to the amp and some how turn the bass down?
Or wait and get a 4 channel amp and wire everything up to the amp?
are those components type x's? if so your gonna have to cut the door panel because they are too deep to fit into the actual door with hitting the window and pushing he door panel out. youll have to mount the flush with the door panel and put a wood ring on the backside to stiffen the mounting
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
Lance time to buy another amplifier, type R speakers LOVE power.....
watch for flying sparks!!!
Yeah, those are way too big to fit in Cavy doors. You're gonna have to go through the door panel with those. You coulda got the speakers I got for a lot less and they could have ran off that Pioneer deck...but, that's what you have and that's what we all have to work with here. Anyway, that deck has a sublevel control in it. So, that is how you are gonna control your bass. Trust me, if you listen to a lot of rock, the first time you listen to ...And Justice For All with a sub, you will thank me for saying keep one of your subs. But you are gonna need a really big four channel bridgeable amp. Since you won't be needing it, you can just send me that old school Alpine...lol JK. In all honesty, if you wanna stay old school, get the Alpine 3555 that looks like that. You can bridge it down to three channels, it produces ridiculous sound for its size, and has built in crossovers. If you go modern, get something that pushes at least 75x4 RMS. If they give you a watt rating on your amp, ask if it is RMS (continuous). Peak/Max doesn't mean much at all because you may never be able to power the amp to that level.
If it can't drag, it ain't low enough!
UMMMM. yeah. i have the same ones. and they fit in my doors just fine. with the same mdf adapters as above. so. alas. they are NOT to big for the cav. they fit just fine.
My Type-R 6.5" Coaxials fit behind my door panels and I have manual windows. Alpine lists the coaxials as having a 2.5" mounting depth while the components have 2.3125". Thus he should be fine as far as mounting them behind the door panel.
LOL, I stand corrected...and half asleep. But the rest is pretty well spot on.
If it can't drag, it ain't low enough!
So my best option is to get a better amp that's 4channel? I appreciate all the helpful responces too guys.
Your BEST bet would be to get a dedicated amp for your subs, as well as a more powerful amp for the components. Running the comps through your headunit will severely underpower them. That in itself isn't necessarily a BAD thing, but I would personally want them to see their potential.
Any suggestions for an amp? Like I said a bunch of times, I don't need alot of boom-boom lol so a reasonably priced amp with a decent amount of power would be great. Should I go with an Alpine amp to match the components? The subs I have are 2 Pioneer 10" subs.
That's why I said one four channel amp. For his purposes, he doesn't need a dedicated sub amp. He's not looking to win any spl competitions or anything here. He just wants something complementary to his components. Multi amplifier systems aren't for all of us. But if he is going to buy an amp, he may as well get one with a lot of power. Now I did do a little research and there is an old school Alpine 3555 on ebay right now that would push all four component speakers and a subwoofer.
If it can't drag, it ain't low enough!
