As some of you may know I purchased a new cavalier late october. It's all wired for 2 amps (speakers and sub) and I need a few things.
I wanna aim towards handling so I am thinking of staying with a good 10 inch (weight), but any ideas are welcomed.
I was told to get the Kicker 700.5 amp which is a 5 channel. Good idea... bad idea? I like the idea because it will cut down on weight plus keep trunk room up..
I was kinda lookin at a 10 inch JL W7 but thats a little more then I wanted to spend. I am not looking for anything to blow the doors off, just something with a good sound and can hit deep but not like crush the windows loud.. Thanks
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, January 27, 2009 9:43 AM
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I have a 12'' JL. It plays really clean and hits hard and crisp. I would suggest getting a 10'' JL.
I like them just not the $500 price tag for a 10 inch
I may look into alphasonik... I had a 12 inch of theirs
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Check out the Fi lineup, sounds like you should look at a SSD model, but with that amp, it wouldn't be reasonable, because of so many channels to share power with.
Get an amp dedicated to the subwoofer then an amp for your other speakers if you end up going with that route.
link to the model you're talking about?
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rockford fosgate punches are awesome check em out
Lanzar Max - they love small boxes, very inexpensive, and sound good.
Alpine Type-R. I like mine but I have a 15. The Alpine site says $200 but thats probably high. 500 watts RMS. Maybe I'm just partial because I have it but everyone else is listing what they have. They have great sound quality. I don't have any amp opinion though. Im partial to my Sundown but they dont have an amp that'll serve your purpose and arent really inexpensive.
I loved my JL 10's..They sounded amazing. I now have Boston subs I got for cheap that sound just as good. Check out craigslist and find a used sub if you're just looking for something cheap.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:Lanzar Max - they love small boxes, very inexpensive, and sound good.
this.
car audio noob since 1984.
Go with the lanzar of Fi
Rockford amps are good, the subs blow.
JL subs are somewhat overpriced, but you can get the same thing or even better w/ Fi.
One the bug gets ya, you will always want to go louder, I'd go with the Fi for the best money. The SSD can be either ported or sealed too, and doesn't take up much room.
Resonant Engineering subs, nuff said.
RE and Fi are basically the same woofers.
I THINK Fi is a sister company of RE, but Fi is cheaper..... and a reliable sub woofer. end of argument
I am really liking those FI subs.. they seem really nice!
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TheSundownFire wrote:Alpine Type-R. I like mine but I have a 15. The Alpine site says $200 but thats probably high. 500 watts RMS. Maybe I'm just partial because I have it but everyone else is listing what they have. They have great sound quality. I don't have any amp opinion though. Im partial to my Sundown but they dont have an amp that'll serve your purpose and arent really inexpensive.
I had an R-10 in my trunk before I got my 12's and It sounded great. Poor little thing is just sitting in the garage now...
Did I mention I drive a 2000 Lumina now?-----wigm-tuners.org member
alpine type r- i have a 10 right now in a ported box its great. i run 400rms to it and gets loud enough and hits clean....not like some other subs i've had audiobahn, fosgate.....
SLOCAV wrote:RE and Fi are basically the same woofers.
I THINK Fi is a sister company of RE, but Fi is cheaper..... and a reliable sub woofer. end of argument
Not the case. RE and Fi are not sister companies...RE and Sundown are...
Really i would suggest Fi to pretty much anyone going for some SPL...Except for the Q series, they are a pretty decent SQ sub
Here is a question...
When I was looking through FI Subs I came across the choice of a flatwind coil and copper coil... anyone care to explain the difference?
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The options on the subwoofers are made so that the woofer can handle more power sent to them.
I took this off a google search:
P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers.
Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less metal inside of the motor so it is a little weaker. If you are looking for a fart/burp only scenario for SPL we suggest that you do NOT get this option. Stick with only the P chamfer. Now if you are looking for a daily sub to beat on and you have 2000+ watts the BTL series is for you.
Flatwound coil (+$20) – The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit.
Daily or SPL: Simply put, if you plan on listening to any type of music you MUST choose the daily option. If it is strictly for a fart/burp scenario then choose the SPL option. The reason we have these options is the gap tolerances between the two are different. The gap in the SPL woofer is much tighter and FAR less forgiving in comparison to the Daily option. The Daily option simply gives the coil more wiggle room inside of the gap to deal with the non-linearity tendancys that you can get into when you are using a sub in a daily driving scenario. Typically SPL applications deal with 1 note and it does not change, therefore we can make the gap much tighter and get all of the motor strength that we can out of it.
Extreme Lead: ONLY choose this option if you plan to use the woofer for SPL ONLY applications. This option tends to yield really bad tinsel slap and rubs holes in the spiders (especially on the 10’s and 12’s) it is not intended on using in a daily driving scenario.
Universal: This option gives you the choice to later chance the impedence of your voice coils. You can change from dual 2’s to dual 1’s and vice versa by reconing them. If you do not choose this option your motor(s) will be optimized per the coil resistance that you have chosen. (Dual 2’s will forever be a dual 2 motor, Dual 1 will forever be a Dual 1 motor).
That should help you out, ask me if you have more questions
thanks alot!
anyone have any info on Alphasonik? I had them in the QBE and liked them as far as I remember...
I may go with a 12... I looked around and saw a very little difference in weight and box size requirements... that opens my options a bit...
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I think its between 250 and 300. But I am thinking a dedicated sub amp is the way I will go
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Any reason why? Or just you don't like them
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