well as some of you know a little while back i asked for help designing a subwoofer box.
LINK
well i do have that box built and i want to add more to this build. i have the bl in my car and i want to add 2 more 10 inch woofers. they will be sealed and symetric around the 12" bl the 10 inch woofers im looking at are the fi ssd series. they will have separate chamber (all subs) and i want to have the bl to stay ported but im going to have to change the box so it looks good with the two subs beside it. i am working on a concept right now of how to do this. what i want to do is make the port lay flat below the bl . i was wondering if that would effect tunig in anyway? and what is the difference between a 34 hz tune and a 37 hz tune ported?? And ultimately would this sound good?? could it be pulled off? Would i just be a tuning nightmare with tons of cancelation? i want the 10"s to hit the higher up bass that the bl cant really reach, dont get me wrong the low end on this sub is just amazing and i dont want to lose that, i just want more high end. by high end i believe i mean mid range higher bass
Like stated ill have a concept up in a little bit but any help would be apperciated. also i will be needing suggestions on amps as well i like my BAMF so i was thinking about runnign 2 of them one for the bl and the other for the 10"s. yes its late and im rambling but i thought this might be a interesting project and i may learn a lot from this.
Thanks,
Anton Miller
click sig for my car audio videos
well i was going to have a concept up by the end of the night by my program decided to crash on me while saving so i guess itll have to wait until tomarro. but both sealed boxes for the 10's will be around the 1 ft^3 range.
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Im shocked this is the first time the file recovery actually worked for me!!!!! well theres my concept there really are no "SOLID" numbers because im lazy to go outside and get some but any c & C welcome. i kinda like the look of it but i think it could be better.
click sig for my car audio videos
Seriously, just don't waste your money. You don't want to run 2 different types of subs, or 2 different sizes of subs. Let alone doing BOTH. Just leave it the hell alone. Get some good components with mids that can get down low. It will be easier, better, and cheaper. OR consider a nice expensive 3 way component set and start working inside the car and get out of the trunk. ORRRR you could get some dedicated midbass' and run them off their own amp and tune everything that way. I really with you had a friend who was good with tuning this @!#$ to help you out there and show you what you can do without going all crazy like you think you need to.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
JLAudioCavalier wrote:Seriously, just don't waste your money. You don't want to run 2 different types of subs, or 2 different sizes of subs. Let alone doing BOTH. Just leave it the hell alone. Get some good components with mids that can get down low. It will be easier, better, and cheaper. OR consider a nice expensive 3 way component set and start working inside the car and get out of the trunk. ORRRR you could get some dedicated midbass' and run them off their own amp and tune everything that way. I really with you had a friend who was good with tuning this @!#$ to help you out there and show you what you can do without going all crazy like you think you need to.
i knew it was a bad idea from the start i just had that little voice inside saying try it. lol its good to know that it wouldnt be worth it. so you say some good components will do the trick for that?
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yeah how much money are you willing to spend? You got yourself a nice sub already, so spend some money on your fronts. I think one of my favorite well rounded systems that I have done is in a friends Impreza. 18" Fi BL in a ported box tuned to 35hz, Rainbow 6.5 inch Power Line components. With the right tuning and sound deadening you can make a KILLER sound system with something as simple as 1 set of components and 1 sub. You don't need to go crazy.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
well the money thing depends on how much i spend for christmas but i really dont see a problem with spending some money on a good set of components. about how much could a good set cost? im assuming around 150+ range
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Honestly you're looking closer to $200-300, at least.
'03 Cavalier
DesertTuners.com
not always. You had the guys box tuned to 20something hz right Lnhiv? Your advice really makes me weary from there on out.....
ANYWAY, 200-300 would be a really nice price range for a good set of comps, you could spend upwards of $500 easily. I don't think 150-200 is unreasonable at all though.
I would start looking into brands like Rainbow, CDT, and DLS. If you are willing to pay the price, you can get some AMAZING sounding components from those companies. I know someone who is a dealer for Rainbow and has really good prices. He is a B&M shop owner, not an online company(Rainbow doesn't do a lot with many online companies to be honest), but he WILL ship speakers. Calling and talking to him would be your best bet, but be aware he is busy. I could get his contact info if you are interested.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
yes sir. absolutely amazing sounding speakers. One of my all time favorites for speaker brands that I have heard or installed.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
JL, go do some calcs and tell me the difference between my tune and what you suggested. Then tell me why your way is better. You guys keep saying that my stuff is messed up, but there are reasons why i did it that way. And nobody has bothered to actually tell me what is wrong with it.
'03 Cavalier
DesertTuners.com
flat, harder time to hit base notes higher, where his mids will not go down to, no need to tune to an inaudible frequency, no good useabe sweet spot, nothing of over all importance in a box tuned that low. its just a dumb way to do it, when it would have been just as simple to tune to 30-40hz.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
Alright, thank you for that response, I appreciate it. I just tried to help the guy out when noone else would.
'03 Cavalier
DesertTuners.com
Alright, check this out then:
After messing with it, he could keep the box like it is, just remove the rear internal port wall...this would bring his box volume to around 4.2 cu ft, and the tuning to 33.1Hz or 32.5Hz depending on how he did the internal wall. The only problem I see is that it gives a port velocity of around 127 ft/s near 32Hz.
Doing the same thing as described above, but making the port 1/2 wider (by cutting a 1/2 off the front face and moving the port wall over) will bring the port velocity down to around 1108 peak, and bring the tuning up to 37Hz, and the box volume to 4.11 cu ft.
Thoughts, opinions?
'03 Cavalier
DesertTuners.com
I am not knocking the fact that you helped the guy out, by any means. I wouldn't want it to seem that way. I just am a little upset for the guy that you decided to design his box to be tuned so damn low. I mean, you clearly had an idea of what you were doing, but don't have the full knowledge on where to tune to and why to tune to certain frequencies in certain instances. I am not saying I am a genious, because I definitely DON'T build my own boxes, but that is because I am a car nut and electrical nut, not a wood worker. But, this is neither here nor there.
To try and make up for the off topic talk that Lnhiv and I have gotten into, let me suggest a couple specific components to consider. Although this is kind of going to depend on your budget. ALSO, would you be interested in contacting the Rainbow dealer that I know? I think PM'ing him on the audio forum, or e-mailing him might be better than calling now that I think of it. His name on CarAudioForum.com is 6spdcoupe. I haven't talked to him online for a while, so he might not still be active there, who knows. Anyway, send him a PM and let him know what you are looking for, what you are looking to spend, and who referred you. (Dustin from Maine or JLAudioCav from CAF works lol)
I changed my mind, not linking you to any. Just check some out, ask about them, try to go out and listen to some. I'm not THAT bored tonight lol.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
I have an alphasonic 3 way set of components that rock it out. 6 1/2, 5 1/4, and 2 inch tweet. Set one of those up in front, feed it some power, and smile.
ok well im sorry about letting this go dead but i will be looking into some components in a couple months but im working on a concept of box that im going to be building next year (prolly summer) and i want some feedback on this.
well what i want is to have a good clean looking set up, not so much like the one i have now. i want ot have its so you only see the sub and the amp(s) then there is a port going into the cab. i want it to be sealed off between the trunk and the cab. im going to be taking the rear seat out and replacing it with 2 bucket seat (2 front seats form a cav) and i want the port to go in between the 2 seats. i drew up a concept of what i want and to get the tuning right (32hz) i need a port that is 12 x 3.25 (giving me 39 sq" of port) x 34.5ish long and this sort of created a problem in doing this, i couldnt figure out how to get a conventional slot port in like that and come out the middle of the box like i want it too. so i was thinking about how my old q-logic boxes where ported and it had a port in the middle with 2 ports splitting off on each side. this is where i find the problem, i cant figure out how to get the correct lengths on things. what i did was took the 3.25 and divided it by 2 and got 1.625 thats the width of one side of the port then just made the total length of both inner ports 34.5 and the outlet of the port is 3.25 x 12
some pics
^^this pic is a cross section to help show what type of port im talking about^^
^^sort of a over view of what im thinking it will look like^^
^^a pic of the back side where the port goes thru to the cab and seals the trunk off^^
Basically all i want to know is, is this a good idea can it be done? i really dont care if it takes allot of work to get it tuned correctly. i just want to know will it sound goot and how do i get it tuned correctly. i know you can do it because i saw some videos on youtube with show cars that have setups like this.
Thank you,
Anton Miller
click sig for my car audio videos
2 problems.
1, it's best to have the sub and the port on the same plane, facing the same direction. You'll probably have a ton of cancellation.
2, you'll be essentially making a 4th order bandpass and if you seal that front plate it'll sound like ass. With the sub facing the opposite way, you'll have a ginormous sealed side, a super tiny port, and your sub might throw up all over itself even at 200 watts. Face the sub and port both forward.
k what if i do a bandpass box in the trunk and port firing to the cab? sub facing the cab and port going into the cab with some sort of plexi glass design.
im sorry if these are just some dumb questions but late at night i think of these things and they sound like good ideas
Thanks
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With a properly built bandpass, that might work. Key word is properly, and I don't like plexi on bandpass boxes. That's just me.
Anton Miller wrote:
Im shocked this is the first time the file recovery actually worked for me!!!!! well theres my concept there really are no "SOLID" numbers because im lazy to go outside and get some but any c & C welcome. i kinda like the look of it but i think it could be better.
hmm i like this look my box is kinda like this but were ur other speker holes r is were i have my amps and capacitors
