ok I jsut got my new amp hooked up its a kenwood excelon, im not sure the model off the top of my head right nwo. All i know is that its supposed to put out 919 watts rms at 2 ohms yada yada. I have had my Alpine SWR-1242D for over 2 years with no problems. the amp i had previously was a 800 watt max pioneer amp. anywho, i have my sub wired to 2 ohms, and I properly set the gains with a multimeter. for the first couple of days after i got my new amp, everything was good, now i keep getting this horrible smell, (it kind of smells like overheating brakes) coming from the trunk. My amp has a cooling fan built into it, so its never hotter then cool to the touch, but my sub gets a lil warm on the cone. could I possibly be close to destroying my sub? does anyone have any advice.
BTW im pretty sure this is one of those amps that over rates the power output, but i could be wrong
that would be the sub burning up it sounds like.
take it easy. set up the amp with an ociliscope.
i cant say that i have an ociliscope.
im kind of wondering if my sub is not properly wired to my amp, I have 2 negs and 2 pos terminals on the amp, even though its a one channel amp. im only using one sub wired to a 2 ohm load, so that means i should be only using 1 neg and 1 pos terminal, right?
if you have 2- and 2+, it must be a 2 channel amp. What is your subwoofer SVC or DVC and 2 or 4 ohm. what is the amp stable to also? I'd bridge the amp if possible too.
nah kenwoods have 2- and 2+ but are MONO. Its weird but thats how they are....But your killing the sub....turn down the gain. Its burning up, easy way to check is whip out your DMM and check the ohms on the sub...if its been abused or burned it wont read 2 ohms any more...It will still play but not sound like it used too. The kenwood amps are pretty good IMO
gain is supposed to be set to the deck's preout voltage btw.
i know, and i took the DMM and got it to the right voltage that it was supposed to have. which came to liek 46.8 or something. im guessing its over powering the sub. ill turn it down a bit. sub still plays fine tho
your over powering the sub. find out the ohms of the sub and match it to the amp. or try turning down the gain or woofer control on the deck.
that sub is a DVC... your amp has two outputs, but its a monoblock... what you need to do is hook up one 'channel' of the amp to one voice coil and the other 'channel' up to the other voice coil.
some MONO or "D" class amps have 4 outputs... 2 +'s and 2 -'s. it allows you to hook up a DVC sub the
right way.
so what your saying is instead of wiring it to 2 ohms, i can wire each coil up to the amp? does that mean i can keep the gain where i had it?
this is new info to me
bassically u fed up ur sub haha u mite have burned up one of the voice coils haha wire it to 2ohms but make shure its hooked up correctly and is ur amp briged??
do you have any idea what your talking about? it is wired up for 2 ohms
so in order to hook up each coil to the amp, i will have 2 pos and 2 negs coming from the sub into the 2 pos and 2 negs on the amp? will it still be a 2 ohm load or would it be back to a 4 ohm load? its a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub. this is the amp i got maybe that will help
kenwood and this is how i have the sub wired up at the moment
2 ohm load
it will be a 4 ohm load if you wire it like this...
+ ( first voice coil) - (+ on one side of the amp's terminals and - on the other.)
+ (second voice coil) - (+ on the other side of the amp's terminals and the - with it)
basically.. you will need two terminal 'cups' in the box for this to work, OR you could simply run one set of wires through a port if you have one...
awesome, im sure even if its a 4 ohm load, it will still be more RMS wattage then my 800 watt max pioneer amp
thanks man
I have a 1500RMS Hifonics Titan Tx1505d, it has 2 + and 2- outputs, but it is MONO. Believe it or not, many mono amps are built to power more than one subwoofer. I have it hooked up to two Diamond Audio DX310 15"s. When I have to take them out (they sit in my backseat =P) I put a kicker l5 in the trunk. The kicker gets wired to a 4ohm load, both voice coils individually. Otherwise it gets hot and smells bad.
Smelling bad is a very obvious sign something is wrong, but Alpines are built solid, and it should be able to take getting hot once in a while. Go buy a wattmeter, it's soooo worth it to know exactly how many watts you're pushing.
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
where would i find a watt meter?
They're not cheap, but neither are new subs
I'd rather be safe than sorry, hobby stores sell them, make sure that you get one with a decent amperage rating though.
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
z yaaaa wrote:it will be a 4 ohm load if you wire it like this...
+ ( first voice coil) - (+ on one side of the amp's terminals and - on the other.)
+ (second voice coil) - (+ on the other side of the amp's terminals and the - with it)
basically.. you will need two terminal 'cups' in the box for this to work, OR you could simply run one set of wires through a port if you have one...
You CANNOT run a dual 4 ohm sub at 4 ohm unless you only run one coil PERIOD.
Second, WTF is a watt meter? You'd need an AMP METER to measure how much draw at the amp and a VOLT METER to measure exactly how much voltage. Volts x Amps = Watts.
Third - Most monoblocks can power multiple subs? How about every single amp out there can power infinite amount of speakers, as long as the load to the amp isn't exceeded.
As far as setting gains, did you have bass at 0, any equalizers off, and bass boost on the amp all the way down?
If your head unit has a higher RCA line voltage, it will mean there will be less gain to adjust on the amp.
A wattmeter is a device used to measure watts of power on model cars and airplanes. They happen to be useful when tuning your subs. I understand you can do the calculations with a regular multimeter, but a wattmeter will do it for you. Google it if you don't believe me
.
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
So I seached watt meters, and I knew about the Kill-A-Watt one that you plug appliances in, but I've never seen one able to do 12 volt and 200+ amps.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLMV0&P=FR, this is the one I use. The amperage maxes out at 100, but it will read watts up to 1693, that's the highest I've had it: P
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:z yaaaa wrote:it will be a 4 ohm load if you wire it like this...
+ ( first voice coil) - (+ on one side of the amp's terminals and - on the other.)
+ (second voice coil) - (+ on the other side of the amp's terminals and the - with it)
basically.. you will need two terminal 'cups' in the box for this to work, OR you could simply run one set of wires through a port if you have one...
You CANNOT run a dual 4 ohm sub at 4 ohm unless you only run one coil PERIOD.
Second, WTF is a watt meter? You'd need an AMP METER to measure how much draw at the amp and a VOLT METER to measure exactly how much voltage. Volts x Amps = Watts.
Third - Most monoblocks can power multiple subs? How about every single amp out there can power infinite amount of speakers, as long as the load to the amp isn't exceeded.
As far as setting gains, did you have bass at 0, any equalizers off, and bass boost on the amp all the way down?
If your head unit has a higher RCA line voltage, it will mean there will be less gain to adjust on the amp.
x2
And to the OP. Alot of monoblocks have two sets of speaker inputs. In every case I've seen to date, the 2 sets are paralleled internally. So if you wire a 2 ohm load to one set of terminals, and a 2 ohm load to the other set, the amp will see 1 ohm. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using just a single set of speaker terminals, it hurts absolutely nothing.
GAM (The Kilted One) wrote: if you think you're that much better than them because you're "correct" I hope your progeny don't turn out as screwed up as yourself.
Do the subs move a lot?
if not make sure the coils aren't wired out of phase.
