So I bought myself an 07 silverado LTZ with an extended cab a few months ago. Its got the Bose system, yippie (sarcasm). For the time being I am going to retain the stock HU and interior speakers. I just got a pair of Audiobahn DUB editions off ebay for a whopping $43. I then went to find my amps. Sadly, they aren't powerful enough to power the pair so I am going to get another amp. Obviously its best to get matching amps with matching subs. These will be going into a subthump box that sits under the back seat with .6cu/ft of space per side. Its been a while since I have done this, so bare with me.
sub specs
Audiobahn Dub1000
size - 10"
power - 600RMS
freq - 23Hz-500Hz
efficiency 91.1dB
voice coil - 2.5" dual 4Ohm
Input Impedance - 2/8Ohm
sub box specs
Subthump under seat dual 10" box
mounting depth: 5.75"
air space: .59ea.
downward floor firing
amp specs
Kenwood KAC-8152D
Max Power Output 1100 W
Rated Power Output (+B = 14.4 V)
(4 ¦¸) (20 Hz ¨C 200 Hz, 0.5 % THD) 300 W ¡Á 1
(2 ¦¸) (100 Hz, 0.9 % THD) 550 W ¡Á 1
Frequency Response (+0, ¨C3 dB) 5 Hz ¨C 200 Hz 5 Hz ¨C 200 Hz
Sensitivity (rated output) (MAX.) 0.2 V 0.2 V
Sensitivity (rated output) (MIN.) 5.0 V 5.0 V
Input Impedance 10 k¦¸ 10 k¦¸
Signal to Noise Ratio ¡Ü96 dB ¡Ü96 dB
Low Pass Filter Frequency (24 dB/oct.) 50 ¨C 200 Hz (variable) 50 ¨C 200 Hz (variable)
Infrasonic Filter Frequency (18 dB/oct.) 15 / 25 Hz 15 / 25 Hz
Phase Inverter 0¡ã (Normal) / 180¡ã (Reverse) 0¡ã (Normal) / 180¡ã (Reverse)
Bass Boost Circuit 0 ¨C 18 dB (variable) 0 ¨C 18 dB (variable)
Bass Boost Frequency 40 ¨C 100 Hz (variable) (KAC-8152D)
General
Operating Voltage 14.4 V (11 ¨C 16 V allowable)
Current Consumption 40 A
So I figure I will run the amp at 2 Ohm which would run the DVC's at their rated 4 Ohms. Would that be correct?
Obviously the single amp is not going to be able to push both subs without overheating, so I was going to purchase a second Kenwood amp, I found the same model online for $130. Being that I will be using the stock deck, I will be using the speaker level inputs on the amps. The amps also have a remote. I was curious if I could use a splitter and use just one remote.
I have an 80 A fuse that I got a long time ago, would that be enough for both amps running on 2 gauge wire and going to a distribution block and probably splitting to 4 gauge. Would that also be enough? Thanks.
Any other suggestions, comments, or concerns would be greatly appreciated! thanks!
First, your sub pair can be wired to 4 ohm or 1 ohm. Not 2 ohm. If you're going to run 2 identical amps, then you can wire each sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load.
Don't screw with the remote. Set your gains and leave it be. People like to start wanging with those and then the magic smoke comes out.
80 amp would be exactly what you need, and yes, that should be big enough power wire for the 2 amps. Either daisy chain the amp RCA's or use y splitters to feed them both off of the LOC.
The only reason why I wanted to use the remote was to be able to turn it down when I don't want to use it, late nites, driving up my street, etc etc etc.
that is what I was talking about, which I believe you are as well. Correct?
Most head units have a sub level control, turn it down on that. The cheaper amps use the "bass knob" as a gain knob, and that's not good.
Wiring just like that is perfect bro, exactly as I was saying.
noice
its the stock GM deck for now. Waiting for the clarion deck I want to come out and then funds to mount up again. lol
LOC will work well for you. Won't be the best or the cleanest, but will get you bumpin a little bit.
werd, and its built into the amp, so I don't even need an external. Then i can use the RCA line out to the other amp. Score
Go that route then. It'll be just a few wires to hook up.
I'm going to add another amp to the setup, for interior speakers, its a Kenwood KAC-X541
Audio Section........................................................................................................................................... KAC-X541
RMS Power Output (+B = 14.4 V, CEA-2006)
Normal (4 Ω/4ch) (1.0 % THD+N).............................................................................................................................................................................88 W
Normal (2 Ω/4ch) (1.0 % THD+N)..........................................................................................................................................................................124 W
Bridged (4 Ω/2ch) (1.0 % THD+N).................................................................................................................................................................270 W × 2
Dynamic Power (+B = 14.4 V, CEA-2006) .........................................................................................................................................................................100 W
Output Regulation (+B = 14.4 V, CEA-2006).........................................................................................................................................under 0.3 dB (4 Ω
Signal to Noise Ratio (CEA-2006).....................................................................................................................................................................76 dBA (W/4 Ω
Signal to Noise Ratio (Bypass) (CEA-2006) .................................................................................................................................................76 dBA (W/4 Ω
Low Pass Filter Frequency (24 dB/oct.) (B channel) ..................................................................................................................50 – 200 Hz (variable)
High Pass Filter Frequency (12 dB/oct.) ..........................................................................................................................................50 – 200 Hz (variable)
Infrasonic Filter Frequency (24 dB/oct.) (B channel)...................................................................................................................................................15 Hz
Frequency Response (+0, –3 dB)..........................................................................................................................................................................5 Hz – 70 kHz
Sensitivity (rated output) (MAX.) ............................................................................................................................................................................................0.2 V
Sensitivity (rated output) (MIN.) ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 5.0 V
Input Impedance ........................................................................................................................................................................................................
...................10 kΩ
It has two of its own fuses at 30amps a piece.
Does this mean I need to go from an 80amp fuse to 140amp?
Ok, sweet!
I've never had an amp with its own fuse before, let alone two of them, so this is all new to me.
Could I in theory not run any fuses at all from the battery and just let those fuses do the work instead? Is that not a good idea? Just curious, I already ordered the new one.
u want a fuse on the power wire to protect the wire, not your amp. in case of an accident if your power wire was pinched or shorted out without a fuse it could instantly melt and catch on fire, catch your carpet on fire and emit toxic fumes. fuse it.
and check the remote volume knob on the amp. some are used as a gain but some like the one on my kicker amps is just more or less a volume know. no harm is done with adjusting it and i personally find it way more nice the a headunit control. mine are mounted in the center console right where my hand is so i can easily adjust it withou having to reach for the headunit. if the knob is a gain type knob, then i agree to avoid it.
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