Ok I feel like Im posting a lot of problems lately but here I go. 3 days ago I was driving I hear a pop come from my amp (which is a Pyramid PB1010GX) and I look back and theres smoke coming off either the positive or negative terminal on my amp power. So I check it and every thing seems fine. I mean no visible damage or anything but the amps in protection. So I get to school and turn the car off and turn the key over to reset the amp and its working but at about half as loud usual so I figure blown fuse in one channel. I check. I blew no fuses. The 60 amp (yes I know its small) on my power wire is fine and the two 25 amp fuses in the amp are fine. So I move onto the sub (15" Alpine Type-R) I checked the wiring for proper polarity and no crossing etc and it was fine. I check the grounds. Visibly fine. Then I give up figuring my amps dead so I get an amp from a friend and hook it up. It runs fine til the next morning when I starts going into protection so I unhook the sub and it still does it. So my only guess is that it could be a grounding issue or a power issue? I've used the same ground for 8 months and had no problem so I have really no idea so anyone with help thanks.
one word . . . . Pyramid
Whats up people?
My guess would be that you have the sub wired low and that the pyramid just had a @!#$ty protection circuit.
subs wired at 4 ohm and the amp is stable at 2 ohm (i had it running that on two 12s) and yes I know Pyramid blows blah blah but I got it for free and it serves my needs. The protection circuits works it kicks reguraly if I have a bad ground but it isn't doing it. How is the ground wired into the amp internally? And I took a voltmeter to it today and I've got good voltage everywhere.
I no longer have the distinction of having the loudest car in school
. So I want to get this figured out. Second loudest is my buddys Camaro with a 1000 watt rms Memphis Class D amp and a 12" Rockford T1 so the Pyramid cant be doing too bad if its competing with that. IMO.
Double check the impedance of the woofers, use a meter. I've wired so many subs wrong when I was absolutely sure I'd done it wrong, its worth investigating.
It's also possible one or both of the woofers are fuct. Try putting the woofers in a buddies car that has a working system.
I figured it out possibly. One of my RCA jacks is out so I'm going to pull the amp apart and check it out.
i was going to say to check your rca's and me i welded my ground got 0 gage wiring for my ground and 2 runs of 0 gage for power.
bryon morton wrote:i was going to say to check your rca's and me i welded my ground got 0 gage wiring for my ground and 2 runs of 0 gage for power.
dear lord!!! and people say holy hell when they see my ONE 0awg power cable!
lol ive built this car for stereo comps i learned all the little trick to make a sunfire loud
bryon morton wrote:i was going to say to check your rca's and me i welded my ground got 0 gage wiring for my ground and 2 runs of 0 gage for power.
You realise that you're supposed to double up your GROUND, right?
Because I'm sure you know more than someone who builds for sound comps..........
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
98_JB-OvERT wrote:Because I'm sure you know more than someone who builds for sound comps..........
You assume that participation = knowledge?
.
Current flows from negetive to positive. Having a bigger positive wire than negetive is pointless.
(+)========== A
M ============== (-)
(+)========== P
<<<<<<<<current flow<<<<<<<<<<
bradsk88 wrote:98_JB-OvERT wrote:Because I'm sure you know more than someone who builds for sound comps..........
You assume that participation = knowledge? .
Current flows from negetive to positive. Having a bigger positive wire than negetive is pointless.
(+)========== A
M ============== (-)
(+)========== P
Depends upon the length of the run. Usually the positive run is longer and therefore has a larger voltage drop for the same size wire. If the wire lengths are the same then the size and quantity should be the same. If the negative run is shorter, then it may not need to have the same current capacity.
-
with that said, the power cables are likely five times as long as the ground. It would be helpful to have a double ground, but it's not like its completely rediculous to have dual power, and a ten inch ground cable and have all the power you need.
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
Maybe I should be studying reading more and car audio less.
I thought he had written "one run of 0 gauge for ground and 2 runs of 0 gauge for power."
I think we had that same "length" conversation in my Damping Factor thread
it may sound pointless but it did gain me half a db every little bit counts.
