i have to 12" visoniks in the bandpass box with an amp running to them and then a 15" sub with a cruch amp running to it i just got them hooked up and its not sounding anything like i want it to.aka not as much bass as what should be pumping.i have another amp if need be but no capacitors any suggestions.
you have mismatched brands and sizes of subs, complete garbage amps, and a @!#$ty bandpass box. wtf do you expect?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
And learn to use proper punctuation. If you want more bass, the best thing I could recommend is to put your subs in a properly sized sealed enclosure (only the 12's, or JUST the 15, not both) and run them off whatever amp you have that puts out the most clean power. You won't have anything groundbreaking, but for what you have to work with, I'd say a proper box will give the best results.
wysiwyg wrote:i would say they bang, they don't really pound so much. but if
you want to bump, then they will bump and hit real hard and a lot good. 
LOL
JLAudioCavalier wrote:you have mismatched brands and sizes of subs, complete garbage amps, and a @!#$ty bandpass box. wtf do you expect?
hey man i dont know what you are trying to do here.but just me personally im tired of people like you trying to crack on someones @!#$.when peronsonally JL audio what im guessing you have by your name is junk for the price and btw i got the woofers and amps hooked up and hands down they would hit harder then your @!#$ for alot cheaper.
wow, thats all i have to say... what do you expect to hear when your doing it WRONG. just get one good amp and run your subs off of it like the rest said dont mismatch. and the brands are garbage.
click sig for my car audio videos
kyle brooks wrote:hey man i dont know what you are trying to do here.but just me personally im tired of people like you trying to crack on someones @!#$.when peronsonally JL audio what im guessing you have by your name is junk for the price and btw i got the woofers and amps hooked up and hands down they would hit harder then your @!#$ for alot cheaper.
LOL....
... now i know JLAudioCavalier can be an A hole but im gonna enjoy reading this thread after he reads that ^^^^
JL audio may be exspenive but on a scale of 1 to 1000000000000000 visoniks would be the 1 and JL would be 100000000000000 lol
homer simpson wrote:Beer, the cause of and solution to all of lifes problems
kyle brooks wrote:JLAudioCavalier wrote:you have mismatched brands and sizes of subs, complete garbage amps, and a @!#$ty bandpass box. wtf do you expect?
hey man i dont know what you are trying to do here
He's tryin to explain what u obviously missed. JLAudio and the unadulterated truth FTMFW
for what i paid for the @!#$ it hits every1 is hating on the mixed match @!#$ it hits for what i paid for it.btw i got the brand new visoniks for a broke down ps2 then i heard my buddys yukon with 2 12"s and a 15 and believe it or not i had it hooked up to one amp and it wasnt pushing it enough but w.e you guys have your mind set that mix match cant hit so w.e.i ask for suggestions and get @!#$ so wtfe.
Ok you have to understand the basic's of car audio in order to understand why your arguments are flawed. For one, to be fair and honest visonik is just a cheap generic brand so a factory somewhere makes a product such as a woofer, then slap different labels on it... like pyle, visonik etc... These companies love to advertise the peak wattage all over their equipment and cover it in led's. Once you realize this you will start to see, it really is not best bang for your buck since it is made cheaply... anyways now on to the audio part, the reason you cannot just throw subs together and expect it to pound like the combined rms is because each sub has its own characteristics. Each need specific air space and tuning. This is fine for 2 of the same subs, just double the specs, but since you want to run different subs you run into issues of cancellation, thus reducing your "pounding" ability, also you box is very important, you are running a bandpass box and what else? Is your box built to spec? Also how are your subs wired? All of these are important, you cannot simply just wire subs and expect them to yield max output. Run either the 15 or the 2 12"s but do some reading, test things out, box placement, tuning etc...
I like how you ask how to make them hit harder, then tell everyone they already hit harder than theirs? Wtf?
the problem you will have with different sized/brand subs will occurs due to the cone travel and surface displacement required by the different woofers to produce the same level of sound. That being said. If you have a 12in sub and a 15 inch sub facing the same direction in your car, it could work (mabe), provided you don't have them in the same box sharing air space. However, it doesn't quite make sense because you'd have balance issues where the 15in would or could produce higher levels than the 12.
which means it will sound like @!#$ like you said
also forget the 15 just keep the viso@!#$s in your car on one amp with a better box until you can get some more quality stuff.... research read learn and then buy somthing else...
homer simpson wrote:Beer, the cause of and solution to all of lifes problems
not sure if i want to respond.....
okay. i'll be nice. although jl was a bit rude on his responce (he usually is) he kinda hit the nail on the head. im one for using whatever you have but the reality is visonik is a prety cheap brand, back when i had a friend who dealed in audio i think he could pick up their subs for like 10 bucks a piece, which means it probably cost them about 5 bucks to make them. definatly not high end technology by any means. but now as far as mixing subs. its just wasting output, your not going to get them to his as hard as you could if you had 3 matching 12's. reason being is to increase your output you need to have a pair of subs hitting the same volume at a certain frequency. lets say 50hz for example. if both subs are hitting hardest at 50hz your output at 50hz is going to be increased, but with diffrent subs if the 12's are hitting hardest at 50hz but the 15 is hitting hardest at say 40hz. the outputs arn't increased. what you will end up is sloppy bass that doesn't hit as hard as you would think it would and a bass sound that is sloppy and not musically accurate.
now onto jl audio. although i do also agree that they are a bit overpriced, they are very high quality gear and manville definatly knows what he's doing in the audio departmnet.
saying your visoniks are louder because they HIT hard proves you dont know much in audio. so just take things said with a grain of salt. keep your comments clean and try and learn something.
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ALRIGHT.
So, to try and say the same damn thing, but with a little more detail, here I go.
1. We don't need ignorant, cocky, moronic, illiterate, ghetto sounding trolls running around talking crap on the forum. End that now or GTFO.
2. Visonik is complete garbage. It is a cheap ass flea market brand and nothing more. You can make even @!#$ty subs like those sound half decent, but you are doing it completely wrong. You don't take cheap subs(there is a reason a broken ps2 was payment enough for them), match them to an over rated cheap ass no-name amp, toss them in a cheap ass no-name prefabbed "bandpass" box. That is NOT how to get the most out of the cards you were dealt.
3. The mixing of sub sizes being wrong, is 100% true. I will tell you all day long that it is wrong. I will also laugh at you every time you come back with some sort of smart ass retort trying to defend yourself. Look at it this way... Do you really think that your 15" sub with it's amp is moving exactly the same as your two 12 inch subs with their amp, ESPECIALLY in completely different enclosures? A larger cone is going to move a lot differently than a smaller cone, especially taking into consideration that they have completely different power sources. I am also willing to bet that you don't know your head from your ass hole when it comes to tuning. You get nothing but slop, noise, and cancellation with the bull@!#$ setup you currently have. I promise.
4. Now let's move onto another point you attempted to make. JL Audio is a higher end brand for a reason. They put countless hours of R&D into their products. They strive to make the highest quality products possible. They have great products, great sound, and over all are a great company. Something you seem to miss about their pricing(yes I know we drive J bodies so we don't like expensive things, but there is that old saying 'you get what you pay for'). The thing with their pricing is that it costs that much FOR A GOD DAMN REASON. You get support from them, you get amazing quality, and amazing sounding products. Not the best bargain. Brands like Pyle and Visonik are cheap for a reason. They don't put that R&D time into making the best car audio product they can, they pound em out as quickly and cheaply as they can to sell as many as possible.
5. Don't argue with me in this forum when your first thread here is asking about mixing sub sizes, brands, and prefabbed "bandpass" boxes. It will get you nowhere and in a quick hurry.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
/\/\/\/\ HAHA i agree. listen to him man. you may think you know what your talking about. but you have no idea. JL knows what he is doing. lol. yeah. this is funny.
goddamn bully. lol. Ill take you up on your little hit harder than your stuff bet. Except I wont use the big boy toys. I'll use a set of 8s. Wanna play?
ill be honest i have 2 alpine type r 10's in my trunk and 1 alpine type r 15 in the same trunk. but at the same time i have s with in my car that turns the 15 off when the 10's are on and the 10's off when the 15 is on. thats pretty much the only way you can have two sub sizes without it sounding like juicy elephant farts....
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
JL AUDIO - hmmmm............
Been my License plate since 1997 - JL POUNDS!
The point the Original poster is missing is - EVEN if he was USING JL AUDIO, having to 12's in a BANDPASS and a single 15 in a sealed or ported box, well they are NOT HELPING EACH OTHER in any way shape of form. Yes it adds NOISE TO your vehicle. However you DO NOT ADD Music or increase your SPL.. Fact of the matter is that they are more than likely Canceling each other out.
You get Flutter and your car makes buzzing noise, probably shakes it a bit too, but it more than likely sounds like a kid in the trunk beating on a TEASH CAN with a hammer!
I use to work for a JL AUDIO dealer. I still run JL AUDIO and I can buy other brands at or below cost. So something must be good about it..
Also the thing with me is that I put my key in the ignition and turn my radio up and ride out!! BANGING the entire time I am on the road almost 100% of the time. A well designed and properly installed system will LAST YEARS AND YEARS!!! I installed the current system in my Daily Driver in April of 07, so almost 2 years and I haven't so much as had to replace a fuse.
I only have a fuse installed incase my car is in an accident, or if I need to unhook the power cable and do not want it to short out. Most people with JUNK audio systems carry around extra fuses as if they are PART of what makes there system and change them all the time due to FAILURE of the gear they have.
In my Show car I will be using HERTZ, The Mille Components. BUT I WILL still be using my JL AUDIO AMPS and JL AUDIO W7 subs.
Earlier this year, Car Audio & Electronics had an issue where JL AUDIO was featured with their Mustang, it was a KILLER system. Bill Hamze who usually builds their Demo vehicles is amazing when it comes to system design and making it look sweet too.
Anyway, in that same Issue they had a Vehicle (can't remember what is was, Black coupe) and it had Hertz MILLE components (5 thousand dollars) and 2 of the Audison Thesis amps (8 thousand dollars each or so). Audison is Hertz parent company and their have EXTREMLY HIGH END products. Well guess what they used in this car with 20,000dollars worth of components and amps???? You guessed it, 3 JL AUDIO 8W7s! So they must be somewhat good, you think???
im very intrigued by the new HD series amps.
what?????
CA&E is toast? sad, sad days.....
GAM (The Kilted One) wrote: if you think you're that much better than them because you're "correct" I hope your progeny don't turn out as screwed up as yourself.
ok thank you guys.I figured that was the only way to get anything out of you was to get you fired up.After doing my research i'm saving for the kicker l7 15" and thats the only sub going in.If I pissed anyone off I am not sorry because I got the answers i needed.
don't come back.
car audio noob since 1984.
