So, I have decided on walling the car off with 4 soundstream T4-12s....after much debate and research, I have decided on these subs....I got the owners manuals to them, and I ran across something weird that I was wondering if I might be able to run by you guys......soundstream actually says to staple 1" fiberglass insulation in the box if running a ported enclosure, like I will be...I am guessing this is to act like poly fill? Also, I have heard people coating the inside of the boxes with fiberglass resin, and heard of people just plain painting them and being done with it.....I guess what I am getting at here is....what do you guys recommend?? Thanks.
"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"
as long as u have em in the right enclosure, ull be ok. polyfill is retarded
FREE-DOM
tim moretz wrote:as long as u have em in the right enclosure, ull be ok. polyfill is retarded
Tell us why polyfill is retarded, he who is now dubbed Anton Jr.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
Poly fill soaks up standing waves. Even ported boxes have standing waves so I dont see an issue. Just make sure if you do it that you have that @!#$ held down well or your port velocity will shoot it out like crazy.
Personally I would go for using FG and resin. Just not resin. Also do 45s in your corners if you go slot ported. Or if you go for round ports, flare them.
Theres 1000 ways to build a box. Give us some more of what you are wanting to build the box like, and then someone can let you know whats best.
Well, I am looking into slot ported, tuned to either 34-35 HZ, car will be walled. I am thinking build a box for 2 subs, then another and stack them....I will do 45s in the corners...
Would you say that I could just forget about the insulation if I did resin and mat? Just so then I dont have to worry about how well its held down and it flying out...
How high would you build it, or how many layers I guess??
"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"
resin is used to smooth out the interior of the box (can often see small gains on the meter) and to seal up air leaks.
if the enclosures are square, I see absolutely no point in using FG for strength addition when building with MDF. MDF braces or all-thread are both easier in that respect, not to mention that FG does little on broad, flat panels in terms of strength addition. it's strength is in corners. but it really depends on how you want to build your box.
nothing wrong with polyfill in ported enclosures, but if this is a SPL car it will disrupt your airflow and potentially drop your score on the meter. maybe that isn't your goal, but it's worth mentioning.
in terms of SQ, polyfill can be your friend. even in ported enclosures. Richard Clark did a write up years ago showing this, and DIY home theater guys all do this as well.
at minimum I would double baffle the front, brace everything, and make sure the enclosures are bolted down. the more solid the enclosure, the better it will sound, and (very often) the better it will score on the meter. bracing is your friend. bracing without disrupting airflow (ie all-thread) is your friend on the TL.
33-35Hz for daily is fine. if you ever plan to compete, having a swappable, higher-tuned slot port would be a good way to help you on the meter.
GAM (The Kilted One) wrote: if you think you're that much better than them because you're "correct" I hope your progeny don't turn out as screwed up as yourself.
I have either 4 or 8 inch wide 4 inch long L brackets in my box. I cant remeber
Just waiting on the updates myself
