so i have 2 12 inch kicker cvx's and a zx 1500.1 amp. recently, the subs would start cutting off and the amp would stay on but no go into protect mode..this confused me because ive never heard of a problem like this. then, my power light on my amp started to flicker on and off. now i cant even play my subs at all because they cut off as soon as the radio is turned on.. my gains are down low and i checked my power and ground wire and they seem fine.. the amp comes on when i turn on my radio so everything is still connected. but i just cant turn my system up any without some sort of cut out.... i have a yellow top optima battery as well....what could cause these problems???
check battery voltage with the vehicle on and off.
Make sure you have a clean tight ground on the battery and amp.
checked the voltage and it is fine...checked ground wire and it is tight and in good... tightened the cable on the battery and still having the same problems...if its not wiring, is it just faulty subs...but why would the amp flicker on and off sometimes???
I just read you post again. Its very possible your amp is FUBAR.
I would say check your wiring inside the box but I dont believe that would make your power light flicker.
Whats the amp stable at and what do you have it wired at?
did you check the remote wire? could be loose behind the radio. also i had this happen and i replaced the rcas and it solved the problem.
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I had a similar problem with one of my amps, come to find out is that the power lead terminal on the amp actually came unsoldered from the circuit board, I opened up the amp and re-soldered it and it still is working fine. this was a mtx amp though but it can happen to any a circuit board is basically the same as the next.
i dunno ill check all these problems.. this one guy that installs systems said that when the amp does that, it means one of the subs is about to go!!! im hoping thats not the case because i haven't had theses subs long and i bought them brand new...i mean its kicker they shouldn't be faulty...
Just because it is one brand of sub or another, doesn't mean it couldn't be faulty.
What coil config are your subs ? What brand headunit do you have ?
i had a similiar problem with my old system and it was my remote wire, try wiring it straight into your HU's power wire and maybe that will solve your problem
^ Add a switch to the remote wire if you do this. Other wise your amp will remain on at all times.
I have my remote wire running directly to battery with a switch inline to turn them on and off.
I highly doubt it is the subs. I am willing to bet your remote wire or ground are loose somewhere. If it isn't a wiring problem, I have got to say it's a loose connection on the board of the amp.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
^ Agreed. Unless the ohm load is to low. Kicker amps don't like 1ohm loads daily, unless it's an older model zx.
i have a 2 ohm load on the amp...the subs are dvc 2 ohm...so the load on the amp is fine....im hoping its the remote wire at this point.... if not ill check the board of the amp...thanks for the help!
and my head unit it a pyle....i think it stands for pyle of @!#$ because it is a crappy HU....im getting the alpine 9887 i think it is which is supposed to be the nicest alpine HU besides the touch screens....but i dont wanna get it until this problem is fixed
did you check the fuses?
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Try ground and relocate the remote turnon lead to see if it still does this. I had an eclipse that would cut out until I rerouted the remote turnon lead straight to battery with a switch inline.
To me wiring the remote wire direct and with a switch is taking away something. I hate doing a mod to a daily driver that takes away any kind of luxury or function. You now have to hit a switch every single time you want to listen, or shut it off... Instead of it being automatic. I would never recommend to someone I am doing an install for, or giving advice to, to wire a remote power lead direct.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
Depends on the application on wether it should be done.
Mearly for a test purpose to see if the amp still does the same thing, it is worth a try.
As mine is setup more for comps, this application works best for me. Especially when running multiple sub amps and etc.
could just do a quick test for the remote. take a wire and hook it up from the positive battery terminal on the amp to the remote terminal on the amp(atleast i think its the positive you hook it up to). instead of rewiring the whole thing to find out thats not the problem.
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